414-8

[peter lena 8,627]

@414-8  think you are making the right choice there, those wiring issues don't seem that bad . and you can also get a total look see on the rest of your harness set up. besides that getting a  thorough baseline service / inspection done will give you good insight into your horse.  wish I had the opportunity to get one of those up to spec , pete 

[414-8 12]

well it started raining on me so I had to stop for now ,here is what it did today, i started it by jumping solenoid so I could move it close to garage,,,today when I turned starter key to stop it shut it down ,it did not do this yesterday also ran mower deck and stood up off of seat and it did kill engine in my mind the seat switch should be good?but it still will not turn starter with the key ,when putting test light to the solenoid it lights up when I turn key to the start position but does not activate starter put new solenoid in and still nothing ,how can it have power to the solenoid and not activate it,%$##!@@!@#

[414-8 12]

P.S test light still stays on for seat switch also on the board of  test lights

Edited June 8, 2021 by 414-8
spelling

[biged77 113]

Try disconnecting the purple signal wire to the solenoid and jumpering directly from the battery positive to the solenoid signal input.  If that doesn't work hook a heavy duty jumper cable from the battery negative side to the solenoid case (you may have a poor ground at the solenoid). 

 

From what you tell me the safety switches may not be bad.  If the engine cut off when you raised up from the seat with the PTO on then it's working OK.  The light staying on might be a bad test board, nothing to worry about.  The seat switch has nothing to do with starting.  If the clutch and PTO test lights didn't come on when you tried to start it that's a good sign too.  The lights are there to tell you something is wrong like a switch problem.

[414-8 12]

I pulled faded red wire from power side of solenoid ran jump wire from positive batt post to plus side of solenoid turn key dead  hooked wire back up, then put jump wire from batt ground to bolt holding solenoid to frame ,dead then I put jump from batt ground to ground side of solenoid and the key switch worked for the first time ,what does it mean ? I have no clue,haaa

Edited June 8, 2021 by 414-8
spelling

[biged77 113]

Sounds like bad ground connections.  I would remove the solenoid, clean all surfaces and connections using fine sandpaper including solenoid bolts maybe also add a separate cable from battery negative to engine block like Peter Lena recommended above.  I think all your safety switches are good.  You're getting close.

[414-8 12]

sounds good I will try that thanks for all the help.,

[TonyToro 1,049]

I’m following your post. I have a similar problem with a 312-8. My sons new project tractor. We are not getting anything from the ignition switch. I just put a new switch on it today. The old switch was really rotted. Still nothing.

 

As for a Puller...I would totally make it a puller. No need to cut anything for stock class. Depending on the rules of your club you just may need a kill switch. Many guys hook that right into the seat switch. All  is needed is a hitch and wheelie bars add weight to it and you are in the game. 

[414-8 12]

I can't bring myself to make a puller out of this one ,I have been using it and its just to handy ,and to nice ,I have not got to the bottom of my wiring problem I ran a ground wire to coil and all is good so I will run it this way tell I have time to dig in again, i want to find a cultivator to use on this tractor in the garden, good luck with yours Tony ,

[Lee1977 6,659]

I have had battery cables so corroded that no power could get trough. 

[peter lena 8,627]

@414-8  ist photo , you are looking down at the battery ground cable rail , bolt on point . last photo , look at the 4 ga  cable from the corner of the engine block , to frame mounting point , duplicate that for much better grounding . clean both bolt on points , use dielectric grease , to enhance it , pete  

 

[peter lena 8,627]

@TonyToro, notice anything different in that first photo , with the horizontal washer pack ? do you have a sloppy pto lever ? that's the amount of washers needed to snug that up , also notice the lubrication on it . snug and solid like it should have been . just my own experience , but I  regularly change out nagging issues , pete  

[414-8 12]

I don't have a lot of play in. mine but that looks like a good fix thanks

[Warning:Unsupervised 81]

  The PTO alignment issue happens on many Horses not just the 414-8. I fixed the PTO lever on my 414-8 & several other models too. Its an easy fix using my Harbor hose pliers (link below). I use them on hoses of most all types/sizes, spark plug boots, holding bolts/nuts in very hard to reach places, sensors, squeezing plastic connector release prongs but especially helpfull on hard to seperate connectors.

By far they are one of my top buys from Harbor yrs ago. Super handy tools to have around right there folks, just trust me & grab the set on your next HF run.

 Back to the PTO, beware if the PTO lever gets out of wack too far it snaps the metal tab right off the PTO safety switch forcing you to buy the switch along with the PTO bushings.

 

 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-long-reach-hose-grip-pliers-37909.html