C-81 under seat tank removal??

[twiisted71 50]

Pretty sure I"ve got crud in my tank and want to pull it so I can slosh it around and pour out of the filler cap.  Before I go crazy and dismantle the darned thing I was hoping y'all could tell me the easiest way to go about it.  Hoping there is a secret push button I don't know about that will just release it, no tools req'd!!!  Changed headgasket, rebuilt starter, and replaced starter lead over the past two days.  Bounced around some rough places in the yard today and no fuel.  It did it once last year and I just ran some wire in the petcock and unplugged it.  However if I'm out of town and the missus is using it I'd rather not get that call because I didn't just do the job right.  I did run all new fuel line and installed a large see-thru filter over the winter.   Yep the fuel pump is working.  She's sucked the filter dry and, yes there is fuel in the tank.

 

[Thor27 769]

pull the fender, then there will be 2  5/16 bolts in the front, and one on each side from underneath.

[R Scheer 502]

Some have a strainer on the tank shut off valve, the part that goes into the tank.  I've had that clog, ended up getting annoyed and removed the strainer and put in an inline filter instead.  It had the same symptoms,  intermittent loss of fuel.  Haven't had an issue since then.

[twiisted71 50]

I know I'm asking to be spoon fed, but is there a diagram that shows an exploded view of how this thing comes apart?  I have a busted back and being able to just get it done vs staring at it for 15 minutes trying to decide what all needs to be pulled can be the difference in getting something accomplished vs having to go lay back down before I can even turn a wrench.

[twiisted71 50]

3 minutes ago, R Scheer said:

Some have a strainer on the tank shut off valve, the part that goes into the tank.  I've had that clog, ended up getting annoyed and removed the strainer and put in an inline filter instead.  It had the same symptoms,  intermittent loss of fuel.  Haven't had an issue since then.

RS I've been a little leery of popping that petcock out for fear of tearing up the grommet or breaking the valve.  I'd like to just install a 90* bulkhead fitting and install an inline shut off valve but haven't looked into whether I can reach that hole in the tank through the filler neck to be able to put a back up nut on it.

 

[Stormin 9,981]

  You'll have to remove the seat and fender. 4 hex screws for each. Don't forget to disconnect any wires for seat switch and rear lights, also fuel pipe. Two hex screws at the front of the tank on top. Just slacken off. Two underneath. Remove then tank will slide back.

[ranger 1,750]

8 hours ago, twiisted71 said:

RS I've been a little leery of popping that petcock out for fear of tearing up the grommet or breaking the valve.  I'd like to just install a 90* bulkhead fitting and install an inline shut off valve but haven't looked into whether I can reach that hole in the tank through the filler neck to be able to put a back up nut on it.

 

If you remove the tank strainer, and keep the original fuel valve, solder/epoxy a short length of copper/brass tube in place of the strainer. Drill a few small cross holes in the tube. If you just have a “Hole” in the bottom of the tank for fuel to pass through, any debris, grass etc, (always a possibility when filling from cans especially with the **** that is sold as gas/petrol nowadays!), could be sucked over the valve opening causing issues, (after engine stops and suction from pump relaxes, debris “floats” away and everything is ok, until the next time). A short vertical tube with cross holes will prevent this from happening, there will always be an “opening for fuel to pass through. The same with a bulkhead fitting, drill a couple of cross holes in the leg that will go inside the tank. AND fit an external FILTER!

 

Doug.

 

p.s. Forgot to add, “pinch” the open end of the tube to slightly close it, to stop any larger pieces of debris from entering via gravity. On tanks with top mounted stack pipes this last is not necessary.

Edited May 14, 2021 by ranger

[R Scheer 502]

@twiisted71

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/75083-gas-valve-shut-off-on-bottom-of-tank/

 

The link above should have some useful info for you.  Doesn't say how to remove the tank but does have pictures and links for the gas valve and how to reinstall and oart numbers.  Others have already covered tank removal.

 

[Achto 27,605]

8 hours ago, twiisted71 said:

RS I've been a little leery of popping that petcock out for fear of tearing up the grommet or breaking the valve.

 

Replacement grommet are available. Check your local hardware store or small engine shop. They were used by many manufacturers and are all pretty much the same. Here is a link to them at the jungle store as well. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/HIPA-Bushing-Grommet-Specific-Tecumseh/dp/B0794W3R8Z/ref=sr_1_7_sspa?dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm_Kjk5bJ8AIVU_vjBx1KDwMCEAAYAiAAEgIMkPD_BwE&hvadid=178319321648&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9018899&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7741916821923603643&hvtargid=kwd-4096621064&hydadcr=28665_10189487&keywords=gas+tank+grommet&qid=1620995333&sr=8-7-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE3MjVKM09INzZXNVUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTEwMzMxODgzRFZLUTNGVVhCVURLJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MjU3MzgzMFBBRzVNOE5IOVRTJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== 

 

You can also get valve & grommet combo kits.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Generators-Craftsman-Coleman-Generac/dp/B07HR6K547/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm_Kjk5bJ8AIVU_vjBx1KDwMCEAAYAiAAEgIMkPD_BwE&hvadid=178319321648&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9018899&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7741916821923603643&hvtargid=kwd-4096621064&hydadcr=28665_10189487&keywords=gas+tank+grommet&qid=1620995586&sr=8-3

Edited May 14, 2021 by Achto

[c-series don 8,723]

I would just order a new grommet and valve like Achto said. I’ve done this many times,it’s a simple easy fix.Also once you have the fender off to take the tank out it’s only two more bolts to take out the tank support. Those bolts go into the transmission so you want to clean around there first so no debris will go in the holes. Then you can take the tank out and flip it upside down to remove the two bolts that actually go into the tank. You said that you have a bad back so this way you can remove these bolts without laying on the floor trying to feel for them. I would also take this time to thoroughly clean the area around the transmission. 

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

16 minutes ago, c-series don said:

I would just order a new grommet and valve like Achto said.

 

 

The old grommet is likely well past it's prime anyway.  Replace the shutoff as well.  It makes no sense at all to NOT replace it.  You don't need to pull the tank to do that.  Just pulling the shutoff and grommet will likely get the 'crud' out of the tank since it's probably all sitting at the bottom around the valve/strainer.  You can put a bucket underneath to collect the fuel and crud still in the tank.  Maybe a funnel.  Strain it through a coffee filter if you want to save the fuel.  DO THIS OUTSIDE! and NOT ON ASPHALT or good grass!

Edited May 14, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[EricF 589]

Do be careful when removing the hex bolts -- if the area under the fender pan hasn't been kept clean, the crud builds up, holds moisture, and you can wind up with rusted/frozen bolts. I had to drill out a couple on my 520H. Replacements are easy to get at any hardware store that stocks small nuts/bolts/screws -- Wheel Horse used standard fasteners virtually everywhere they could.

 

The only tool-less things on a Wheel Horse are the Attach-A-Matic hitches for implements and the hairpin clips used on the PTO and other pivots that are routinely disassembled. Everything else uses typical hand tools -- SAE (US-size) wrenches, sockets, and a few Allen (internal hex head) screws. The really nice thing is that you can pretty much eyeball everything on a Wheel Horse and see how it all goes together or comes apart. The forum here has a huge amount of service and parts diagrams in the manuals section, too.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,047]

Can not find good illustrations of the process.

Remove seat and then rear fender pan

https://www.partstree.com/models/81-08k801-c-81-toro-lawn-tractor-1978/sheet-metal-and-covers-20/

I think 2 bolts hold the tank in.

https://www.partstree.com/models/81-08k801-c-81-toro-lawn-tractor-1978/fuel-and-exhaust-system-12/

 

I am always amazed at how much junk is in a tank. Use hot soapy water and a good shaking to loosen stuff up. Many clean water rinses and left in the sun to dry out. With the grommet out and cap off it does not take long to dry.

 

Garry

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

4 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

I think 2 bolts hold the tank in.

 

Four.  Two at the front, and two on the bottom.

 

  

 

Edited May 14, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Stormin 9,981]

 I looked for something like that for him earlier. Where did you find it, Jeff?

 

[peter lena 8,634]

@twiisted71, removed a number  of tanks  a related tubing, once the fender is off everything is apparent , would suggest that if you replace the fuel on/off valve , to use dielectric grease  on the grommets with a solid steady push onto place, the grease makes it easy . pete

[twiisted71 50]

Alright!!!!  Its done!!  8 bolts for fenders (4 for seat bracket and 4 under seat in middle of fender pan).   4 bolts for tank (two hold downs at front and 2 that bolt in from the bottom above the axles).  Of course when I pulled the petcock the grommet tore.  The screen was essentially gone, except for what was left in the bore that was doing nothing more than causing more restriction.  For around $10 my local hardware store had an exact replacement valve and grommet.  Tank was NASTY, but now its sparkly inside.  All buttoned up and running like a champ again!  Thank you so much for the help.  I know it is a simple task but its nice to have others confirm it vs. there being one hidden fastener and ending up cracking the tank or something equally catastrophic!  Oh yeah forgot to mention.  I just used a little axle grease for the grommet and valve = EASY.  Fit like socks on a rooster!

 

 

Edited May 14, 2021 by twiisted71

[tunahead72 2,424]

14 hours ago, twiisted71 said:

... is there a diagram that shows an exploded view of how this thing comes apart? ...

 

Congratulations on getting that done!  A lot of us understand and literally feel your pain when we're working on these things.

 

Future reference, the diagrams that @gwest_ca and @Jeff-C175 posted are from PartsTree.com, which is generally a pretty good source of information, although they can be a bit hard to read.  You can also find parts diagrams and parts lists here on RedSquare in the Manuals section.  I personally find copies of the actual printed parts lists easier to read, if you're lucky you might be able to find one of them here.

 

Can you find a plate or tag on your tractor with the model number?  It might be on the rear fender or somewhere else near the seat, or maybe on the dash, and would look something like 81-08K801.  That would tell us the model year for your tractor, and then you could find an exact parts list and diagrams here.  There's also separate lists and diagrams for the engine and all the attachments that were available for the tractor.

 

P.S.:  How's your back feeling?

 

Edited May 14, 2021 by tunahead72

[twiisted71 50]

Yes I've got that serial number somewhere.  My C-81 is a '79 IIRC.  I've tried searching through the manuals on this site but just don't ever seem to have any luck finding what I"m looking for.  So far as my back......... I'm on the couch on a heating pad watching terrible old movies!!!!  I use impact guns and drills with socket drivers in them to speed things up to reduce the amount of time I have to be up moving around as much as I can.  Everyone says it, let me repeat it.  Take care of your back.

 

Here is a shot of my girl.  at some point I am going to try to put a set of rib tractor tires up front as the current ones are so old the cracks are1/8-3/16 wide!!!  I'm trying to find a set of the old narrow front wheels but no luck yet.  Not many WHs made it to the South.

 

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

8 hours ago, Stormin said:

 I looked for something like that for him earlier. Where did you find it, Jeff?

 

 

Hot Tunahead already answered, but in case you didn't see it;

 

Partstree.com

 

@tunahead72

 

Edited May 15, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[tunahead72 2,424]

13 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

... Hot Tunahead ...

 

 

Norm @Stormin would have seen the PartsTree watermark eventually. 

 

Edited May 15, 2021 by tunahead72

[posifour11 723]

4 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Hot Tunahead already answered, but in case you didn't see it;

 

Partstree.com

 

@tunahead72

I saw them once. The "further festival" in kck not long after Garcia died. 

[Stormin 9,981]

10 hours ago, twiisted71 said:

 My C-81 is a '79 

 

Same rears as mine. though mine was built in Belgium.

 

[peter lena 8,634]

superlube dielectric grease , used to regularly use this in our vacuum systems , its also rated as a food safe related lubricant , that we used in all our process set ups. will not harden or dry out yet keeps its ability to let rubber move and settle in place with binding . very good in todays plastic world , https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Silicone-High-Dielectric-Vacuum/dp/B08YK8JP1K  , shop around for pricing , but its a great rubber to just about anything slick fit , like w/h hoods to dash area with a vinyl door edge guard , smooth and easy , also hood rubber hold down area , pete

[JCM 9,177]

Have a tube at all times in my Plumbing hand tool box for work. Great stuff @peter lena