Gregor 4,847 #1 Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) Well, there it is, such as it is. Gonna need a little TLC. It is a Briggs & Stratton, 18HP I/C Commercial engine. I tried to find serial number tags on the engine, but haven't yet. I was hoping for a Kohler, but I can live with it. As little as I know about Kohlers, I know even less, about B/S. I hope someone does. I have a battery charger on it, and I pulled and cleaned the plugs up a bit. I will hook a clean fuel line to it, and see what it does. "It ran when parked" That was last spring, so I was told. The numbers say 17KS02 - 5958 0028 Tractordata doesn't list a 17KS02 Can a compression test be done on this motor, or does it also have some type of compression release? Edited May 9, 2021 by Gregor 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,887 #2 Posted May 9, 2021 Some light reading for you https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/5555-engine-b-s-twin-cylinder-l-head-smpdf/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,307 #4 Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) The 01-17KS02 you have is a 1980 model and should have the sundstrad 90 hydro. Special way off dealing with the plastic seat-pan. The engine: indeed both cylinders should have an equally compression. Ain't a Kohler but at least it's an opposed which is stronger then the V briggs. Edited May 9, 2021 by Maxwell-8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,441 #5 Posted May 10, 2021 You've got a good base to build on there, and for a good price. Those older flat twin Briggs are well thought of. This should be a good learning experience type project for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #6 Posted May 11, 2021 My 175 has a Sundstrand trans in it, which means it has a freewheeling valve. Of course this valve is stuck tight, and refuses to move. Just like my 141, I never did get it freed up. I have to pull this tractor to my storage for a while. Would I be better of to drain the trans, or would that do more harm than good? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,887 #7 Posted May 11, 2021 If the hydro is good shape you are in for a serious drag if you have to go more than a foot or 2. Can you put the rear end on a movers dolly?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #8 Posted May 11, 2021 (edited) 19 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Can you put the rear end on a movers dolly?? Not and drag it 200' through my yard. And yes, it does push very hard Edited May 11, 2021 by Gregor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,887 #9 Posted May 11, 2021 If the hydro is in good shape you will not be able to push it more than a very few feet before you have the tires sliding... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,441 #10 Posted May 11, 2021 5 minutes ago, pfrederi said: If the hydro is in good shape you will not be able to push it more than a very few feet before you have the tires sliding... Can that push / toe valve be freed up with something like heat or penetrating oil? Huge leverage? Anything like that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,733 #11 Posted May 11, 2021 @GREGOR, another thing I have done on first engine try starting , is to use a separate gallon of gas jug , eliminating the usual tank debris and clogged gas lines. also add a can of seafoam to that gallon of gas, just get it going if possible , and wake it up slowly . just checking out its basic function . usually run it till hot and do a oil drain , refill ,add a few ounces of rislone engine flush , to help clean out the crud and varnish . while running lubricate , cables linkages , help it run easier . just my own experience , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #12 Posted May 11, 2021 It's just possible it won't go to the storage shed. In a few days, when I have to turn this place into a paint booth again, it sure is gonna be in the way. 1 minute ago, peter lena said: another thing I have done on first engine try starting , Well duh. I am reinstalling the carb now. It's just possible I can drive it around. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #13 Posted May 11, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Can that push / toe valve be freed up with something like heat or penetrating oil? Huge leverage? Anything like that? I tried all that on my 141, never got anywhere. I don't have the fender off yet, so I'll give it another crack when I can get at it better. Three times while trying to start this thing yesterday and Sunday, it puked enormous amounts of gas into the carb. So much so, that I have changed the oil, 3 times. I was actually able to get a carb kit, and manifold gaskets in town yesterday, so I let it soak in Berrymans for several hours, then ran it through a couple cycles in my sonic cleaner. and installed the kit. A bit different than a Kohler, with the fuel pump right on the carb, but Taryls video, helped a lot. I just finished putting the carb back on. I don't want to jinx myself by saying it sounds pretty good. I know from past experience what can happen, so I'll just say it runs. Now I have to wait for the block, and tin work for the 125 to get back. While I have the time, I will pull the fuel tank off this 175, clean it inside, and out, and run a temporary fuel line. I guess I don't have to pull it around to storage anymore. P.S. If you ever have occasion to rebuild one of these carbs, I would NOT pull the needle seat. Pulling it isn't hard. Getting a new one back in, is a I have another carb on order, just in case. P.S. P.S. I also ordered a new starter. Today, this one turns over just fine. Go figure. 20210511_103733.mp4 Edited May 11, 2021 by Gregor 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #14 Posted May 11, 2021 Someone welded that Indy style flaring to the running boards. I don't mean just little tack welds either. I mean SOLID ! The nerve of some peoples kids ! Never ceases to amaze me. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #15 Posted May 11, 2021 8 hours ago, pfrederi said: If the hydro is in good shape you will not be able to push it more than a very few feet before you have the tires sliding... Yep! I can push it about 2 feet, and that's it. Won't go anymore. 8 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Can that push / toe valve be freed up with something like heat or penetrating oil? Huge leverage? Anything like that? I'm afraid to use heat. I don't know what's in there, but seems like a good place for a seal or O ring. I can get at it now. I have it soaking, and walloped it a couple of times, but still won't move. Cleaned up the tank, ran a temporary fuel line with 2 filters in it. Used a vise grip to hold the seat on, and went for a little joy ride. Tomorrow it will go into storage before I am tempted to tear it down. I have had 2 tractors tore down at once before. Not doing that again. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,441 #16 Posted May 11, 2021 Throw a little old fashioned Liquid Wrench or Kroil at it before parking it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites