Show off your hub-puller

[tmix61 81]

8 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

The hub on a D Series can be a real bear.  The Flange of the hub is thin relative to the long length of the hub body (and the surface area for rust to hold on to)  You have to pull from the back.  It bent the thick wall sq tubes but it finally came off

 

 

I happen to run across your picture last night I don't understand how you got that puller behind the axle did you cut the piece of plastic tube off so you can sneak it around the axle I don't see any cutouts to go around the axle with the plates that are not painted. What am I missing in this picture? If it was you and the hub was broken that much would you just take a cut off wheel and put cuts in it and chisel off and break the rest if you look real close at my broken hub it is very very grainy like the cast wasn't made very well. Kind of lost and I'm sure a hub won't be cheap!!

[pfrederi 17,739]

There was no plastic sleeve on mine as it had turning brakes (which made things harder)  no cut outs just lined the plates up with the bump outs on the back of the hub.  (they have threaded hole that mount the turning brakes.  You are going to have to cut yours off and get a replacement.  Check with A to Z tractor in the vendors section here.

 

 

 

Edited January 14, 2023 by pfrederi

[OutdoorEnvy 1,522]

So an update on mine, from post #14 in this thread... Seems it was only good for one hub.  Casting didn't hold up on the second one.  I'll be looking to make another one out of something...

 

[Bill D 1,920]

 

 

Any idea who made this. I missed the eBay auction.  I'd like to make one, or something similar.

Edited April 29 by Bill D

[peter lena 8,625]

@Maxwell-8  bearing separator  style / type  is the best for solid strength  against strength , flange pull , its center mounting , is its  strongest point , the outer  flange bolt on spot is its weakest , any flexing at all , will  break the flange . as also stated , you should start  days or more out , to start your  kroil  type lubrication  soaking . like to remove  set bolt , to insure  area , when you are  strength against  strength ,  with that bearing separator , and a breaker bar , 6 pt. socket  , the leverage will make it easy . just my own experience, pete   

[kpinnc 12,023]

Almost all of my tractors have hub spacers, which I have found very helpful pulling hubs. The pull is evenly spread out, and the spacers support the hub nicely. A "spare" spacer works well even if you don't use them. All of my tractors use the 5 on 4.5 pattern. 

 

I use an old hub and drill the holes out to slip over the wheel studs. The lug nuts go all the way around, and are pulled tight against the spacer.  The hubs tend to come off easily by comparison to every other method I've used. 

 

[peter lena 8,625]

@ri702bill   @pfrederi your bearing separator pictures says it all , it brings the most strength  to the flange , axel fit spot , another thing  , i is the   DISIMILAR  METALS INVOLVED , over time , with out any creeping lubricant , they bond themselves t together . a cast metal anything , is like an open sponge , for moisture , enhancement , always get after any rusty spot , for an initial attempt  to get it moving , typically takes days / weeks , to attempt a move .   rather have an oil stain / spread than , frozen metal any day . keep experimenting , pete 

[ohiofarmer 3,265]

On 4/9/2022 at 11:28 PM, oliver2-44 said:

My C160 has had the right rear seal leaking for 2 years. Last winter I tried to pull the hub by it never moved and I stopped before I broke it. Figured a year of leak soaking would help. So I rigged this up using a 2nd hub to reinforce the one being pulled. I put nuts as spacers between the 2 hubs to fill in for the raised centers of the hubs. Initially I cranked my center pulling bolt as tight as I dared and walked away for a while. It had moved when I returned and came on off from there. 

 

   I see something right here. If you are concerned that the original hub could fracture, more spacers could be added and a c clamp or an f clamp could be added to spread the load some more between the threaded rods. Or you could also add oversize heavy washers or some drilled half inch bars on the back side of the hub...-ohiofarmer

    

    i see something right here. If you are still afraid

[oliver2-44 9,746]

10 hours ago, ohiofarmer said:

    

    i see something right here. If you are still afraid

No, thankfully it moved, then kept moving.

[Bill D 1,920]

Made this hub puller tonight.  Used an old hub with a damaged keyway as a template.  Used a U-bolt nut and the puller screw from my pitman arm puller.  Came out well.

Edited May 19 by Bill D

[peter lena 8,625]

@Bill D  think your very solid back up plate and back up spacers , eliminated the cast flange flex , when you are solid , over strong , the mechanical advantage , gets the edge .  perfect visual example of , a solid move point , no flexing . good job , pete

[Bill D 1,920]

4 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Bill D  think your very solid back up plate and back up spacers , eliminated the cast flange flex , when you are solid , over strong , the mechanical advantage , gets the edge .  perfect visual example of , a solid move point , no flexing . good job , pete

Thanks Pete.  I'll definitely be using it as shown in the photos.  I don't trust my weld enough to flip it the other way, and my welder isn't strong enough for proper penetration on steel that thick.  Welding the nut on is more for placement.

Edited May 21 by Bill D

[cleat 5,952]

Luckily for me one hub pulled easily due to a seal leak on this spare rear end.

The other hub was stuck tight.

The set screws were removed yesterday and Kroil sprayed in.

I used 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolts between the two hubs sandwiching a snap-on puller.

I used the flat adapter on the puller screw.

A small impact gun was used to prevent breakage of anything.

Success...Both hubs now off.

Taper punch removed the woodruff keys from the axle shafts.

 

 

 

[Kelsey 91]

There were some great ideas on how to build a hub puller from this thread and from

a YouTube video ' DIY Hub Puller for TORO Wheel Horse.' 

Here's mine (along with follow up photos): 

 

It broke a few times, but the hot glue gun helped out.

Edited August 5 by Kelsey
correction

[peter lena 8,625]

@Maxwell-8   @ri702bill   has what  you want ,  BEARING SPLITTER , pulling on the strongest flange hold point , thats where you  have strength against strength , a flange bolt on area is the weakest , pull point , thats why they regularly crack / break off . also get some KROIL or  KNOCK R LOOSE penetrants in that , axel / flange , lock bolt , makes things easier , pete 

[Kelsey 91]

 Before I get into this, I want to yell out a big THANK YOU to all the Wheel Horse Forum members 

who in one form or another contributed to this thread or elsewhere with

their ideas.

Again, THANK YOU!

Kelsey

 

 My first photo in this thread, was to be a bit humorous because WH tractor owners have been in the past

a bit frustrated in one way or another with WH maintenance. I know I have been. The wooden 

model was presented to the fabricator shop along with a well detailed set of plans. The fabricator

laughed at the model. He said scaled plans were easy to read and understand. Almost 2 weeks

later was when the hub puller was ready. Back in early July, I started soaking the hubs with Kroil

in all vertical/horizontal positions possible. I wanted to try this hub puller style because I didn't want

to break the cast hub.  I just couldn't feature the frustrations I'd had if I did.

 

The frame is 1/2" stock with a welded 1-1/8" nut along with an 8" fine thread bolt.

Also, 3/4"x8" flat bars were drilled out on center to 1 1/8" to wrap around the shaft prior to final assembly.

 

First photo, the 3/4" stock had about a 1/16" between the transmission and the hub. The Mapp gas

torch was on target for almost an hour. The 1/2" plated tweaked a little bit along with 3/4" stock.

Second photo, hub is slowly moving.

Third photo, torch back on 30 minutes or so and then moved.

Fourth photo, hub just about off.

Fifth photo, different angle.

Sixth photo, hub's off.

Seventh photo, 3/4" stock is tweaked. Reversed on 2nd hub removal.

Eighth photo, part's group photo.

Ninth photo, overall picture

 Same sequence for 2nd hub removal. Also, sprayed penetrating oil on bolt prior to

be torqued. Each side was ~ 2 hours by hand torquing along with 6-pound hammer

for persuasion. Next day or so, I think the keyways popped right out because of the Kroil.

 The only modification I'd like done is to replace the nut and bolt with an 3/4" ACME rod and

nuts. It appears that the bolt is galled.

 I enjoyed doing this arduous task out in the 90' weather along with those treacherous

mosquitos biting me in those places where I couldn't reach. My bride helped me out too.

Man, I love her! 

[Toby Stockman 70]

here is the one i made 3/4 plate with a handle cant wait to try it out

[lynnmor 7,305]

3 hours ago, Toby Stockman said:

here is the one i made 3/4 plate with a handle cant wait to try it out

 

 

That will develop considerable force and likely enough to break the weaker hubs.  Be sure to grease the threads and tip.  For those hubs that have space behind them, the idea that @Kelsey used is a good option, especially with the frail hubs he pictured.  The hub puller that I made and posted early in this thread is much like yours and works great but it would be expensive to build and it also would take good judgment in how much force can a hub can take.

[ebinmaine 67,484]

I have an extremely strong puller made by one of us fine Redsquare folk. 

I've used it quite a few times and had great success. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Like anything, friction points wear. 

When I bought it, we talked about the center bolt and what to do for replacement when the time came. 

It was built with a 3/4 coarse rod because that's what was handy. I've had a few particularly tough hubs and the first two threads are galled. 

Mind you... my breaker bar is FIFTY ONE inches long. 

 

I've ordered a piece of 3/4" fine thread hardened rod along with matching hardness nuts that are wider than average for extra strength via more threads holding. 

 

 

I've also had some issues in the past with the earlier "five star" thinner hubs breaking even though they've been held with 5, 7/16" bolts threaded through the lug holes. 

I'm making a set of plates to get behind the hub of 6 and 8 speeds. 

 

Started with two pieces of scrap I had laying around. 

One piece is 1/4". The other is one guage thicker. 

 

 

Drew circles as large as possible given the scrap size. About 7"  

 

I used my portable bandsaw to cut them out. 

 

 

Traced the 5 lug holes using the black puller for the pattern.  

 

 

 

 

I'll cut a notch 1 1/8" wide between 2 of the lug holes. To use them I'll set the plates over the axle, rotate by 2 holes, and bolt everything all together.  

Threaded rod will go from the front of the puller, through the hub, through the plates,  and be bolted to the back of the plates.  

 

[Racinbob 11,077]

Something I should have done decades ago is build a good hub puller. I'm struggling on the hubs on the Dino C-121. I put all the pressure within the limits of a three jaw puller I felt safe with. With the badly leaking seals I was hoping they would come off. The brake and drive came off easily but not the hubs. I logged on to search for ideas on what others built and this thread came up. Perfect! The type I've been planning but just never did starts with a 1/2" steel plate. I found a round plate on Ebay and went ahead and ordered it. When the shipping confirmation came it was from "Make it Ring Targets" and it hit me. 6\" AR500 Steel Gong Target, 1/2\" Thickness - 66538 | Rural King I never thought of that. Reasonable price and readily available. 

I had already soaked it for a couple weeks and I'll keep doing that while I wait on the steel. It should arrive about the same time as the new seals and brake lining. 

 

[ebinmaine 67,484]

7 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

Make it Ring Targets

 

Excellent price for a hunk of steel

[Racinbob 11,077]

4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Excellent price for a hunk of steel

 

That's what I thought too Eric. I've looked at the steel targets at Rural King countless times and never gave it a thought to use one for the puller. Fortunately I don't have to feel too bad because the price I paid was about the same with shipping. 

[Racinbob 11,077]

Gadzooks!! Got my hub puller finished. I went with a center bolt from one of my jawed pullers and the threaded thingy as a nut. Five 3/8" grade 8 bolts holding it to the hub. Should pop right off with an inpact gun right? Nope. I've got a LOT of tension on it right now. I don't have a clue how much more I can apply before the hubs will be in danger. I've had some stubborn stuff finally just pop off by leaving them sit a while with the tension on it.  

 

Anyone broken these heavy hubs pulling like this? I may have to get something behind the hubs but I'm not sure what I would do within the limitations of the tools I have. 

Edited October 20 by Racinbob

[953 nut 55,221]

19 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

leaving them sit a while with the tension on it

Tapping the neck of the flange with a hammer while under tension can be helpful. When it decides to move it will sound like a gunshot and have only moved a 1/16" or so but it is a start.

22 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

get something behind the hubs but I'm not sure what I would do within the limitations of the tools I have.

I guess you could do the slots in a pair of the targets like @ebinmaine is planning and drill ten more holes. That should save a hub.           

[ebinmaine 67,484]

59 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

Gadzooks!! Got my hub puller finished. I went with a center bolt from one of my jawed pullers and the threaded thingy as a nut. Five 3/8" grade 8 bolts holding it to the hub. Should pop right off with an inpact gun right? Nope. I've got a LOT of tension on it right now. I don't have a clue how much more I can apply before the hubs will be in danger. I've had some stubborn stuff finally just pop off by leaving them sit a while with the tension on it

 

  .  Anyone broken these heavy hubs pulling like this? I may have to get something behind the hubs but I'm not sure what I would do within the limitations of the tools I have. 

 

We've never broken a thicker HD hub with the 5 bolt style puller you're showing.  

But... I'm SURE it could be done. 

 

I usually put max tension applied from my Ridgid cordless 1/2" drive impact and leave it set for a bit. 

Heat 🔥

Cool to room temp. 

Repeat.

Repeat. 

Repeat. 

 

As needed for a few days. 

 

Spray (your favorite penetrating oil that isn't PB)  in the set screw hole(s) several times in between.  

 

 

If it doesn't move after a week or so I'll put the 51" long 3/4" drive breaker bar on the job. 

By then something goes.....