Horse Newbie 7,071 #1 Posted May 22, 2021 Anybody know what the problem may be with this ?...take a listen... 20210522_121132.mp4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,071 #2 Posted May 22, 2021 Head gasket ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPINJIM 1,981 #3 Posted May 22, 2021 Head gasket problem won't necessarily keep a 2-cylinder from starting. Check and make sure you're getting fuel through the fuel pump. Then check for a spark to both cylinders. Good luck. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,071 #4 Posted May 22, 2021 Thanks @SPINJIM...I did notice that the fuel filter looked empty. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,071 #5 Posted May 22, 2021 Getting fuel and spark on both cylinders... New video...any new ideas ? At first would not crank...sat a while, checked fuel, checked spark, now cranks but sounds bad...popping back through carb it seems... 20210522_141434.mp4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildman 205 #6 Posted May 22, 2021 Pull the valve covers an check your push rods 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scWHhauler 96 #7 Posted May 22, 2021 check the push rods common issue 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPINJIM 1,981 #8 Posted May 22, 2021 Sounds like a valves issue, so push rods make sense. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,071 #9 Posted May 22, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, wildman said: Pull the valve covers an check your push rods Thanks @wildman, @scWHhauler, and @SPINJIM, Have not done that, but I'm pretty sure they are there...no seriously...what should I check for ? Edited May 22, 2021 by Horse Newbie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,233 #10 Posted May 22, 2021 Sheared key on the flywheel? Spark and fuel are not in the same place at the same time. Did the mower hit a bit rock or something and stall the engine? I've seen this several times on vertical engine mowers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,071 #11 Posted May 22, 2021 3 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Sheared key on the flywheel? Thanks @Handy Don...can't swear that the key is not sheared, but I don't think my neighbor hit anything to shear it as I was in the yard when he was mowing and I didn't hear him hit anything. Also don't know if it just started running different while it was running, or if he turned it off, re-cranked, then it started running sounding and running different. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,233 #12 Posted May 22, 2021 19 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: Thanks @Handy Don...can't swear that the key is not sheared, but I don't think my neighbor hit anything to shear it as I was in the yard when he was mowing and I didn't hear him hit anything. Also don't know if it just started running different while it was running, or if he turned it off, re-cranked, then it started running sounding and running different. Can also shear the key with a sudden load when at high RPMs--engaging a clogged mower can do it. It's easier if the flywheel is already a bit loose--any recent repairs? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,071 #13 Posted May 22, 2021 Nope...no recent repairs...wonder what the other guys meant when they said "check your pushrods?" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,481 #14 Posted May 22, 2021 Rockers may be loose have seen this before, pull the covers that may tell you alot. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,233 #15 Posted May 23, 2021 1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said: Nope...no recent repairs...wonder what the other guys meant when they said "check your pushrods?" This engine has "overhead" valves that are actuated by rods that ride on a camshaft inside the engine and extend outward to a rocker arm that then lifts the the intake and exhaust valve. The rockers are usually under covers (often labeled "OHV") near the spark plugs. The covers are usually held on with two bolts or nuts. Looking under the cover you can check for excessive looseness or tightness (or not-ness!) of the rod and valve operation. Have you looked online for a service manual for that engine? It'll help you get a feel for the parts, etc. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,071 #16 Posted May 23, 2021 44 minutes ago, Handy Don said: This engine has "overhead" valves that are actuated by rods that ride on a camshaft inside the engine and extend outward to a rocker arm that then lifts the the intake and exhaust valve. The rockers are usually under covers (often labeled "OHV") near the spark plugs. The covers are usually held on with two bolts or nuts. Looking under the cover you can check for excessive looseness or tightness (or not-ness!) of the rod and valve operation. Have you looked online for a service manual for that engine? It'll help you get a feel for the parts, etc. No @Handy Don have not looked for a service manual yet. My neighbor will have to decide if he wants me and him to look at it or take it to his mower man. I am pretty familiar with the valve train as you described, but to check if push rods are right shouldn't I be able to spin the push rods when both valves are closed on whatever cylinder is top dead center. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bds1984 1,433 #17 Posted May 23, 2021 Some Briggs engines have plastic camshafts. I've had several power washers and larger single cylinder engines come to me with similar symptoms. Once I split the crankcase I observed the plastic cam gear was either worn or skipped a tooth, or the lobes were worn severely, or the lobes had actually twisted (the plastic is molded around a steel shaft). Just a suggestion and hopefully not a severe fix. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,071 #18 Posted May 23, 2021 51 minutes ago, bds1984 said: Once I split the crankcase I observed the plastic cam gear was either worn or skipped a tooth, or the lobes were worn severely, Now I'm about 100% sure that if that's the case, then my neighbor will be shopping for a lawn tractor...his mower man already has said maybe time for a new one...or maybe my neighbor can find a used compatible engine and do a swap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,233 #19 Posted May 23, 2021 Sounds like it'll take a deeper dive than you and your neighbor are ready for 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bds1984 1,433 #20 Posted May 23, 2021 It CAN be repaired, it just depends on how far either of you want to dive into it and/or how much money to spend. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,071 #21 Posted May 23, 2021 16 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Sounds like it'll take a deeper dive than you and your neighbor are ready for I am hoping all it is is a spark plug, or maybe valve adjustment ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,071 #22 Posted May 23, 2021 I, unfortunately do not have a lot of experience with engines...especially the internals. And I've seen the yards and shops of people who THINK they do but don't...a lot of torn apart, unrepaired stuff. A mans got to know his limitations... I would not attempt brain surgery either ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shallowwatersailor 3,213 #23 Posted May 23, 2021 Several things going against this tractor. The Intek engine is a throw-away by Briggs with a life of 500-1000 hours. After watching your first video I said to myself, valve problem. It seems others before me since then have agreed. Also the transaxle does not have a good reputation for longevity as well. Before sinking a lot of money into it I would consider a "new" tractor. Because of the transaxle problem you may find a L120 or similar (L130?) with a bad transaxle but decent engine - cheap!. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
