Kohler M12 - Bearing Plate Removal

[TC10284 111]

I am trying to replace the bearing plate on my Kohler M12. I have removed all the bolts that I can see and I can wiggle and wobble the plate, but I cannot pull it off.

 

Am I missing something? 

[JAinVA 4,619]

You are not missing anything. The 4 bolts are all there is.  Contrary to the manuals this plate can be difficult to remove. Since it is FUBAR  knock it off with a hammer.

Edited June 30, 2021 by JAinVA

[Gregor 4,846]

You don't say why you want the plate off. Are you doing a rebuild on the motor? If so, maybe you can disconnect the rod, and drive the crank out from the PTO side, bringing the bearing plate with it. Just a thought.

[pfrederi 17,739]

You have to use a puller using the mounting holes for the stator.  i had to buy some really long 10-24 bolts to get it hooked up

 

 

 

[TC10284 111]

6 hours ago, Gregor said:

You don't say why you want the plate off. Are you doing a rebuild on the motor? If so, maybe you can disconnect the rod, and drive the crank out from the PTO side, bringing the bearing plate with it. Just a thought.

 

The ignition coil mount is broken. 

[TC10284 111]

OK, so I have an option of a hammer and using a puller. I have the puller, but would probably have to get some long 10-24 bolts, as mentioned. 

Can anything not on the bearing plate be damaged if it was more forcefully pulled off (aside from being careful with the stator)? 

Edited June 30, 2021 by TC10284

[ranger 1,750]

Have you tried gently warming the plate around the bearing? Use a hot air gun, hair drier, or even boiling water. Thats how I always used to remove the crankshaft bearings on the old British motorcycle engines back in the day!

[squonk 41,118]

Grab a 1/4" threaded rod to use with you puller. No searching for extra long bolts

[pfrederi 17,739]

8 minutes ago, squonk said:

Grab a 1/4" threaded rod to use with you puller. No searching for extra long bolts

 

 

The Magnum  stator mounting bolt holes are 10 -24.  All thread would work

[richmondred01 2,237]

Confirming pfrederi statements,

additionally remove the starter and it will be more manageable.

Be careful removing the starter keeping it together. Last thing you want is fool with the brush springs. 
  

 

[TC10284 111]

OK, so I got the bearing plate off with a little effort from a short prying tool. Nothing was damaged thankfully. 

 

My next issue/question is:

The bearing assembly did not come off with the plate. The replacement plate I have has this bearing assembly in it. Which is easiest to remove, or what is the best way to handle that situation? 

 

Also, I see what you mean about removing the starter. It came apart even though I tried hard to keep it together, and yes, I am going to have to fool with brush springs. I didn't lose any parts to it though. Any tips for that?  

[TC10284 111]

[oliver2-44 9,750]

On 6/30/2021 at 8:23 PM, TC10284 said:

 

Also, I see what you mean about removing the starter. It came apart even though I tried hard to keep it together, and yes, I am going to have to fool with brush springs. I didn't lose any parts to it though. Any tips for that?  

the Kohler manual shows how to make a little simple sheet metal jig to hold the brushes for reassembly. It works great

[TC10284 111]

On 7/1/2021 at 11:31 PM, oliver2-44 said:

the Kohler manual shows how to make a little simple sheet metal jig to hold the brushes for reassembly. It works great 

 

Thanks! 

Any advice on removing that bearing assembly off the crank? 

Edited July 4, 2021 by TC10284

[squonk 41,118]

Something similar to this

 

:

 

 

Edited July 2, 2021 by squonk

[TC10284 111]

Got the bearing assembly off and the replacement bearing/bearing plate installed. I need to get the flywheel back on and then the starter brushes reset and then reinstalled. 

[richmondred01 2,237]

If you replaced the bearing plate then you will need to replace the seal and shims and make sure that your crank end play is

between .003-.020.

then torque to 35 foot pounds. 

Edited July 8, 2021 by richmondred01

[TC10284 111]

6 hours ago, richmondred01 said:

If you replaced the bearing plate then you will need to replace the seal and shims and make sure that your crank end play is

between .010-.020.

then torque to 35 foot pounds. 

 

I'm new to going this deep inside a Kohler. Can you point me to the seal and shims? Also, what do I need to check the crank end play? 

 

The torque part is no problem. 

[richmondred01 2,237]

I’m away from my shop right now. Once I get there I’ll take some photos and explain the process.

[pfrederi 17,739]

Have you downloaded the Magnum Service manual??

 

The shims come in the gasket set for engine.

 

 

 

 

 

[richmondred01 2,237]

Feeler gauge the last photo .003-.020

adjustments to the aforementioned gap is done via the white paper shims. 
I personally like to get all my rebuilds around .010-.012. 
If you didn’t check this I recommend you do. The pan will need to be removed. Chances are you will also need a new pan gasket.

If are aren’t within the .003-.020 tolerance you will need to pull the bearing plate and correct the situation.

The black gasket is used closest to the block. 
*** note*** The magnum bearing plate is torqued to 115 inch pounds whereas the the k plate is 35 foot pounds

All the best. 

Edited July 8, 2021 by richmondred01

[TC10284 111]

Thanks! 

Neither of my bearing plates have that little V shaped thing where the seal goes, neither does the original seal. 

 

I'm assuming they made two different kinds? 

[richmondred01 2,237]

20 minutes ago, TC10284 said:

Thanks! 

Neither of my bearing plates have that little V shaped thing where the seal goes, neither does the original seal. 

 

I'm assuming they made two different kinds? 

Yes.

I had a k plate and gasket available for the photo. 

The Magum does not have the notch around the cam pin. 
The magnum also gets torqued to 115 inch pounds opposed to 35 foot pounds for the K series.

Here’s what the Magnum shim looks like.
 

 

Edited July 8, 2021 by richmondred01

[TC10284 111]

I didn't have one of the gaskets that came off, just the shims and three of those. Two are good. Or appear to be. 

I found them on isavetractors 

I'll have to loosen the bearing plate. I went with the 35 ft lbs figure. Luckily I haven't put it back together yet. 

Edited July 8, 2021 by TC10284

[richmondred01 2,237]

The black one is thicker and is the gasket.

Ask Norman if he has the black gasket. 
You may want to get the pan gasket too.