running bad.

[ptracy70 2]

i just put new rings and did a valve job on a k181

good thing NO SMOKE ,but running rough.im not sure how to set the governor and i bought a carb from i save tractors, but a guy that was helping me as soon as i turned my back started turning every screw on the carb and he did know what he was turning. so when he left ,i started to redo all the cables and reset the governor ,but no luck.not much on setting this on youtube or the carb.thanks for any help.also if anyone has i stock carb i can buy to use or one that needs rebuilt id be interested.thank you for any help.phil.

[Pullstart 62,921]

Hey Phil,

 

to set your governor, disconnect or loosen your throttle cable and hold the carb at wide open throttle.  Watch the rotation of the governor shaft.  Loosen the governor clamp so it’s just snug and allows some movement but doesn’t flop around.  I like to hang a pair of vice grips off the shaft of the governor so it rotates the same direction as the carb linkages.  When the carb is at w.o.t. and the vice grips are hanging off the side of the engine, tighten that governor shaft clamp.

[Pullstart 62,921]

This is a big block, but helps to explain.  The rod and the arm both need to be held in the same direction as shown.

 

photo pilfered from @WHX24 Uncle Jim...

 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,244]

 to the  Phil.

 

Looks like Kevin has you covered on the gov set up.

For the carb, there are only three adjustment screws.   Set the throttle plate stop screw so it is just holding the plate slightly open.   You can adjust it later after setting the jets.

Gently turn in both jet screws untill they bottom out, then back them out 1 1/2 turns.   Start the engine and then fine tune the low speed jet at idle and the high speed jet at WOT to achieve maximum RPM.     If necessary, reset the throttle stop to slow down the idle.

[WHX?? 48,833]

Not so fast fellas if he's got a 181 it's going to be different than a big block.

More like this Phil?

Page 7 on this manual for the guv adjust & more info on carb adjust but start with Ed's suggestion. 

 

I do the same thing with the vise grippys Kev... works good. 

Kohler K181S-30108d OM IPL SM (1).pdf

Edited June 1, 2021 by WHX24

[953 nut 55,325]

10 hours ago, phil t said:

guy that was helping me as soon as i turned my back started turning every screw on the carb and he did know what he was turning.

Next time your friend comes over hide all the tools and duct tape his hands behind him!          Looks like Ed and Jim have you covered. Be sure the ignition points are set properly, they set the ignition timing.

Ignition timing on Kohler engines.

 

Gapping the ignition points at .020 has always been the standard answer to how points should be set. That probably will get you into the ballpark where the engine will run, but with a bit of additional effort you can improve the engine’s power and performance.

The Kohler engine manual in the Red Square files section covers two methods for setting the ignition timing, Static Timing and using a Timing Light. This manual is a relatively new manual and it overlooks the fact that many of our engines were built prior to the ACR (automatic compression release) camshaft.

Earlier engines (mostly 1965 and earlier) had a Spark Advance camshaft that can not be timed using Static timing. At rest (and very low RPMs) the timing is retarded to fire slightly after TDC. The timing mark (SP) on your flywheel is at twenty degrees before top dead center but at rest the points on these engines break about ten degrees after top dead center. The only reliable way to check or set the timing on these engines is with a timing light.

There are a couple ways to determine what camshaft you have. Presuming the camshaft in your engine is the one it was born with the data plate on the engine has a suffix that can tell you what camshaft was used. The table below will tell you the suffix applicable to your engine. The other way to determine what camshaft you have is to remove the cam gear cover and take a look. If you see a mechanism attached to the cam gear it is the ACR cam.

 

 

The following engines have the spark advance camshaft;

K-141, Suffix prior to “C”

K-161, Suffix prior to “J”

K-181, Suffix prior to “D”

K-241, Suffix prior to “D”

[WHX?? 48,833]

Excellent advice Richard. Dan has a K91 in his McLean that was always tired me out watching him pull it over.  He went a couple of thou. one side or the other of .02 and now starts easier.  

BTW Phil yes we have many more manuals on K series in the files section if you need. 

Edited June 1, 2021 by WHX24

[oliver2-44 9,764]

The guys above have you headed the right direction.  One you set your governor and check you timing , I have one thing to add.  I've had 3 aftermarket carbs. One worked good, one had no response to idle adjustment and one had no response to either adjustment.  Regrettable there seems to be no precision to their manufacturing. So set your carb as advises above.  Then when you have it running try to adjust the idle by moving the idle screw a little each way. if you get no engine response move it more each way. I could move my idle screw all most all the way open or closed and get no response. Do the same with the high speed main jet.  if you don't get any response while you trying to adjust it, it's probable the carb. 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

 to  

 

[ptracy70 2]

Thanks for all of your advice.

i went out and reset points and governor and its running 80% better.

im going to buy new points and condenser im sure that will help also.

for  some reason, after having the engine off and then put on, i dont have full throttle position on dash?

i have some older pictures i took before i removed it and ill try to match where stuff was.it only goes half way.

i wish i could post a video of before and after.on here to show how good or bad its running.

let me know if i can.thanks again.phil.