transmission belt spring

[Andrea 20]

Hello to all, I have recently owned a 210-4. I bought the vehicle in a country market and it was partially disassembled. I cleaned and rearranged everything, including the engine, but I have a problem with a spring that was released. In detail it is the spring of the belt tensioner. I can't figure out where the side shown in the picture is connected. The manual indicates that it is connected in an "opening in the frame", but I cannot find it or understand which one it is .... can you help me with a photo or with a precise indication?

Under the seat I have 3 holes, 2 square and one circular. For now I have connected the spring in the circular one, but in my opinion it is absolutely too tight. So I think it's the wrong opening.

I

cannot solve the my last problem, which is the fact that the brake / clutch pedal moves back and forth while driving. I think it is a belt tension or belt tensioner problem with worn bearings ... something related to belt tension, but first I would like to understand where that spring is connected on the frame.

Does anyone also have a diagram of the drive drive belt or a photo of the underside? 

 

Thanks in advance for the help you will provide me

 

[Andrea 20]

Sorry...this is the vehicle and the serial number.

[Achto 27,618]

1 hour ago, Andrea said:

which is the fact that the brake / clutch pedal moves back and forth while driving.

 

I am not real familiar with the vertical shaft engine models, sorry. As the tensioner compensates for the the belt tension, it will cause the brake/clutch peddle to move back & forth some. I don't believe it will be an issue unless you are seeing an lot of movement in the peddle, like more than 13mm of movement. 

[Andrea 20]

Thank you for the reply Achto.

This is the video of the problem.

[rmaynard 15,519]

The 210-4 is not a popular model over here, but we do have all the manuals in our manual section. There are apparently several holes in the frame that allow you adjust the tension until the clutch and brake work properly. Good luck.

 

 

[Achto 27,618]

1 hour ago, Andrea said:

This is the video of the problem.

 

That does seem excessive. I suggest checking the tension pulley, make sure that the bearing is in good shape. Also look the belt over good to see is there is a spot that has wear.

[rjg854 11,387]

I'm not familiar with that model of tractor, but let me be the 1st to say 

[Andrea 20]

39 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

That does seem excessive. I suggest checking the tension pulley, make sure that the bearing is in good shape. Also look the belt over good to see is there is a spot that has wear.

 

tonight after work I try to follow your suggestion !

[Andrea 20]

1 hour ago, rmaynard said:

The 210-4 is not a popular model over here, but we do have all the manuals in our manual section. There are apparently several holes in the frame that allow you adjust the tension until the clutch and brake work properly. Good luck.

 

 

Tank you.....but i found the regulation hole in the idler arm....but i can't identify the correct hole on the frame for the other side of the spring.. In the diagram there's nothing that helps me...On the frem, in the right side, i have two squared hole and a circular hole (under the seat) ...but i suspect that this aperture was created for a particular attachment...

 

 

1 hour ago, rmaynard said:

 

 

[rmaynard 15,519]

Take a look at this video. It is for a 210-5, but I think the clutch/brake is the same. Fast forward to 33:22 and you will see the spring. It appears to just go straight back. and possibly hook on the end of the frame. 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAayv7iq3wc

 

 

Edited July 21, 2021 by rmaynard

[Andrea 20]

I have watched this video hundreds of times in the last 2 days ... but the mystery remains

when in doubt I leave the spring in the circular hole that I use now .... I try to decrease the tension with the eccentric and check if the problem is reduced

 

[rjg854 11,387]

@squonk any ideas on this?

[ranger 1,758]

Welcome to Red Square.

I don’t know anything about these models but, I would look first at the belt, is it the original? Was it still fitted when you bought the horse? Belts tend to acquire a ‘set’ when left under tension for an extended period, instead of the belt being a relatively even ‘loop’, it could have, 1, 2, or 3 smaller radii set in where it has sat around the pulleys. These could cause the symptoms you are experiencing, especially if the belt tension is low. Auto tyres can develop a ‘Flat’ spot when left parked for a long time without being driven, and then ‘Rumble’ and vibrate until the rubber softens and regain their original ‘Shape’ with use. Perhaps try a new belt, (if available) or assuming pulleys and bearings are ok, just give it a good run and see if it improves. 

 

Doug.

[Andrea 20]

42 minutes ago, ranger said:

Welcome to Red Square.

I don’t know anything about these models but, I would look first at the belt, is it the original? Was it still fitted when you bought the horse? Belts tend to acquire a ‘set’ when left under tension for an extended period, instead of the belt being a relatively even ‘loop’, it could have, 1, 2, or 3 smaller radii set in where it has sat around the pulleys. These could cause the symptoms you are experiencing, especially if the belt tension is low. Auto tyres can develop a ‘Flat’ spot when left parked for a long time without being driven, and then ‘Rumble’ and vibrate until the rubber softens and regain their original ‘Shape’ with use. Perhaps try a new belt, (if available) or assuming pulleys and bearings are ok, just give it a good run and see if it improves. 

 

Doug.

 

I remove the traction belt an i find this.......Tank you for your help. But the question now  is....what are the exact spec of the belt for the 210-4  ?

On the pdf linked above the only data is transmission drive belt 91,7" (2,329 meters). I made a mesurement and i find 2,31 meters that is 90,945 " . I'm confused.... this is a flat belt, but i suppose that the original belt is a V belt....

 

[Andrea 20]

I found the correct Belt -> https://www.vbeltguys.com/products/111435-wheel-horse-oem-equivalent-dry-kevlar-v-belt

 

tomorrow I will go to a local vendor to see if it is available ... although I have some doubts that they have belts with measurements in inches in stock ...

[ranger 1,758]

56 minutes ago, Andrea said:

I found the correct Belt -> https://www.vbeltguys.com/products/111435-wheel-horse-oem-equivalent-dry-kevlar-v-belt

 

tomorrow I will go to a local vendor to see if it is available ... although I have some doubts that they have belts with measurements in inches in stock ...

When you visit your local vendor, show him the information from vbeltguys. He should be able to supply the correct type and size of belt. Most belts I’ve bought show the section, A,B,C, whatever, then the ‘Inch’ size, eg, C65, then the equivalent ‘Metric’ size. 

 

Doug.

[Andrea 20]

ok guys. I replaced both the drive belt and the cutting system belt. The pedal movement problem has been solved, I have greased everything, and even in terms of noise the situation has improved a lot. Tomorrow I will do the first test drive! I will update you as soon as completed.

[rmaynard 15,519]

Glad to hear that.

[Andrea 20]

unsatisfactory first test. I didn't sharpen the knives, the grass was tall and very wet ... in any case the engine seemed to me to be totally under pressure, on the verge of turning off. Raising the disc the situation improved, but the engine revs were very low. Tomorrow I will try to sharpen the knives, and I will cut the lawn with the forage harvester ... I will try the wheel horse again when it is no more than 10 cm high and very dry. I am attaching a video where you hear a very annoying noise. I don't know if it's normal or if it's a problem. In addition, the gearbox often gets stuck in the current gear. At that point I switch off and the gearbox unlocks allowing me to engage the desired gear ... what could this defect derive from?

 

I link a video from my youtube -> https://youtu.be/c7MpZHr6sBE

Edited July 28, 2021 by Andrea

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,052]

At the 36 second mark the drive belt appears to be running over a vertical pin. It should be on the other side of that pin I think.

 

Garry

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,052]

[Andrea 20]

5 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

 

 

 

I changed the route of the belt, thank you very much for the observation. Unfortunately the noise problem persists. The noise is only there when I release the brake / clutch pedal. With the pedal fully down, I feel nothing. I'm starting to think it might be the belt tensioner pulley ..

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

4 minutes ago, Andrea said:

the noise problem

 

What's it sound like?  a low 'grumbling' sound?  How's the pulley feel when you turn by hand?  Should be smooth and no noise.

 

[Andrea 20]

7 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

What's it sound like?  a low 'grumbling' sound?  How's the pulley feel when you turn by hand?  Should be smooth and no noise.

 

 

 

apparently no backlash on either the under engine pulley or the gearbox pulley ... but the tensioner pulley appears to have some backlash on the bearing.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

18 minutes ago, Andrea said:

no backlash

 

Not sure what you mean by 'backlash' Andrea,  could this be interpreted to mean 'resistance to turning' ?

 

That idler pulley should freely turn with no resistance.  Smoothly and without any noise or 'rough' feeling.