New-to-me Horse (and other stuff) Hauler!!

[ebinmaine 67,403]

3 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

Heavy duty stabilizer bar and duel shocks will take care of that.

This is an HD so it has the larger bar already. 

[Handy Don 12,208]

I still remember the Ford TV commercial touting the twin I-Beam. The truck was running over a course laid with 2x boards on alternate sides. The aim was to show how the wheels were going up and down but the cab stayed steady. I always wondered how many runs over the course it took to find the exact speed needed to where the rhythm of the suspension was perfect. Plus I was sure that at slower or higher speeds that thing was all over just like any other truck!

[wh500special 2,168]

Congrats on the new/old truck.  I don’t like 1970’s and 1980’s vehicles in general, but I really really like that body style Ford.  They aren’t overblown or bulbous with extra adornments or trim and look light weight.  Nothing extra, just enough. 
 

 Dad had an ‘83 half ton 4wd with the 4-speed OD stick and the same 300 six.  I learned to drive in it.  By the time it was 4 or 5 years old all The paint had fallen off of it and it was gray primer.   We kept it touched up with gray spray paint to slow

down the rusting. 
 

It was so gutless but did what we needed. Top speed was 62 mph in either third or fourth gear.  Ours must have been the only 300 that was a piece of junk though because by 80k miles it was completely worn out.  No oil pressure and low compression.   Couldn’t park it on a hill without it rolling away.  We’d aim it for a

curb or tree to stop It.  The backup lights were permanently on. 
 

We put a new oil Pump and did a valve job on it.   No improvement. Decided to heck with it and just ran it like it was.  When it would warm up the oil pressure would plummet.   I guess it needed bearings or something but they plastigaged fine when we had the pan off for the oil pump.  
 

it was one of the first trucks to have antilock brakes on the rear axle.  Both axle seals blew out so the shoes were soaked in oil.  That’s the other reason it would roll

away…parking brake wouldn’t hold. 
 

still, I loved that truck.   When i see an 80-86 body f-series today I always do a

double take.  I can still hear the squeak

from the clutch pedal And the static on the sparkomatic.  
 

uncle had an 86 f150 2wd with the same engine and trans as dad’s.  It lasted a lot longer so we just got a lemon I guess.  His had a straight shifter whereas ours had a big s-curve.  
 

a neighbor had one with the 3.8L v-6.  Only one of those I’ve ever seen.  
 

anyway, LOVE IT!

 

and, what does BBT mean?

 

Steve 

[ebinmaine 67,403]

18 minutes ago, wh500special said:

anyway, LOVE IT!

 

and, what does BBT mean?

Hey thanks Steve!

 

I'm hoping it'll work out well as a tow beast and occasional load carrier for us. 

 

BBT is.....

Well it's @pullstart's invention.  Kev Buddy you care to 'splain the initials ?

 

 

[Pullstart 62,834]

Black Belt Trina.  She can carry a Kohler engine or a pile of firewood and break it all on half too!  Chop chop!

[ebinmaine 67,403]

Well folks.

After setting this project aside for a good solid year both mentally and physically so I could focus on the barn shop garage dojo storage area build, I've contacted summit tech and I'm going to be ordering an Auburn Gear Grip-N-Loc complete differential.

 

Fingers crossed, maybe I can put a couple miles on this truck this year. Get some of the other bugs worked out.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,834]

Complete… is this a 9” third member?

[ebinmaine 67,403]

3 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Complete… is this a 9” third member?

Oh no sir.  

 

F250 HD.  

 

It's a 10.25 ring gear in a full floater.  

Same axle as a 1 ton.  

[Pullstart 62,834]

Gotcha gotcha.

[ebinmaine 67,403]

Well as is standard faire for me I don't wanna rush a project. 

 

@87 416-8 horse

Here's the thread for my F250. 

 

I'll have to make some notes about what's happened and what I've bought over the almost 3 years I've had this beast. 

Trina has spoken. 

This truck will be moved closer to the top of the project list this year. 

We could have used it 3 years ago. 

We're very adaptable. 

Still using the same 5 x 8 trailer and she's since bought a bigger better vehicle too. 

 

But the big Ford.... it wants to be driven. 

 

Soon.......

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,403]

We spent some time rearranging the barn workshop yesterday so we could spend some time these next few days getting back on the truck build. 

 

First task will be removing the bed and rear fuel tank for better access to the rear axle. 

The axle is being rebuilt with ALL new internal parts including Yukon yoke, Motive ring & pinion,  and an Auburn Gear Company Limited Slip Differential.

Stock 4:10 ratio. 

Of course all new bearings and seals. New brake shoes. 

 

 

The bed will be sold so I can build my own red oak & steel flatbed. 

 

The rear tank I'm not sure yet. I really don't need it more than once a year,  if that. Any fuel left in it could easily go stale. Big issue there is it needs a distribution valve which I'd rather not buy. 

 

 

@87 416-8 horse

 

Here's the list of performance parts i have purchased  for the engine: 

 

Intake manifold. Clifford Performance single plane.

 

Carburetor. Carter AFB (Aluminum Four Bore) 4bbl 500 CFM mechanical secondaries. Vacuum secondary carbs are easier to drive but I love having the control over exactly how much I open the venturies. I might put an extra spring on the secondary set so I can feel them detent to open. 

 

Exhaust. Ford original EFI split manifolds. Walker front pipe. 2 into 1. I went with a single exhaust partially for ease of exhaust assembly on a 4WD and also because I like the tone. Muffler to be determined. I'll go deep tone and not drag racer loud. Likely a chambered design similar to a Flowmaster 40. No catalytic converter needed here. 

 

Distributor. Custom built HEI done by Bill Ambler racing distributors specific for my engine.

 

Camshaft. Jerry Cantrell at Schneider Cams made up a special Custom grind. 

Similar to:

  Part #13918-08.  

 

With stock rockers:

Int. duration 208° at 050. .464 valve lift. 

Exh. duration 214° at 050. .472 valve lift. 

If/when I switched to a higher ratio rockers the lift would be:

Int. .493

Exh. .502

Duration at .050 would also increase just a tiny smidgen. 

 

108⁰ lobe separation angle. I kept LSA tight mostly for the raucous lumpy idle. A bonus of that is more low/midrange torque. 

 

With all the changes above this engine should pull like a train up to about 4500 RPM. Higher with a better cylinder head. 

 

 

 

I have a BUNCH of other things to put on. 

Some are repairs. 

Some are finishes I knew it needed.  

Some are accessories or changes specific to my desires. 

 

It'll be a constant work in progress for several years, forever really. 

Other changes for the future will be Four new leaf springs. Stock rears. 4"+ lift fronts to level the truck. 

 

Edited August 12 by ebinmaine
Correct a brand name

[Pullstart 62,834]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

The rear tank I'm not sure yet. I really don't need it more than once a year,  if that. Any fuel left in it could easily go stale. Big issue there is it needs a distribution valve which I'd rather not buy. 

Norman has a 29 gallon transfer tank.  It can gravity feed, so I have a solenoid valve draining fuel into my main tank.  You could easily swap that distribution valve for a transfer pump.  When I’m on a road trip, I get down to about 5/8 tank and flip the switch until it quits filling.  I have no gauge on the transfer tank but I have a rough idea how many miles it’ll get me until I turn the valve off.  You could keep it empty but for a few times a year to keep the whistle whet on the pump..

[ebinmaine 67,403]

14 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

transfer pump

 

That warrants further research! 

[ebinmaine 67,403]

This afternoon we got the bed taken off, rear hitch, and the rear fuel tank removed. 

 

 

We're gathering up parts this evening and seeing where we're at for installing the rear differential and gears. 

 

 

 

[Oldskool 6,643]

It's nice to see you are putting some time into the ole Ford.

It's gonna make a good truck for ya.

[ebinmaine 67,403]

3 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

It's nice to see you are putting some time into the ole Ford.

It's gonna make a good truck for ya.

 

Thanks mister. 

Yes I believe it will.  

[ebinmaine 67,403]

We made some good progress on this old rig the other day but ran into another wall. 

We got the rear axle housing mostly cleaned out of all the rust and scale from setting over the years. Still working on that some. 

We got all the parts in the work area that I'd been unintentionally scattering in the basement workshop and barn. 

Got the HF 20 ton press in the barn and set up. 

Started working on the swap over and discovered that the new Auburn Gear brand differential and Motive brand ring and pinion are spaced and preloaded in a different manner from factory. 

That's fine but I needed a sacrificial bearing race we didn't have. 

Got that and then found that the side carrier bearing cap spacers are different on the aftermarket because they use several thin shims instead of one thick one. 

Also fine but the outside shims have no holding power. Lose a shim. Lose the axle. 

 

So I ordered a different type of shims.....

 

 

 

 

[peter lena 8,606]

@ebinmaine very nice , dare I  say it ? opportunity for body seam lubrication ? recent stop at H D  HOME DEPOT . was like going to a truck neglect event , every truck that was there , was crawling with rust , lower cab / tail gate , every door , tailgate , wheel well , leaf springs were like a rusty , log of neglect . napa , bars , open gear .  cable chain spray , knock r loose , penetrant . start at the top of  an enclosed area , as the  lube creeps down , its saturating the metals , along the way , look for the oil film on bottom areas days later . ford leaf springs , love cable / chain spray . none of my stuff has any rust going on , just a suggestion , stop it before it starts , they pre treat , roads with an  ice melt , before  plowing starts , what do you think thats doing to metals?  also hose down  if possible , at any winter weather break , looks like a kaleidoscope of colors  rinsing off you car / truck . oil slick at tail gate bottom , cab / seams , under hood spot welding , do it and forget it , it never stops creeping ,  rust free, pete     

[ebinmaine 67,403]

@peter lena

Absolutely going to remove most of the rust from the rear axle and frame. I know I won't get it all... but close. 

 

I'll be installing a wood flat bed later.  This bed isn't going back on. 

 

Rear springs, upper plates and shackles will be replaced maybe next year. 

All new hardware. All new bushings come right in the parts. 

 

Front springs later. All new bushings and hardware. 

The front will get a little lift. 

[Lee1977 6,655]

I fixed a 64 Ford 250 for my boss. The bed was removed and a full oak flat bed was installed by a local lumber company. The wood frame was bolted together with steel angles.there was a 2/8 down each side. The side pocket were bolted to the inside. I cut both ends of the bumper off extended it back with 3" channel as the wood bed was longer ( 10 ft.) and attached the tail lights to each side of the shorten bumper.

Edited August 17 by Lee1977

[ebinmaine 67,403]

12 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

I cut both ends of the bumper off extended it back with 3" channel as the wood bed was longer

 

That's about what I'm hoping to accomplish. 

 

I'd like a 7 x 9 flat area with a headboard in front of that. 

 

[wh500special 2,168]

On 8/12/2024 at 5:34 AM, ebinmaine said:

….

 

The bed will be sold so I can build my own red oak & steel flatbed. 

 

…

 

I’m sure it would work, but white oak is many times more rot resistant than red oak and could be a preferred choice for the flatbed decking.  
 

it’s also way, way, w-a-y more expensive…

 

I do like the overall plan 

 

Steve 

[ebinmaine 67,403]

32 minutes ago, wh500special said:

I’m sure it would work, but white oak is many times more rot resistant than red oak and could be a preferred choice for the flatbed decking.  
 

it’s also way, way, w-a-y more expensive…

 

I do like the overall plan 

 

Steve 

 

 

 Thanks Steve.

Yes I priced out the white oak versus red oak two or three years ago when I bought it. In this area, white oak is quite rare so it's even more expensive than you could imagine.

 

My choices were either Hemlock or red oak. Porosity is similar but the strength of red oak is substantially more. I do realize I will have to treat it quite often.

On the plus side, I won't exactly be avoiding rain on purpose but this isn't a daily driver.