Brakechute 1 #1 Posted June 23, 2021 Hello all... having issues with a recently resurrected 18 Automatic and hoping someone can point me in the right direction. New fluid (ATF) and filter in it, the old fluid looked aerated/water contaminated. The fluid is full but still has a slightly aerated/contaminated look to it, I assume from what didn't drain out. Tractor moves reasonably well going forward, barely crawls and has no power in reverse. When first starting off forward the pump makes a little whine - almost a squeak - as it starts moving, no noise in reverse. I ran it up against a tree to see if it would break traction and the pump screamed like I was killing it and didn't spin tires on packed dirt. I can push it with the tow valve closed, it has a little more resistance than with the valve open, but still moves easier than it should. I can stand on the 3-pt and it moves me (220# or so) up and down effortlessly with no noises from the pump. I assume I shouldn't be able to move it with tow valve shut, so that's an issue. Does the pump have to come apart to address this valve? Is there anything that I should/could check and possibly service with the pump in the tractor that could account for any of this? Hoping for a little insight from someone who's been there -- life's too short to make all of the mistakes yourself Thanks in advance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,866 #2 Posted June 23, 2021 This manual has several diagnostic tables. Did it ever work correctly was this a sudden onset or slowly developed??? Could be the charge pump check valve spring. Do you have access to a hydraulic pressure gauge? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brakechute 1 #3 Posted June 23, 2021 The last time it was in regular use was early 2000s. At that time it was strong... used it to plow snow (modified truck plow) and move non-running vehicles, trailers, etc. around as needed. Then I was not around for a few years, it got stuck behind the shed and forgotten about. Just pulled it out recently, got it running and now the hydro is acting up. The lift cylinders seemed strong enough so I have not built a test gauge yet, but it shouldn't be a problem to do so. I did go through that manual before posting, but couldn't find a guess that applied to my situation... weak and noisy... so I figured I'd tell my story and hope it sounded familiar to someone before I take the whole thing apart as I am not at all familiar with them. I did see a few very detailed posts about reworking them, but was hoping for something less invasive. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,866 #4 Posted June 24, 2021 Do the charge pump test first. If you want PM me your address i will loan you a hydro test gauge set up. My D200 is a couple years newer but used 10w-30 from new. Are you sure yours had ATF before?? Either one works but mixing them is not good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
