New Toy Hauler

[Achto 27,603]

2 hours ago, WHX24 said:

my ? is how did it come that loose to begin with? 

 

I've seen it where people have used the mounting bolts to draw the transmission tight to the engine (from an inch or so apart) instead of making sure that the 2 surfaces touch each other before tightening the bolts. This can cause the bell housing to crack which would explain why it came loose.

[Pullstart 62,911]

3 hours ago, Achto said:

 

Did it look like this transmission was ever removed prior to you? It looks like it was a victim of  "Never force things, draw them together".

 

Do you plan on welding the outside and inside of the housing?

the old flex plate has a date code of 062612 and I see a lot of blue paint marker on the trans bolts.  My guess is this was rebuilt then.  It could be a victim of under torqued bolts, no loctite, or something else.  The trans came loose, making the flex plate shatter is my best guess.

[squonk 41,155]

I've seen those plates break all the time. Not many bell housings.  

 

Make sure that torque converter is seated! 

Edited June 4, 2021 by squonk

[Pullstart 62,911]

On 6/4/2021 at 6:09 PM, squonk said:

Make sure that torque converter is seated! 

Edited Friday at 06:11 PM by squonk

How’d you guess?  First time in a long time I didn’t get it fully engaged!  Luckily a short motorcycle ride and these guys have what I need...
 

 

[squonk 41,155]

55 minutes ago, pullstart said:

How’d you guess?  First time in a long time I didn’t get it fully engaged!  Luckily a short motorcycle ride and these guys have what I need...
 

 

 

The Shadow (The Squonk) knows! 

[Pullstart 62,911]

It’s a time setback, but a lesson learned.  They didn’t have a gear set, but a new pump body and some seals set me back $116.60.  The torque converter bushing (looks like a cam bearing) was toast too from the weight of the transmission riding on it.  All better now!

 

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

There we go @squonk

 

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

Forward progress.  It’s not super hot today, but it sure is sweaty outside!

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

Farm Truck is ready for the road!  Well... better stick some brakes on it!

[Pullstart 62,911]

Rear brake pads are done, calipers anti-siezed well enough @Achto and @WHX24 should be able to slide halfway to the Big Show!  Fronts are getting new rotors and I’ll pack the bearings while I’m in there.  The store will have me some wheel seals in the morning.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

Ice Worms.  The original drilled and slotted.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

I found this article which was useful for torque specs on the front end work.

 

https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/c3500hd-king-pin-replacement.html

 

it states for the axle nut to tighten it, back it off, then snug it up again.  Removing it, I had to crack it loose so I knew a 1/4 turn slop was not correct like trailers.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

@ebinmaine @Achto @Ed Kennell @8ntruck

or anyone with heavy duty wheel and tire experience...

 

what would you say is a better steer tire?  The flat, grooved tires were up front.  225/70R19.5.  The treaded tires I picked up for spares, but are a bit taller and skinnier.  8-19.5. Both are Load Rated F.  I was thinking put the 8-19.5’s up front for the shear fact of universal replacement should I need a spare.  The 225/70R19.5’s could essentially go anywhere.  What say you?

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,610]

6 minutes ago, pullstart said:

@ebinmaine @Achto @Ed Kennell @8ntruck

or anyone with heavy duty wheel and tire experience...

 

what would you say is a better steer tire?  The flat, grooved tires were up front.  225/70R19.5.  The treaded tires I picked up for spares, but are a bit taller and skinnier.  8-19.5. Both are Load Rated F.  I was thinking put the 8-19.5’s up front for the shear fact of universal replacement should I need a spare.  The 225/70R19.5’s could essentially go anywhere.  What say you?

 

 

 

Was it me I would put the lower set where you're showing two tires, on the front. I like to have a little bit of cross tread on my steering tires and the upper tire does not have that.

Mind you, that's just a matter of preference for the driving that I do both on asphalt and dirt.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,911]

4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Was it me I would put the lower set where you're showing two tires, on the front. I like to have a little bit of cross tread on my steering tires and the upper tire does not have that.

Mind you, that's just a matter of preference for the driving that I do both on asphalt and dirt.

 

 

different reasoning, but my same choice.  Like mentioned, I’d like my spare to match the rears, should I need one.

[Achto 27,603]

I agree with Eric, the tires in the second picture look to have better siping capabilities. Is the tire in the first picture a regroovable tire?

[Pullstart 62,911]

1 minute ago, Achto said:

I agree with Eric, the tires in the second picture look to have better siping capabilities. Is the tire in the first picture a regroovable tire?

yes, it is.  Is there a way to tell if it has been?

[Achto 27,603]

4 minutes ago, pullstart said:

yes, it is.  Is there a way to tell if it has been?

 

Looking at the fine cross grooves, I would say that the tire has not been regrooved yet. Most people don't bother with the fine cuts. There looks like there are wear bars down in the groove as well. these would disappear when regrooved.

Edited June 8, 2021 by Achto

[Achto 27,603]

1 hour ago, pullstart said:

states for the axle nut to tighten it, back it off, then snug it up again.  Removing it, I had to crack it loose so I knew a 1/4 turn slop was not correct like trailers.

 

 

Very important practice when dealing with those rims. Re-torque your lug nuts after putting 100 miles on. They are known for coming loose. You don't want to lose a wheel. After the re-torque you should be good until the next time you remove them.

[Pullstart 62,911]

One more corner done, but the last corner has a bad king pin.    I’ll get it apart and wait for them to come in to the local store from the main hub...  

 

*edit* good point @Achto, especially with replacing one set of studs...

Edited June 8, 2021 by pullstart

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,326]

@pullstart Has POS been spoken yet ?

[Pullstart 62,911]

2 minutes ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

@pullstart Has POS been spoken yet ?

i don’t recall, officer.

[Pullstart 62,911]

Might just leave it sloppy!

 

axle glowing red with a torch?  Yep.  Floor jack chained to the axle with a small enough drive socket?  Yup.  Still hot and jack maxed out and smacking it with a 10 lb sledge?  Absolutely.

and to think a frozen hitch pin gets some people fired up...

 

Ideas?

[lynnmor 7,308]

The jack and chains would still have a bit of give and act as a heavy spring.  My idea is to have something heavy and solid under the pin.  JMHO.

[8ntruck 7,016]

1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

The jack and chains would still have a bit of give and act as a heavy spring.  My idea is to have something heavy and solid under the pin.  JMHO.

A piece of 3/4 thick plate with a proper diameter round stock welded to it, maybe.  

 

As far as tires go, you would want to match sizes in the dual application.  Tread style would be personal preference, of which, I don't have any.  

 

Lug nut torque is absolutely critical - especially with new studs installed.  Improper torque is a contributing factor in failures for this type of wheel.  Probably a section on lug nut torque in the owners manual.  I'm going to guess that the studs are 1/2".  90 to 100 ft lb would probably be a good place to start.

Edited June 8, 2021 by 8ntruck