14 gauge wire

[Gregor 4,846]

I have looked high and low  for orange, 14 gauge, stranded copper wire. So far, with no luck. I Did find orange 14 gauge stranded, aluminum, copper clad wire. Will this work on tractors? I know these tractors don't use a lot of orange, but I'd like to keep wiring harnesses as close to original as possible. Copper clad aluminum OK?   Thanks Greg

[953 nut 55,315]

Considering the tendancy of aluminum wire to be britle and not stand up to vibration I would look at 12 guace copper.

[squonk 41,152]

https://www.mcmaster.com/wire/wire-7/

 

11 different colors including orange  Tin plated copper.

[Gregor 4,846]

I saw that, but I am wondering if it is like THHN, as used for 110V wiring. What does tin plated mean?

[ZXT 2,401]

Stick with copper. Aluminum has a lower ampacity, tends to corrode, fatigues easier, etc. 

 

There's a reason it was never used for this application. It was used in houses for a short period, and many (if not most) of those houses have had close calls or they have burnt to the ground.

Plus, CCA just screams cheap speaker wire to me. What kind of insulation does this wire have?

Edited July 24, 2021 by ZXT

[squonk 41,152]

6 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I saw that, but I am wondering if it is like THHN, as used for 110V wiring. What does tin plated mean?

I'm sure it's just like THHH. It will work fine. The insulation is even more abrasion resistant than automotive primary wire.

 

Tin plating keeps the copper from corroding. 

Edited July 24, 2021 by squonk

[ZXT 2,401]

3 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I saw that, but I am wondering if it is like THHN, as used for 110V wiring. What does tin plated mean?

Tin plated wire solders easier and helps with corrosion. 

 

VW1 wire (what Mike linked) is flame rated. I've never had any in my hand, but I would assume it to have fairly thick insulation and wouldn't bend as easily as THHN, but I don't see that being an issue with 14 gauge wire. 

[peter lena 8,634]

@Gregor  agree with others above on the copper wire application , another thing I  always do on any wiring improvement / change, is to reroute and also use cable wrap on all my wiring , along with added support . why not eliminate  , reroute tight / chafing wiring while you are there ?  especially on those multiple connectors , dielectric grease , if you want too, if my ideas upset you , do what ever you want , pete

[peter lena 8,634]

@Gregor,  cable wrap is available at many areas , my go to containment /  protection for all my wiring on rewire issues. also add the nylon cable screw on clamps to enhance your improvement , just an idea , pete,  https://www.amazon.com/spiral-cable-wrap/s?k=spiral+cable+wrap

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

I like the spiral wrap too, and there's also this corrugated split loom.  A little easier to apply than the spiral wrap:

 

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=split+wire+loom&i=tools&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

 

The spiral wrap is also available in colors as is the corrugated stuff:

 

 

Auto stores, Big Box, and Tractor Supply typically have it on the shelf.  Usually not the colors though, just black.

 

And never, ever, use aluminum wire in any application subject to vibration!

 

Something to know about THHN and the like that have the clear plastic insulation over the regular insulation...  that clear plastic outer cover is NOT resistant to UV light.  If it gets any significant sunlight exposure it WILL turn yellowy, dry out and crack and fall off in little pieces.  Many a ham radio operator knows this!  THHN is great wiring for stringing a dipole antenna but you will start finding the 'molt' pieces on the ground in your yard in about six months.  On a tractor probably not a big problem though.  THHN isn't as finely stranded though and should only be used where vibration is somewhat minimal.

 

Edited July 24, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[pfrederi 17,741]

My local auto parts store has a rotating rack of wire 10-18 ga many colors...including Orange

[peter lena 8,634]

@Jeff-C175  agree with you on the split wrap also, often when correcting / upgrading a problem , I  find related areas that  also need a touch up , and make that area better also . have small springs on the pulled cable point , carb / choke area , that have really helped smooth out the cable pull point ,  just the increased pull and lubrication on that cable makes it work with little effort . do not mean to freak out anyone with my modification to this frequent drag point , works very easily with no binding , pete 

 

[roadapples 6,983]

Agree with Pete. Use dielectric grease on  "all" connections....