Thoroo 1 #1 Posted June 18, 2021 Hi, My wheel horse 14 - 38hxl do not charge the battery. How to connect a voltage regulator in electric system? Two wires come out of the generator, and one free wire with such a connection (Photo). The mower was not bought new, so someone had already added their hands to the electrical system. There is no voltage regulator in the electrical system now. When the engine is started, and when the speed is given, the front headlights illuminate depending on how much speed is given. I'm asking for help. Thank you. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,938 #2 Posted June 18, 2021 I think the regulator you have is 691188. Click on the pictures in each link to view or download the pages. I do not see anything in the tractor service manual that will help Let us know what you figure out. I know very little about these later models. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,257 #3 Posted June 18, 2021 (edited) The missus go to mower right ther. Normal for the headlights to brighten with RPM. They run on AC current. There is a separate coils in the stator for lights and charge. The charge (alternator) coil has a diode in the harness and either that is bad or the alternator coil is bad. This is an unregulated system. If you have a device as you pictured then you have a regulated system and the regulator could be faulty. Could be issues in the wiring harness if someone messed with that. Here is a guide with wiring diagrams to help you get started. Also a service manual 492-3301 XL Wiring Demystification.pdf 492-4734 Toro XL-Series SM.pdf Edited June 18, 2021 by WHX24 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,938 #4 Posted June 18, 2021 Should be one of these Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,938 #5 Posted June 18, 2021 If you can find the tractor model number and serial number we may be able to help more. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thoroo 1 #6 Posted June 18, 2021 49 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: Should be one of these Thanks for the info, but how to connect a voltage regulator if two wires come out of the alternator? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,938 #7 Posted June 18, 2021 What colors are the wires coming out? Are those two wires the only wires coming from the engine? There will be one wire to ground the ignition to shut the engine off. Does the engine shut off with the key now? Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thoroo 1 #8 Posted June 18, 2021 Yes, now the engine shuts down with the key. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,938 #9 Posted June 18, 2021 Since we do not know the tractor model number or serial number this diagram may not be correct. Was the regulator with the yellow and red wires on the tractor? If so the yellow wire should go to the alternator stator wire that is not brown. The red wire would go to the solenoid as shown in the diagram. The regulator would not be shown because it is considered part of the engine. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thoroo 1 #10 Posted June 18, 2021 There is no voltage regulator on the tractor. I think it needs to be connected. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,938 #11 Posted June 18, 2021 Need some information. What is the tractor model number and serial number in the yellow circle? What is the model name in the pink circle? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thoroo 1 #12 Posted June 19, 2021 (edited) Toro wheel horse 14 - 38hxl. In the yellow circle - no information. Can the diode be damaged and not charge the battery? How to check the diode? Edited June 19, 2021 by Thoroo - Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,938 #13 Posted June 19, 2021 Yes it can be damaged. I have tried to figure out if you have one or use a regulator. Click on the fuzzy picture in the link and again on the next page. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thoroo 1 #14 Posted June 19, 2021 This diode to me is connected to an alternator. (Photo example). The tester shows '1' to one side and '537' to the other. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,938 #15 Posted June 19, 2021 The lights will not have a diode because they will work on AC (alternating current). Just the charging side uses a diode to provide DC (direct current) to charge the battery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thoroo 1 #16 Posted June 19, 2021 (edited) What the hell is here - under the tank - the cord, under the battery - the cord. Who should be connected to these contacts? When the tester is connected to the alternator and the motor is started at full speed, it shows 18-24 V. (Voltage changes depending on the motor speed). When I connected the 12 V bulb to the alternator, the bulb was on, but burned out at more speed. But the starter turns badly - the negative contact of the battery starts to heat up. The battery is new. How to make the battery charged in this circuit? Edited June 19, 2021 by Thoroo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 11,926 #17 Posted June 19, 2021 The wire "after the gas tank" looks to me like someone installed a non-factory jumper to defeat the seat safety switch--and that it is likely corroded as well. The 3-conductor "socket" the jumper wire is plugged into is designed to fit directly onto the standard SPDT microswitches that WH used for seat, motion control, PTO, clutch/brake, and other safety switches on many, many machines. A contact getting hot either has more current than it is designed for (not likely in this situation) or is having to overcome resistance caused by corrosion or other problem. You have to start opening and cleaning EVERY SINGLE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION (after first disconnecting the battery and with the engine OFF). Do you have the wiring diagram for your tractor? Tracing and mapping it out is going to be your route to sanity on this! For one tractor where wires had been replaced with all black (yep, PO musta got a deal at the parts store!) I printed out parts of the diagram blown up and taped to a piece of cardboard so I could annotate it with what I found while I traced things. As I went I used a magic marker and vinyl tape to label wiring that wasn't obvious. I also cleaned connections and replaced dodgy connectors/wires as I went. When I finished it started instantly and it still runs like a top. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,938 #18 Posted June 19, 2021 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thoroo 1 #19 Posted June 20, 2021 (edited) Yes, diode under this bulge in inslation. Will purchase voltage regulator help me to charge the battery and how to connect it to circuit? Which voltage reset buy - with two or with three wires or four wires? Edited June 20, 2021 by Thoroo - Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,938 #20 Posted June 20, 2021 2-wire regulator 691188 You need to remove the diode that is in the stator wire now. Body of regulator needs to be grounded. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thoroo 1 #21 Posted June 20, 2021 After remove the diode the alternator ,will the red wire of the regulator be applied to the solenoid and the yellow wire to the alternator black wire or to the ignition coil? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,938 #22 Posted June 20, 2021 Remove the diode from the stator wire and replace it with the yellow wire of the regulator. The red regulator wire connects to the red going to the starter solenoid/battery. The coil is self-powered. Do not allow and battery power into the ignition wire. That will burn up the ignition coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thoroo 1 #23 Posted June 21, 2021 Thank you so much for the advice. Now, when the engine is started at full speed, the tester shows 13 V. Maybe a low 13 V.? But when you start the engine and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, the engine continues to run. (First went out without a regulator) Another question - is how to connect a 12 V. indicator light (not an LED like in an old car) to monitor the battery charge? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 11,926 #24 Posted June 21, 2021 Your engine uses a magneto to fire the spark plug. It is normal that it will run with no battery connected once it is started. The 13v is low but it may be that your battery is nowhere near fully charged. If you are able, fully charge it with a separate battery charger before putting it back in the tractor. A lamp will tell you only that there is something close to 12v. You want to see 13v or greater to know that you are charging the battery. The best way is a simple voltage gauge connected between ground and the "A" terminal on the starter switch. Many are available on the jungle site or the bay. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 886 #25 Posted June 22, 2021 The statot that is in that engine may not produce that much voltage. Was only a 3amp system, and i have checked one in the past but can't remember the output. Just enough to keep battery charged after starting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
