Ammeter to volt meter

[Gregor 4,846]

I am switching my C-125 from an Ammeter to a Volt Meter. Please tell me if I am doing this right.  Thanks  Greg

[ebinmaine 67,624]

Voltmeters want to be on a circuit that's only live with key on. 

 

If that's the case you're good to go.  

[Gregor 4,846]

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Voltmeters want to be on a circuit that's only live with key on. 

 

If that's the case you're good to go.  

I'll have to check that. I don't think it is.

 

Might have to move it to accessories position.

Edited May 22, 2021 by Gregor

[ebinmaine 67,624]

3 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I'll have to check that. I don't think it is.

 

Might have to move it to accessories position.

I think that's where one of mine is.  

I don't know enough about ALL the tractor systems to say for sure... I've also used the "I" terminal. 

 

I like to have a reading while cranking the engine so I can check battery condition. 

 

 

[ranger 1,750]

If the positive battery lead is going to the solenoid, then voltmeter, then battery terminal on ignition switch, the voltmeter will show a voltage whether ignition is on or off.

[Gregor 4,846]

9 minutes ago, ranger said:

If the positive battery lead is going to the solenoid, then voltmeter, then battery terminal on ignition switch, the voltmeter will show a voltage whether ignition is on or off.

Agreed

[Tuneup 1,433]

Attach it to the ignition ON terminal or the (+) lead of the coil but the wiring suggestion is correct. I have one on my C-125 and can check what I did (3 years ago) if you like. Nothing special to do tomorrow

[Gregor 4,846]

My newest new. The coil wire actually goes through the PTO interlock switch, but I didn't draw that in.

[953 nut 55,321]

@BOB ELLISON did the hard work for you, check out his drawings. First one has the amp meter, second has volt meter.

 

[Tuneup 1,433]

Ah, yes, very nice!

[Gregor 4,846]

I was going to go on the accessories terminal , but others suggested the ignition terminal, so I went with that.

[Tuneup 1,433]

So as long as the interlock does not kick-in - getting off the seat with the blades on - you're golden! I'm curious enough to go to the shed to see how I connected mine. The 125 can use some exercise anyway.

[Gregor 4,846]

The above wiring diagram does not show the coil wire going through the PTO interlock switch, as it appears on the diagram for the 125.

[squonk 41,155]

44 minutes ago, Gregor said:

My newest new. The coil wire actually goes through the PTO interlock switch, but I didn't draw that in.

That configuration is ok but be aware if the fuse blows or there is a connection problem in the fuse holder, the tractor will quit. 

 

[19richie66 17,508]

Shouldn’t that side of the solenoid come from the battery positive? No fuse in the solenoid. 

[squonk 41,155]

Assuming that connection is on the same post as the positive battery cable, That fuse will basically handle the entire electrical circuit of the tractor.

[Gregor 4,846]

Per wiring diagram, fuse is on the battery side of the solenoid. That's all I know.

 

My 141 also has the fuse on the battery side of the solenoid.

Edited May 23, 2021 by Gregor

[squonk 41,155]

That fuse is fine. The problem lies in the fuse holder. These style fuse holder: 

Or this:

    Are notorious for getting dirt, gunk, bugs broken tension springs ect. that will stop the tractor dead.

 

Be sure to use a weatherproof holder like this: 

Be sure to put it where you can get at it and if you ever sell the tractor, be sure to tell the new owner about it.

 

Edited May 23, 2021 by squonk

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Good advice mike 👍

 

I set the Voltmeter on my 212 onto the „i“ terminal of the Keyswitch.

i means ignition, so the Terminal is on power while key is in ignition position.

 

A connection on Acc position it depends on the Keyswitch, 

there are Keyswitches available the have an extra „select“ for the Acc pin.

 

Btw take also a look, that the wiregauge of the cable for the insulated Fuseholder

is specified for your rated fuse you like to insert. It doesn‘t make sense to protect the Wires with a fuseholder where the wire is underdimensioned and act at least self as a fuse.

So don‘t trust blind on the thickness of cable you see only on the insulation, that is sometimes on weatherproof Fuseholders thicker than on open ones.

Check before, if it can handle at least 30A continousely, so you are allway‘s on the save Way up to 25A.

 

on heavier Fuses i use only Automotive Screwed types up to 80 Amps,

they be all in the same dimension, here they be called Midi fuses.

 

a fuse should normally only protect the wires, not the things they be hooked on the Wires.

So the right dimension is highly recommend 

 👍

Edited May 23, 2021 by Tractorhead