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Zeek

LED Power Supply Electrical Advice Needed

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Zeek
14 hours ago, rjg854 said:

I have led lights in my horse barn, and since then I have static on the radio. Is there a cure for this? 

 

I think it depends on the lights. Some do not do that (my entire garage is 4' LED bars), but others do like my Harley Halo headlight. It kills the radio unless the signal is very strong. I'll tell you what I bought that does not work . . . these ferrite rings.  I put a few in the wiring behind the headlight as instructed. Zero difference, but I like the headlight more than the radio so it stays. I don't know that they won't work for you. For $9 is why I gave it a shot.

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Jeff-C175
14 hours ago, rjg854 said:

I have led lights in my horse barn, and since then I have static on the radio. Is there a cure for this? 

 

Not to drift the thread, but generally the cure is to move the radio antenna further from the lights.  The cheap LED power supplies that they use are not filtered well and cause all sorts of interference issues.  There was a thread dealing with this a while ago I believe.

 

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Jeff-C175
3 minutes ago, Zeek said:

Some do not do that

 

Basically you get what you pay for.  The better engineered units cost more and in most cases are better filtered.  But price is no guarantee.  Be thankful you are not a ham radio operator!

 

 

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Jeff-C175
47 minutes ago, Zeek said:

 

Ferrite can be tricky to get right.

 

There are MANY MANY different 'mixes' of the material, and each different mix has different properties as to the frequencies that they suppress.  Unless one is well versed in selecting those cores, they would likely not end up with the correct ones.

 

And, in many cases, it's just the wrong approach!  But tech support is given a script to read from because they really don't care if you fix the problem or not, they just want to get you off the phone and email and 'close the ticket'.

 

By the way,  did you loop the wiring through the core multiple times?  The more loops you put the wire through, the more inductance is added, and theoretically the better they will function.  But, they do have to be the correct 'mix' of ferrite to work well.

 

 

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Jeff-C175

@Zeek

 

Here's the reply from USLed:

 

Quote

Hi Jeff sorry but I do not have a data sheet for the module you have but attached is the replacement.

You can purchase these from Neon Engineering 800 582 9024.

 

Right Light 3-Up Red - DataSheet.pdf

 

Neon Engineering website:  https://neisls.com/

 

Edited by Jeff-C175

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WHX??
17 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

won't be able to retrieve it since I'm retiring

Looks like you ain't going nowhere then till Zeek gets his lighting groove on!  Best just unretire for a couple more years then! :ychain:

 

I have the same problem in shop at work and the H barn RJG.

Ended up getting an Alexa & running music off the shop 'puter via bluetooth speaker. 

Edited by WHX??
  • Haha 1

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Zeek
1 hour ago, Jeff-C175 said:

@Zeek

 

Here's the reply from USLed:

 

 

Right Light 3-Up Red - DataSheet.pdf 473.87 kB · 0 downloads

 

Neon Engineering website:  https://neisls.com/

 

So I'm not expert, but by my calculations if I have 37 modules at 1.5 watts @ 12v I should need about a 5 amp (4.625) power supply correct?

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Jeff-C175
53 minutes ago, Zeek said:

So I'm not expert, but by my calculations if I have 37 modules at 1.5 watts @ 12v I should need about a 5 amp (4.625) power supply correct?

 

I'm not sure what the difference is between the "Module Level Power" or the "System Level Power" but note that it is stated in Watts/Foot, and below it shows that there are TWO MODULES per FOOT.  So that's a start

 

If you then look at the POWER SUPPLY AND LOADING SPECS, they are basically giving you the FOOTAGE and that the 60W PSB-1-12-60 supply can run a minimum of 5 feet (10 modules) or a maximum of 46 feet (92 modules).

 

If you divide the  60 Watts the supply can deliver by the 1.3 W/foot you come up with 46 feet, and 2 modules / foot = 92 modules.

 

If you have a half decent multimeter you should be able to measure the current to confirm this.  Power the letter with the battery such as you have already done and set your multimeter up to measure AMPS in say a 10 AMP range, and connect the meter in series with the power.

 

https://www.electronics-notes.com/articles/test-methods/meters/how-to-measure-current.php

 

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Zeek

@Jeff-C175 I reached out to Neisis. They don't stock that LED. They are a wholesaler and only sell to electricians (businesses) or sign shops. I said okay, get that, give me the price so I can have it ordered through a business locally (I need six and I don't know if they are a $1 or $20 a piece). They said "We cannot give out pricing until an order is received. We do not carry these in stock and they would have to be drop shipped. Any business would have to be set up in our system once approved." So in essence a big pain in the rear and makes it pretty much impossible. My guess is they get them directly from US LED who I'm sure has the same policy  :angry-cussingwhite:

 

What a pain for something so simple . . .

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Jeff-C175
8 minutes ago, Zeek said:

What a pain for something so simple . . .

 

I was afraid you would run into something like that... I'm gonna take a 'look round' and see what I can find, standby...

 

Their website doesn't work on my antiquated browser, but go to SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM and search for "LINEAR MODULES".  I'm looking at one on my work computer which is white but I'm sure they have RED and they are TWO leds per module.  A pack of TWENTY modules is 12.95!

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
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Zeek

Thanks I'll check that out.

 

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Jeff-C175
9 minutes ago, Zeek said:

Thanks I'll check that out.

 

 

Take a look at SMCC-WR4-12V-20PK

 

That's got 4 LED per module

 

Crap, I just noticed that it says they are out of stock on those... but I bet if you look around you will find something that will work.  As long as it's a 12 V module, you can make it work.

 

Let me know if I can help further!

 

They have the Meanwell 12V 60W supplies for $25

 

The RGB modules are pretty slick, you could convert the whole sign to RGB and use one of their Bluetooth controllers with a smartphone... or an RF wireless controller with a remote... all kindsa cool tricks to play!

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
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Zeek

I think I found what I need on fleabay LED Modules

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Jeff-C175
1 hour ago, Zeek said:

I think I found what I need on fleabay LED Modules

 

Those look good and the price is right!

 

I might be tempted to buy three or four a replace them all!

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lynnmor
On 7/29/2021 at 6:07 PM, rjg854 said:

I have led lights in my horse barn, and since then I have static on the radio. Is there a cure for this? 

Some led lamps have a voltage regulator built into each lamp, that regulator can cause radio and TV interference.  RV owners have had that problem for years and many buy expensive bulbs to reduce the problem.  I chose a different solution and bought the real cheap ones that have no regulator.  The unregulated ones are said to have a reduced life, but I have had no problems and if they do fail they cost little to replace.  Barn size lamps may not be available without regulation, I don't know.

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dodge78
On 7/29/2021 at 5:07 PM, rjg854 said:

I have led lights in my horse barn, and since then I have static on the radio. Is there a cure for this? 

Most of the time its a ground problem.  Make sure the fixtures are grounded.

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Jeff-C175
3 hours ago, dodge78 said:

Most of the time its a ground problem.  Make sure the fixtures are grounded.

 

That's what the manufacturer tech support is trained to tell you.  They will never admit fault with their devices and shift the blame to the consumer.

 

Don't fall for it, it's not true.

 

In SOME cases it may be true if the device is incorrectly installed, but if it's wired to code, it IS grounded.

 

Saying that MOST of the time it's a ground problem is incorrect.  There are millions and millions of devices that are properly installed and grounded and still contribute to the electromagnetic fog that plagues users of RF devices.

 

@lynnmor calls them 'voltage regulators', I call them 'switching power supplies', and they are notoriously poorly designed.  They RADIATE the interference into the airwaves just like a radio transmitter and also CONDUCT the interference into the AC wiring which feeds it into the affected receivers.  The AC wiring also radiates the interference.

 

It's not as simple as a bad ground,  almost NEVER in fact.

Edited by Jeff-C175

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rjg854

The only way these are grounded is through the neutral leg. They're a two wire cord fixture. There's no other, quote, ground wire.

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Jeff-C175
5 hours ago, rjg854 said:

The only way these are grounded is through the neutral leg. They're a two wire cord fixture. There's no other, quote, ground wire.

 

Which means that the device is inherently 'double insulated' and there s no way to ground it externally because none of the 'touchable' surfaces are connected to any of the electrical parts and can't become energized and pose a shock hazard to the user.  This type of device actually does use the neutral as a pseudo ground.

Edited by Jeff-C175

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dodge78

Let me rephrase that,  in the cases I have fixed, it was a faulty ground.  Including running a ground on a 2 wire system.

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rjg854
8 hours ago, dodge78 said:

Let me rephrase that,  in the cases I have fixed, it was a faulty ground.  Including running a ground on a 2 wire system.

What should I be looking for?

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Jeff-C175
1 hour ago, rjg854 said:

What should I be looking for?

 

Just my opinion here, but I feel that trying to rig up some sort of 'extra' ground wire would be a complete waste of time.

 

Your time would be better spent moving the radio, but particularly the antenna, further away from the lights if possible.

 

While it's not always a guarantee, the more expensive light fixtures are 'generally' better engineered and may not cause as much interference.

 

Edited by Jeff-C175

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dodge78
12 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

While it's not always a guarantee, the more expensive light fixtures are 'generally' better engineered and may not cause as much interference.

 

I completely agree, but sometimes you have to try to fix what you have.

What kind of bulbs were added to the barn? T8 or screw in type?

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rjg854

PXL_20210810_160530303.jpg.39bb4d1a973d2031e63d6ccb19e97d39.jpg

They're a strip light, about 3/4" wide about 42" long. They can plug in end to end or with a short cord between units. I realize they're a cheap fixture, but they light up the area nicely. I only have static on certain stations when they're on. It's not that big a deal. I was just inquiring if there might have been a cure. Thanks.

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