C175 project "Amy"

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

45 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Check the axle surface to make sure there's a flat spot to "catch" the second set screw. I can't tell from the pics. 

It has a little spot.

45 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Good idea for you to replace those. 

Aai Aai Aai trying to find those, not an easy job. Has the tick 1 1/8 axles which are even more rare. Gone hear at my local machine shop, He may be able to make me some customs. or ask Skipper.

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

Behind all the deck tape I found the remains of a failed attempt to remove the steering wheel. Do not know why they want to remove it as there is minimal steering-play. 

 

May try reuse this steering wheel or probably take one of the donor tractor. Do got to say those steering shafts are beefy compared to riding mowers/ lawn tractors. 

 

[Damien Walker 246]

Hmm yes! From my experience, steering wheel removal is extremely difficult and is best attempted on the bench with the column and dashboard assembly removed from the tractor (so you can support the wheel against the pin removing hammer blows). It may be possible to make a tool to press the pin out in situ, but I haven't achieved this yet. The three spoke C Series wheels are the best in my opinion, the later 'automotive' style appear to have a fixing boss made out of the finest cheese which wears/spreads open with use, making the wheel a sloppy fit.

 

There is often an additional problem after you have removed the pin.. the wheel can be seized onto the column. I had to remove the wheel centre cap, drill through the plastic in the centre of the wheel and press the shaft out in a hydraulic press. This also meant cutting the shaft to remove it from the dashboard so that it would fit into the press.

 

You are probably aware that materials to rebuild such damage are available but it would obviously be easier to simply buy another wheel.

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

My computer broke down about a week ago, Yesterday it wsa finnaly fixed. A week whitout any distractions got my a bit further with Amy. Eventhough I couldn't order any parts.

 

The axles seals came in  at the toro dealer, 50$ for a set.  So I got them installed and when I went to check on the hub that I thought was loose, fit on nice and snug! 

And filled her up with some fresh oil. Since I had no belt, I wanted to check if the hydro works, put the drill on it and she seems to work fine. 

 

Finnaly I removed the shaker plate underneat the engine., like @Thor27 mentioned. And the enigne shft is sitting in the right place now.

 

Tomorrow a is new wiring and hopefully the engine is fine as well. 

Edited July 4, 2021 by Maxwell-8

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

So I did a rewire on the C175, thicker wires, bigger solenoide, new ignition switch.

 

All connections are crimped and soldered, then shrinktubed. New starter use powerfull and gets that engine spinning fast.

But I am not getting any power on on the charging cables, no power on the rectifier so the flywheel will have to come off.

 

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

Got the correct belt in the mail today, but have to issues.

first up, I moved the engine of the shaker plate and this oilpan didn't had any treads nor holes in the bottom for the right engine to chassis bolts. She is only hooked up with 2 bolts now.

Second, the engine sits a hair to low looking at the belt path. 

 

This may explain the belt slipping of the tensioner pulley

 

 

 

Luckely the tranny works like it should, immidiate response and the up and down lift work leak-free. I was very scared for that part. since parts are hard to find, and everything was covered in sandy sand.

[rjg854 11,361]

You could use some J bolts on the side that over hangs the frame.   

[Handy Don 12,227]

1 hour ago, rjg854 said:

You could use some J bolts on the side that over hangs the frame.   

Onan's use a fixed (i.e. non-shaker) engine plate with separate bolts for engine and frame to solve the frame offset. That also adds a bit of vertical displacement.

[Gregor 4,846]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

That also adds a bit of vertical displacement.

I have my C-125 Automatic, and my unfinished C-175 Automatic in my garage. I can't speak for the Onan engine, but the 17HP Kohler, and shaker plate, has been removed from my C-175, and replaced with a B&S 18HP Twin, with a mounting plate bolted directly to the frame. My C-125 still has the shaker plate. The rubber mounts have been replaced with the machined aluminum mounts. The vertical difference between the bottom of the oil pan, and the tractor frame, is less than 1/2". As best I can measure it anyway.  The belt guard still fits fine, but on these tractors, the belt guard does not bolt to the motor itself.

[Handy Don 12,227]

We are assuming that the engine is in the correct place fore-aft and the correct drive belt is installed, right?

If the belt is too long and the engine too far forward, the belt will look low.

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

Out with the M16 and in with the kt16 which purrs like a kitten. it is a series 1 but doesn't burn nor leak a drop of oil.

The engine block is heavier then me, 70kg/155pounds, I am 60kg/160pound.My back didn't like that to much.

The engine bolted right in, the belt was an oem size, so fits perfect as well. 

the engine looks like it has find his home!

[Handy Don 12,227]

2 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said:

the engine looks like it has find his home

Oh yeah, that's a good look. Glad it went smoothly.

BTW, start thinking about a hoist!

[kpinnc 12,048]

Maxwell-8 I am glad you did this. It looks really nice!

 

I have a series I KT-17, and a solid center console and frame from a C-125. I'm just missing the black hood...

 

Might be a future project.

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

Finished off the engine mounting today, Cleaned the PTO, and replaced the pto back-plate whit one that still has clutch material on it

Only wiring an fuel to keep this machine from running and working! Already have a mow job for it.

The new belt was thight on there, and the Idle pulley just has to put some tension on it.

 

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

PAR36 lamps are getting hard to find, over here they were mostly used for disco lights, but since everything is converting to LED, for the dynamic colours and the limited 100hours burning time doesn't help it either. So these lamps are desappearing in the stores but also online. these where the only ones I could find. The glass is just plain no distorting, but I think they will look good on the C-175. 

They just arrived from the country of @Tractorhead.... Germany! 

12.8V 30W each

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Nice lamps! looking cool with the plain glass.

 

 

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

Oh boy, I like the look of them a lot!

 

Edited October 28, 2021 by Maxwell-8

[SylvanLakeWH 25,557]

Looking great!

 

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

41 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Looking great!

 

Slowly but surely coming along! Want her to be technical in tiptop shape, before dismantling to get a full repaint.

I first turn this one down, but then decided to buy it anyway, cause it was cheap and I would be a good one for selling again. Now I have fallen in love with it. Like the look of the beefy black hood but also the big engine and the hydro with hydraulic lift.

Edited October 28, 2021 by Maxwell-8

[oliver2-44 9,750]

On 6/14/2021 at 3:15 AM, Maxwell-8 said:

@Maxwell-8 I’m my Zc81 had a steering wheel broke just like that. I got the center steel piece off the tractor and sandblasted it clean. Cleaned the inside of the steering wheel halves and coated them with JB Weld epoxy.  Clamped it together and good as new. It’s been in use 3-4 years and you have to look hard to see it’s been repaired. Also, add some black spray can enamel paint to the epoxy as you mix it to color the JB Aeld epoxy black. 

 

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

Didn't have spark, taught I had a bad coil. So @953 nut informed me it could be a bad condenser.(thanksss!) So I swapped on a NOS one. 

 

Used a sparkplug I had laying around to test for spark. Still no spark... Until I touched the sparkplugstip 

I got shocked... now she wants to fire but the starter is no turning over fast enough. Will have to try it with a new battery or I will be rebuilding the starter.

 

[ebinmaine 67,497]

1 hour ago, Maxwell-8 said:

new battery or

Also important to remember that these are DC systems. 

Bad ground = no circuit. 

 

Might be a good idea to remove each wire and clean the end of the wire along with its own mounting point. 

 

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

Just now, ebinmaine said:

Also important to remember that these are DC systems. 

Bad ground = no circuit. 

 

Might be a good idea to remove each wire and clean the end of the wire along with its own mounting point. 

 

For sure, I am half way of doing a full rewire. Still plenty of grounds to be cleaned! 

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

Didn't had spark because of a bad ignition switch that would cut spark if you turned the key to far in the cranking position. 

 

Wasn't giving any fuel to the engine. 

Dropped the bowl, which was full, but al the rest was pretty gunked up

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

And guess what! 

 

 

She finally runs with the correct type engine. Hydro is super strong and so is the engine. Bit of smoke on startup but it disappears immediately.

 

She has come a long way in 10 months.

Edited March 6, 2022 by Maxwell-8