New Toy Hauler

[Pullstart 62,911]

2 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

A piece of 3/4 thick plate with a proper diameter round stock welded to it, maybe.  

 

As far as tires go, you would want to match sizes in the dual application.  Tread style would be personal preference, of which, I don't have any.  

 

Lug nut torque is absolutely critical - especially with new studs installed.  Improper torque is a contributing factor in failures for this type of wheel.  Probably a section on lug nut torque in the owners manual.  I'm going to guess that the studs are 1/2".  90 to 100 ft lb would probably be a good place to start.

and if they are 5/8”?

[WHX?? 48,828]

1 hour ago, pullstart said:

and if they are 5/8”?

You know better Kev .... torque them to the max of the chart of that steel/size the recheck after some  run in. 

[8ntruck 7,016]

Go to the owners manual and/or torque charts.  Probably 120 to 140 ftlb.

 

Is there just one lug nut holding both of the duals on, or does this use an inner lug nut with a threaded I'd for a 'normal' lug nut to retain the outer dual -like the system used on 18 wheelers?

[Pullstart 62,911]

13 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

Go to the owners manual and/or torque charts.  Probably 120 to 140 ftlb.

 

Is there just one lug nut holding both of the duals on, or does this use an inner lug nut with a threaded I'd for a 'normal' lug nut to retain the outer dual -like the system used on 18 wheelers?

One lug holds everything out back.  10 on the rear duals and 5 up front... with 1/4” rings outboard of the wheels on all four corners.

[8ntruck 7,016]

You will want to make sure the mounting faces of the dual wheels that touch the hub or other wheel are clean to help retain lug nut torque.

 

With the single lug nut system, torque them in an alternating pattern across the hub.  If the lug nuts have captive cup washers, you want to make sure there is no dirt between the nut and washer.  Lubrication in this area can lead to over torquing - dry is preferred.

[Pullstart 62,911]

Early, I know... but I’m playing with layouts.  With the Senior, gas jugs and genny in the back of Norman, I think I can get 5 tractors including the lever steer, a FEL and a walk behind on the flat bed.  Now figuring out where to put ramps and a spare tire... 

 

 

[Achto 27,603]

7 hours ago, pullstart said:

Now figuring out where to put ramps and a spare tire.

 

Can you make the ramps so that they stick into or hang off from the stake pockets on the flat bed?

Edited June 9, 2021 by Achto

[Achto 27,603]

11 hours ago, pullstart said:

and if they are 5/8”?

 

Last line from the article that you posted earlier.

 

• Reinstall the wheel. Torque lug nuts to 175 lb-ft.

 

I believe factory spec is 140 lb-ft, These are dry specs,10% lower torque if you use never seize on the threads.

Edited June 9, 2021 by Achto

[ebinmaine 67,610]

5 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

Can you make the ramps so that the stick into or hang off from the stake pockets on the flat bed?

You set that up just right and you could make bed sides that ARE the ramps.

 

You'd have a great way to keep the material on the bed that's supposed to be there and also extended length ramps which would be extremely handy on a flatbed that is probably a little taller than your average truck at the back. 

[Pullstart 62,911]

45 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

You set that up just right and you could make bed sides that ARE the ramps.

 

You'd have a great way to keep the material on the bed that's supposed to be there and also extended length ramps which would be extremely handy on a flatbed that is probably a little taller than your average truck at the back. 

Kind of like Norman’s bed deck...  those ramps sure are heavy!  I could easily build a 12’ ramp half as light, with the right material.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

19 hours ago, lynnmor said:

The jack and chains would still have a bit of give and act as a heavy spring.  My idea is to have something heavy and solid under the pin.  JMHO.

There is hydraulic pressure under the pin, trying to drive it up and out.  The chains are creating a press style application to push up.  I have, however, been trying his with my little cutting tip.  I found a good sized rosebud that the gas supply company said would surely work with my acetylene bottle.  They sold me the next size up tip as well, but acetylene is so heavy it might not rise to the regulator quick enough to work.  I also got a full bottle of oxygen, I was under 50 psi in my tank (otherwise read as empty).  Either way, today I’ll be putting as much heat as I can to the axle.  I’ll do this with the jack pressure relieved and my chain away from the heat, until it’s good and hot then I’ll chain and jack it.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

The new rosebud is helping and the pin is moving!  Slowly but slowly!

 

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

Start to finish, 33 minutes of super hot torch and big heavy hammer.  My hands are toast!  The pin is out!

[Pullstart 62,911]

The existing grease on the top cap had to be chiseled out.  Everything else was lubed quite well.  Wired.  
 

I had to use my die grinder to open up the new bushings, but it’s tight!

 

 

[squonk 41,155]

When I said ball joints, I didn't mean to jinx you! 

[Pullstart 62,911]

18 minutes ago, squonk said:

When I said ball joints, I didn't mean to jinx you! 

I don’t mind living a little dangerous.  Don’t mean I want to stick my lady in the same boat...  and she plans to drive this to PeeAaaah  I’d rather fix this stuff in my shop, than on the side of the highway!  I’m getting close to the finish line.  I’m at the point I meant to be yesterday morning 

[Pullstart 62,911]

Running.  Driving.  Right front loosened.  Re-torqued.  Test drive.  Torque kept.  Woo. And Hoo.  I’m ready to work on something else.

 

 

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

Funny story.  I took the kids to lunch yesterday and was teaching them about a kingpin.  Rylee said this one wasn’t even a queen pin.  It was the joker.  She asked tonight after test drives, if it’s still a joker or if it’s a king again.  Oh that kid...

[ebinmaine 67,610]

6 hours ago, pullstart said:

Running.  Driving.  Right front loosened.  Re-torqued.  Test drive.  Torque kept

Is this a component that requires retorque as a standard?

 

 

I been crazy busy and not keeping up... Transmission bellhousing ok?

[squonk 41,155]

Wheels should always be re-torqued. Especially Aluminum ones

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

And for some video updates to catch us up to speed a bit...

 

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

@Maxwell-8 if you thought dropping it down was sketchy, check out 1:40 in this video!

 

 

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

2 hours ago, pullstart said:

@Maxwell-8 if you thought dropping it down was sketchy, check out 1:40 in this video!

 

 

Hhaha, I wouldn't have the muscles to do it.

[Pullstart 62,911]