charger 12 not charging

[tallen4392 69]

Does anyone know if and where my charger 12  may have a fuse for the charging system ???

[pfrederi 17,635]

No fuse originally.  You should see 13.5 or greater DC when running if not switch your multimeter to AC and test the two white leads coming from the engine to the regulator.  Should have at least 30 VAC running at full throttle.

[Achto 27,498]

If you have 30 volts AC from the two wires on the stator and less than 13 volts DC at the battery while running. Then first make sure that your regulator body has a good ground to the tractor and that the DC charging wire from the regulator to the switch is in good shape. If the ground and the charging wire check out, then I would suggest a new regulator

 

The above is all providing that you have a Bendix style starter and the charging stator is under the fly wheel.

 

If you have an early model with a starter/gen then we will have to move on to the procedure's to test that. 

 

Edited June 18, 2021 by Achto

[seuadr 488]

does that make it just a 12?

[Achto 27,498]

5 minutes ago, seuadr said:

does that make it just a 12?

 

Some of the 1968 Chargers and Raiders used left over engines from '67. These would still have a starter/gen on them.

[seuadr 488]

1 hour ago, Achto said:

 

Some of the 1968 Chargers and Raiders used left over engines from '67. These would still have a starter/gen on them.

I meant cause it isn't charging so it isn't a charger. 😄

[Achto 27,498]

3 hours ago, seuadr said:

I meant cause it isn't charging so it isn't a charger. 😄

 

    I guess some times it's gotta snow twice before I catch a drift.

Edited June 19, 2021 by Achto

[tallen4392 69]

If I jump it with a jump box it starts but as soon as I unhook a jumper cable it dies out I would think it should stay running right 

[Achto 27,498]

12 minutes ago, tallen4392 said:

If I jump it with a jump box it starts but as soon as I unhook a jumper cable it dies out I would think it should stay running right 

 

If you have a battery ignition, (automotive style coil) battery power is required to keep it running.

Do you have 12vdc at the battery? If you do, check your battery cables to the battery connection. A bad connection may be your issue.

[pfrederi 17,635]

Have you load tested the battery????

 

So many electrical problems reported here ultimately  stem from a bad ground or a weak battery.....

Edited June 19, 2021 by pfrederi

[tallen4392 69]

Here is my thinking the battery is dead from sitting since jan. so if I jump it  should it stay running just like a car would . it has a coil like a car .Once it starts if it is charging it should keep it running correct ???

[tallen4392 69]

The cables are new and tight ..

[pfrederi 17,635]

22 hours ago, tallen4392 said:

Here is my thinking the battery is dead from sitting since jan. so if I jump it  should it stay running just like a car would . it has a coil like a car .Once it starts if it is charging it should keep it running correct ???

If the battery is dead then when you remove the jump pack the dead battery is absorbing all the output from the stator, not enough left to power the coil. 

 

Either get a new battery or put this one on a charger for an extended period then load test it.

[squonk 41,010]

22 hours ago, tallen4392 said:

Here is my thinking the battery is dead from sitting since jan. so if I jump it  should it stay running just like a car would . it has a coil like a car .Once it starts if it is charging it should keep it running correct ???

These charging systems will put out 15 amps at the most. A car back in the 70's would have 30+ . Nowadays 100 amps are minimum. do what Paul said!

[tallen4392 69]

There is only two white wire going to to the reg looks like one is missing from the starter switch.. Pulled the  switch and if I am reading the diagram right there should be a terminal marked r  but there is not.. Anyone know what color the wire would be and it looks like it goes to a safety switch than the reg.. Don't know what the last owner did with the other wire strange

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026]

The regulator has 3 terminals?

There are later models that used a 2-wire regulator.

What are the other terminals on the ignition switch labelled as? Some are not correct and some have the identifier stamped into the terminal.

 

Garry

[tallen4392 69]

I traced the wires from the switch one black ends up at the coil ..one goes to the starter solenoid.. one has a factory fuse that goes to the light switch light green goes to amp gauge and there is a orange  wire rolled up and not going anywhere looks factory like that  that's all 5 wires  The reg has 3 terminals on it correct only two are used and go to the engine  weird setup 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026]

Are you using this wiring diagram?

Do you have the ignition switch shown? It has 4 key positions OFF, RUN with LIGHTS, RUN, START

[tallen4392 69]

Yes same same ign switch and wiring

[tallen4392 69]

The only wire not hooked up is the orange wire looks like it has been like that forever it is not a hot wire  I would think a hot wire should be hooked to the reg but there r no wires hanging down there 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026]

37 minutes ago, tallen4392 said:

I traced the wires from the switch

1 one black ends up at the coil ..IGNITION

2 one goes to the starter solenoid..START

3 one has a factory fuse that goes to the light switch LIGHTS

4 light green goes to amp gauge BATTERY

5 a orange  wire rolled up and not going anywhere looks factory like that  

that's all 5 wires  

The reg has 3 terminals on it correct only two are used and go to the engine  weird setup 

 

Add a wire from the regulator DC+ terminal to the R terminal on the switch. That should make it work.

With the key in the RUN position and the engine NOT running you should have battery voltage at the regulator DC+ terminal.

If so the charging system should work. If the voltage increase after it starts it is charging.

 

Here is the function chart for your switch

 

 

[tallen4392 69]

That is the problem there is no r on the ign switch I can tap into a wire and make it work 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026]

What are the terminals labeled as then if there is no R.

You may have a different switch. They all look alike but the terminal locations make the difference and the way they function.

The original body that holds the 5 wires at the ignition switch has a unique shape. A single terminal and 2 pairs below it. That is the only thing that is common between most switches. Viewing the switch from the rear that single terminal is a good reference so we are all taking the same language.

Here is the same switch with 3 key positions.

 

 

Garry

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026]

22 minutes ago, tallen4392 said:

That is the problem there is no r on the ign switch I can tap into a wire and make it work 

The only available terminal is the I (eye) terminal but may overload the switch under continuous use. With an R terminal the current is shared between the I and the B terminals.

[tallen4392 69]

I hooked the orange wire from the switch that was not hooked up.to anything... Hot in the run position now it is charging like it should 13.5 volts at the battery at 1/2 throttle..Thanks for all the help hopefully it will continue to work...