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71_Bronco

Brake Band Issue

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71_Bronco

So with the help of a fellow member on here, I re-lined a brake band for my Lawn Ranger. The old material was extremely thin in some areas, and literally just popped off once I started prying at it.

 

I cleaned it up, painted it, and then siliconed the new material on. Let sit for a couple days, then installed it.

 

Now the issue I have, is that it wont roll. When on grass, I can kinda get it to roll (though very hard). When on the concrete garage floor, or the plywood shed floor, it just slides, or one wheel will spin forward and one back.

 

I when looking at the side, the petal tension spring (part no. 1014) is on top of the band, pushing it down onto the drum. I disconnected the spring, but did not improve anything.

 

I removed the band and stretched it a little (making the curve bigger) hoping that would help, but not luck. I also tried putting a washer between the transmission "ear" and the band where it bolts on, but again, no luck.

 

I also tried backing off the nut for the parking brake adjustment, thinking that was the issue, but that didn't help.

 

The next thing I'll have to try is removing the nut for the parking brake and see what's going on. Its almost like the new liner is too thick and no matter what I do, it is contacting the drum and causing it to stop.

 

I'll post some pics later showing what I've got and what I'm running into.

 

Has anybody else fought with this before?

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pfrederi

My Father bought my L-107 Ranger in May 1967.  In its entire life neither of us was ever able to get the parking brake adjusted so that it could be applied and released with out major effort (broke the plastic handle off  more than once which hurts you hand.) Haven't used the park feature in 54 years :P

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stevasaurus

Did you use too much silicone??  I'm thinking you should have a spring that would attach to the end of the band and would pull the band back...from under the band.  This would also bring back the brake pedal.  :eusa-think:

   Maybe you can post a picture of the linkage and band.

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71_Bronco

Here's what I have now (on hand). I did post a few months back about the linkages not matching the assembly of the diagram, but didnt get much response.

 

I had tried to drive out the pin (part 43) holding on the arm (part 158), but wasn't able to drive it out to reverse the parts. I ended up breaking my skinny 1/8 punch trying to get it out.

 

In the last picture, you can see the spring over the top of the band I was referring to previously.

 

20210117_073323.jpg.1a7ee2a2dd20c62d66cfea9ed09073f1.jpg

 

20210117_110021.jpg.06ded9cbac4ceb8e6119c9fa9aa413ee.jpg

 

20201024_164701.jpg.2ff2df3890dcf72a565bc9bc263fd8d8.jpg

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stevasaurus

That whole set up just does not look right.  I don't see a linkage from your pedal to that swivel piece.  I have nothing to compare to, as my horses here have the brake and clutch pedal on the left side together.

 

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stevasaurus

Here is my 857...see what you think??

 

2012_0712catcher20003.JPG

 

2013_04239570001.JPG

 

2013_04239570002.JPG

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pfrederi

This a an L107 but your handle doesn't look right...

 

Should be on inside of the pivot top hole

 

 

IMG_0209.JPG

IMG_0210.JPG

Edited by pfrederi
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71_Bronco

So here's what I got currently. This is how the tractor was when I got it.

 

Also note that the 2 pins that go through the "arm" (part 158 in the prior schematic picture) have 2 different sizes. I cannot put the parking brake lever on the other pin as the hole is the wrong size.

 

I checked the brake tonight with and without the nut on the stud (the one that passes through the band to set tension). In both cases, the band is contacting the drum in the 1 o'clock area. I tried sliding a business card in to see where it got stuck, telling me where the contact was.

 

I didnt try the same pictures without the spring (part 7). I can try that next if needed to see if that is causing the band to push down onto the drum. I dont know if that spring is original, looks a little too shiny to be, but I dont know for sure.

 

20210601_191700.jpg.60d0309b2ea8334019fcad4e3538fa1b.jpg

 

20210601_191655.jpg.47470d638df7e68c25fce7360a058b40.jpg

 

20210601_191224.jpg.15e4f9011e0566a7adb1dd1c80ef8f7a.jpg

 

20210601_191406.jpg.3766152782f3762b6e353a01a17bd5b0.jpg

 

20210601_193122.jpg.01ac85b73a6e9c3ae6c1142e77cb83f6.jpg

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wallfish

Bend the top of the band up to keep it from touching the top of the drum. Or you can try shimming it up at the mount bolts with washers .

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rmaynard

Looking at the parts diagram on post #4, and comparing it to the picture on post #8, it looks like you have the linkage and parking brake assembled wrong.

 

rangerbrake.png.a5b99c28eb539ec1a68dc58696ca3cd4.png

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squonk

Yup. Lever and rod go in top hole. Long rod and trunion middle hole.

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71_Bronco
12 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Looking at the parts diagram on post #4, and comparing it to the picture on post #8, it looks like you have the linkage and parking brake assembled wrong.

 

rangerbrake.png.a5b99c28eb539ec1a68dc58696ca3cd4.png

 

I cannot swap the parts as the holes in the arm (part 158) are different sizes. The threaded trunnion (part 101) is a larger size than the brake stud (part 147).

 

Also, I tried taking it apart to put the cotter pins inside (on the side closer to the consul), but I was not able to get out the pin (part 42) to take it apart. There is not enough space between the consul and the arm to remove them.

 

Although, I could remove the center consul portion and pull them out that way. that thought just dawned on me.

 

@wallfish, I did try putting a washer under the band (between the band and the transmission tab) as you suggested, but I dont think I added enough. I only put 1 washer on to see if it would help.

 

I think I need to bend the band up between the brake material and the mounting holes. Will probably be a trial and error of how much bend I need.

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rmaynard

If this is a 1962 Lawn Ranger, then you definitely have a parts placement problem. However, that doesn't appear to be an issue that would cause the brake to drag. Looking at this picture, the only clearance problem is between the two arrows. In that case, I would remove the band and reshape (bend) it (along the green line) to provide adequate clearance so nothing is touching.

 

However, in my opinion, that little bit of touch between the lining and the drum would not be sufficient to cause the wheels to drag.

 

bandclear.jpg.1de40ca2718c58c033bae71e8f818e61.jpg

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71_Bronco

@rmaynard, yes, that is where the band is touching, in the green area you pointed to. I need to look at it tonight to see if the spring on top is pushing the band down onto the drum, or if it is purely due to the shape of the band.

 

This is the tractor as I bought it. The engine is not the correct one (should be an H55), and the wiring / throttle cable was cobbled together, but as far as I could tell, the rest was original / stock. I was told the hood was from a different tractor (slightly different color), but it looks to be the correct one from what I can tell. Not that it would play any role in this brake band issue lol.

 

20200716_191957.jpg.0022076a2407ddcf86475ffbaa7f32dd.jpg

 

20200716_192007.jpg.6f6beacb232f53dd36b7b92d2cd7c22a.jpg

 

20200716_192017.jpg.de74cd9411f8cc6a42cbbed3c147b783.jpg

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rmaynard

20200716_191957.jpg.0022076a2407ddcf86475ffbaa7f32dd.jpg.7cb07c51a2634c2898ecdd8ed45aa4eb.jpg

 

With the pedal laying flat, you definitely have a linkage issue.

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71_Bronco

Is that's the case, I'm going to need a new clutch arm, part number 3979. AZ has 2 in stock.

 

Per the previous posts, I will not be able to swap them unless I drill out my existing small hole, and add a bushing to the large one (since the trunnion pins are different sizes).

 

12 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

20200716_191957.jpg.0022076a2407ddcf86475ffbaa7f32dd.jpg.7cb07c51a2634c2898ecdd8ed45aa4eb.jpg

 

With the pedal laying flat, you definitely have a linkage issue.

 

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