Sailman 1,291 #1 Posted May 19, 2021 I have the 36 inch side discharge mower deck and removed spindle for bearing replacement. This is the odd one with grease zerts and the shaft that comes up from the bottom. Removed the snap ring and CANNOT get the bearings out. I have heated the housing with a torch. Beat on the bearings from both directions and cannot get them out. About ready to cut them up with a dremel, if that's even possible. Don't want to damage the housing. Any suggestions???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,871 #2 Posted May 19, 2021 (edited) Is it a double D shaft and steel housing? If so it is an assembly that come out through the top. More info would help Take a few pics Edited May 19, 2021 by JoeM 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #3 Posted May 19, 2021 yes, post pics. heat and a hammer usually do the trick. The deck i did over the winter didn't even require any heat to remove the bearings. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyredhorse 295 #4 Posted May 19, 2021 if you can get a grip on it I use a big c clamp put pressure on bearings while heating. wd 40 and heat repeatedly it will eventually break loose 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sailman 1,291 #5 Posted May 20, 2021 (edited) I have attached some pictures. First picture is from bottom which had a snap ring I removed. Second is from the top. I assumed one would drift the bearings out from the top with snap ring removed. I have tried from both ends. Barely moves. Heated and beat the hell out of them! Starting to get crack in the housing now so that's not working...:( Edited May 20, 2021 by Sailman wrong picture Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyredhorse 295 #6 Posted May 20, 2021 there has to be a lip on back side of both bearings to hold them in place.so they each have to come out side there on.heat up around outside of spindle get it red hot to expand spindle use a pipe or good bolt to beat them out from inside.keep heating let it cool try again next day. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sailman 1,291 #7 Posted May 20, 2021 Problem is there is a spacer in between the 2 bearings. No way to get to the inside of the bearing with a bolt, pipe or punch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
76c12091520h 3,608 #8 Posted May 20, 2021 (edited) You need to get in there and get that spacer off center, then you can use a punch to beat out the bearing from the inside . Edited May 20, 2021 by 76c12091520h 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyredhorse 295 #9 Posted May 20, 2021 ahhh chisel the center out of one of the bearings see if u can pull spacer out maybe?but then you have to get the outer bearing out tho 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sailman 1,291 #10 Posted May 20, 2021 That sounds like my best option. Will use my dremel to make a couple relief cuts and chisel to try to get the one bearing out. Then remove the spacer and should be able to get a good bite on driving the other one out....the correct way. I suspect I deformed the bearings by beating the wrong way..... Sometimes I just get it backwards....lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sailman 1,291 #11 Posted May 20, 2021 Appreciate all the good advice from folks responding here! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sailman 1,291 #12 Posted May 20, 2021 Amazing what PB Blaster and advice from this forum can help me accomplish! Used the angle technique with punch and both bearings came out with reasonable force. 2 more questions before I assemble. There is a part # 106070 called a "spacer seal" which goes above the top bearing and under the seal. It seems to have 2 notches. Didn't notice orientation when I removed the old one. Do the notches go up or down?? Also the top bearing is sealed on both sides. I saw where someone recommended removing the inner seal so grease can get to the bearing (I have the zerts on the shaft). Do you suggest I remove the inner seal or leave as is? Bottom bearing does have an open side. Thought I would ask here before I reassemble. Thanks for all advice!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sailman 1,291 #13 Posted May 20, 2021 Picture of spacer seal attached. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,592 #14 Posted May 20, 2021 @Sailman, gotta do it , glairing pictures of the wide rubber seals on those bearings , easily popped off the new bearings , allowing easy wipe out of original grease , replace with , LUCAS GREEN HEAVY DUTY GREASE , POLYUREA BASED , WITH A 560 MELT POINT , WILL NOT FAIL ,https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10330-X-Tra-Grease/dp/B000IG5QOQ/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkZiFBhD9ARIsAGxFX8DIY3PpFpJ8s45GoXTU3y54ZZDnmQRuiPX4ZpEvg5xLqXT1VBfGBp8aAvInEALw_wcB&hvadid=410042472700&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9003310&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7210923337889018151&hvtargid=kwd-33803444467&hydadcr=7497_11110819&keywords=lucas+heavy+duty+grease&qid=1621536699&sr=8-5, this is easy to do on a bearing replacement , all my decks and same pto drive bearings, have been done , no noise , no failures , just solid smooth . walmart has it for $5, just my experience ,pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyredhorse 295 #15 Posted May 20, 2021 good the tooth is pulled lol 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sailman 1,291 #16 Posted May 21, 2021 Thanks to all the advice from folks on this forum, parts from Brian, and patience from above....looks like I have another survivor. Thanks to all! 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David T. DeVivo 0 #17 Posted June 29, 2021 Just joined the Forum and visitor for a long time. 1973 36" 3-blade mower deck spindle replaced 12 years ago with the bearing assembly 103119, with a double D shaft and both seals in the assembly. Lower bearing destroyed and needed new spindle assembly. Ok, I found one . The assembly replacement is not as easy as I had hoped. The pulley come right off and the shaft was not far behind. It just about dropped out the housing bottom leaving the top bearing in place which popped out easily. BUT, it took me a minute to realize the new assembly of course would not simply slip in the bore. The old Assembly sleeve is still in the bore, OH MY. I can see it must come out the top of the housing ( Part NO.8389 ) , because of the lip in the casting is there on the blade end. But I don't have a really good idea of the process or any process. I am innovative, no problem, but man, do not want to hunt down a housing without some advise from one who has had the same issue, and I think one of the other two housings could use a replacement as well. So, I think the magic word here is Help, please. Dave Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,037 #18 Posted June 29, 2021 So all that is left is the outer race? Have an electric welder? Run a bead of weld inside the race starting as far in as you can reach into the opening to the outer end. Turn around and do the other end. The weld will shrink the race. Let it cool and it will likely fall out. If not run another bead on the other side. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David T. DeVivo 0 #19 Posted June 30, 2021 Gary, thanks for the speedy note. No welder, so probably must drive it out some how. Yes, only the outer race is in there. Never thought on this sleeve as a race as it is some 2" long with the cheap bearings at each end. I could find a local machine shop to cut the sleeve away , or most of the wall thickness and get the rest out easily. Or use my dremel to put a deep groove in several spots radially to drive it out somehow. Would torching either the sleeve or the housing do me any good, ya think ? I wish a no-seize was used when these were replaced 12 years ago. Thanks, again....miss Canada business trips. Dave Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,037 #20 Posted June 30, 2021 Will guess the housing is aluminum and expands faster than steel. Try heating the side of the housing with it sitting horizontal but not for too long. You do not want the bearing to heat up and expand. Heat rises so it will migrate to the bearing slowly. Have the big hammer ready. Good luck. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,199 #21 Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) 17 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: Heat rises Heated AIR rises. When heat is being CONDUCTED through a material the heat energy travels in all directions from hotter to cooler. Edited June 30, 2021 by Jeff-C175 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David T. DeVivo 0 #22 Posted June 30, 2021 So, Garry with 2 R's, the housing is iron and the race bottoms out at the blade end against a cast in lip, and must be driven out of the top of the housing. As a prep to heat and hammer, would a lengthy soak of the whole unit help? I have used PB to get the four housing retaining nuts loosened up and was easy peasy with a break bar. Thanks thus far. Dave Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,037 #23 Posted June 30, 2021 A soak sure does not hurt. Longer the better. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dreamcatcher 102 #24 Posted May 27, 2023 On 5/19/2021 at 10:27 PM, 76c12091520h said: You need to get in there and get that spacer off center, then you can use a punch to beat out the bearing from the inside . I realize this is an old thread. I have a 48 inch SD deck that I am rebuilding. I believe i have the same spindles. This picture shows how to move teh spacer aside to drive out the 'top' bearing. Is teh bottom bearing driven out by removing the spacer and driving it out from the top? Thank you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
76c12091520h 3,608 #25 Posted May 27, 2023 1 hour ago, Dreamcatcher said: I realize this is an old thread. I have a 48 inch SD deck that I am rebuilding. I believe i have the same spindles. This picture shows how to move teh spacer aside to drive out the 'top' bearing. Is teh bottom bearing driven out by removing the spacer and driving it out from the top? Thank you. Yep 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites