523-H high roller

[Handy Don 12,232]

1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

 

My setup keeps all of the left pedal function, so the interlocks all still work. All I changed there was reinforcement with some more steel and added bronze bushings to compensate for my Clydesdale right foot.

 

I'm not up on all the versions of interlocks, but for the units that had Eatons and levers on the floor, the switch is activated by the lever itself. A spring "pulled" it into a neutral slot and closed the switch. For the "column" shifters, the switch is inside the hoodstand and closed by a tab on the lever arm.

In either case, disconnecting the lever to get unencumbered, full range forward/reverse via the pedal leaves that starter interlock switch needing a different setup. If it were me, I'd gang a second switch to the existing parking brake indicator switch and wire that as the starter enabling interlock so the park brake would have to be on to start the tractor.

I know that some 8-speed tractors had the start enabling switch linked to the clutch pedal.

 

[kpinnc 12,062]

23 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

 If you start your tractor, or dismount the running tractor w/o setting the brake , it will move in reverse.   But I accept responsibilty for my own actions  and would not have a tractor w/o it.

 

Exactly!

 

I absolutely believe in safety, but manufacturers nowadays take it too far. When anything becomes more dangerous out of sheer complexity, it has gone too far.

 

The seat switch is in my mind most important, particularly when coupled with the park brake. If my butt leaves the seat and the brake is not set, the tractor should shut off. 

 

My wife's grandfather almost tipped his 416 on a hill, and tried to jump off the tractor. The cuff of his overalls snagged the deck height adjuster and he fell. Then the still running 416 drug him by one leg until it was stopped by a tree. Even though he shouldn't have been trying to operate the tractor on the steep incline, if he hadn't disconnected the seat switch, he might not have had much more than a good joke to tell. He was lucky to have not been injured.

Edited September 16, 2021 by kpinnc

[kpinnc 12,062]

6 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

If it were me, I'd gang a second switch to the existing parking brake indicator switch and wire that as the starter enabling interlock so the park brake would have to be on to start the tractor.

I know that some 8-speed tractors had the start enabling switch linked to the clutch pedal

 

I agree. Thank you!

[Ed Kennell 38,178]

32 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I'd gang a second switch to the existing parking brake indicator switch and wire that as the starter enabling interlock so the park brake would have to be on to start the tractor.

Or just reposition the neutral start safety switch so it is functional.    I thought about this, but decided to wait a couple years till I was a little more absentminded.   I am now programmed to set the parking brake every time I dismount the tractor so a safety switch would probably make me careless.

Maybe next year when I reach level 8.

[Snoopy11 5,714]

23 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

set the parking brake every time I dismount the tractor

Wonder why L-157's don't have parking brakes...?

 

I just end up using my dozer blade (if I indeed have it on the tractor) as my parking brake... 

 

Don

[kpinnc 12,062]

Started on the electrical this weekend. This console came from a 518-H, so only 3 gauges. With that, and the sensors I have for this engine- I stuck with the basics. Hour meter, voltmeter, and oil pressure. Gotta figure out if I can put a "T" in the oil port, because I want to keep the pressure kill switch.

 

Anyway, now I'm building a wiring harness. I hate the electrical part!

[Lee1977 6,661]

It shouldn't be a problem to add a tee to keep the oil pressure switch. I added a tee at the filter on my C-120 I have a oil pressure light and gauge attached.

 

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,508]

4 hours ago, kpinnc said:

the electrical part

Interesting how many people say that. 

I'm well aware I ain't quite right but I find building a simple tractor harness to be quite relaxing. 

Mind you we run no safeties in our older machines and there's only about 10 wires...

 

Very nice work so far.  I'm sure the wiring will be as well. 

 

 

[kpinnc 12,062]

7 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

I added a tee at the filter on my C-120 I have a oil pressure light and gauge attached.

 

Thank you sir! That is what I had in mind, but wasn't sure if it would work or not.

[kpinnc 12,062]

5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Interesting how many people say that. 

I'm well aware I ain't quite right but I find building a simple tractor harness to be quite relaxing. 

Mind you we run no safeties in our older machines and there's only about 10 wires...

 

I'm just sorta lazy. The wiring isn't hard, but so many times my harness looks great, and then I find a flaw. Turns into a bird nest! 

[Handy Don 12,232]

13 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

and then I find a flaw

Ain't that the truth!

[Lee1977 6,661]

Those safety from Toro have gotten way to high, I ordered 4 in 2019 I think they were around 3.50.each to replace all on my 520. I checked a couple weeks back they were $9 to $20 from the parts suppliers.

I was ordering some pullies for the Eddleman mower and ordered a Honeywell mini snap switch just to see. The only difference is the mounting holes 7/8" center to center apposed to Toro switch at 15/16".

Honeywell mini snap switch SPDT 10 Amp. Zoro # G4630153 $2.68.

Edited September 20, 2021 by Lee1977

[Pullstart 62,889]

On 9/20/2021 at 9:49 AM, kpinnc said:

 

I'm just sorta lazy. The wiring isn't hard, but so many times my harness looks great, and then I find a flaw. Turns into a bird nest! 

I’m way behind and catching up on this project.  So nice!  Do you ever draw the needs of the wiring on a schematic (aka. cardboard box) before building the wiring?  I find that if I draw out the needs of every component, it helps to work it out in live wire time.

[kpinnc 12,062]

8 hours ago, pullstart said:

 Do you ever draw the needs of the wiring on a schematic (aka. cardboard box) before building the wiring?  I find that if I draw out the needs of every component, it helps to work it out in live wire time.

 

Did I mention I'm kinda lazy when it comes to electrical?  I just lay out each circuit and use lots of zip ties. With the exception of a couple fuses, and the oil pressure sender, it's done.

 

Thanks for the compliments though. Seems like the closer I get to finishing this, the more I remember that I thought was already done!

 

I finished the hydro pedal, but set the friction too high at the cam and bent the long linkage that passes through the dash. One more thing to come back to later... 

 

I notched the foot rest, even though it didn't need it. I figured the extra room for adjustments and wear would be a good thing. I'll run a brace under the footrest just to be safe. 

 

My decals should be here next week. Hopefully that will provide the neccesary motivation to finish this thing.

 

Edited September 25, 2021 by kpinnc

[Snoopy11 5,714]

36 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

 

compliments

Thing is looking sweet!!!

 

Don

[kpinnc 12,062]

2 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

Thing is looking sweet!!!

 

Don

 

Thank you sir!

[Bill D 1,921]

Very nice.  I can't wait to see it with that Exmark deck under it.

[kpinnc 12,062]

38 minutes ago, Bill D said:

Very nice.  I can't wait to see it with that Exmark deck under it.

 

While it may occasionally carry it, this one is primarily gonna carry the 60SD. The Exmark 48 goes with the whatchamacallit.

...When I finally get back to that one!

[kpinnc 12,062]

I had to make an adapter to fit this seat to the Wheel Horse springs. Nothing fancy, but it's one more thing completed. I like this seat, so it was getting on there one way or the other.

 

Fixed the foot hydro link thingy. 

 

Hopefully my steekers will be here this week (absolutely NO rush Terry!), so I'm hopeful I'll get this one off the lift in the next two weeks!

Edited September 29, 2021 by kpinnc

[Bill D 1,921]

31 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

I had to make an adapter to fit this seat to the Wheel Horse springs. Nothing fancy, but it's one more thing completed. I like this seat, so it was getting on there one way or the other.

 

Fixed the foot hydro link thingy. 

 

Hopefully my steekers will be here this week (absolutely NO rush Terry!), so I'm hopeful I'll get this one off the lift in the next two weeks!

I like the seat.  Why the clevis instead of a Heim joint?

[kpinnc 12,062]

14 hours ago, Bill D said:

I like the seat.  Why the clevis instead of a Heim joint?

 

Short answer: I had the clevis and didn't have another Heim. 

 

It's hard to see, but that is a 1/4 to 3/8 bushing inside the clevis. It moves freely in rotation, but has no play. I have the only other Heim I had left on the other end of the link, as well as the lower link to the pedal. I'll pick one up sometime, but it's good enough for now.

Edited September 29, 2021 by kpinnc

[kpinnc 12,062]

Today I extended the muffler 2.5 inches and added the 520 style guard. It's about an inch longer than a 520 muffler, but I think it looks good on there.  Turned out surprisingly well.

 

I also added a bracket to mount the Donaldson filter housing. Kind of an odd spot, but everything clears and the hose routing will be simple. I'll relocate the fuel pump later.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 1, 2021 by kpinnc

[kpinnc 12,062]

Dunno why I keep getting a pop up for pic size. I'll just add replies until they are all up.

 

 

Edited October 1, 2021 by kpinnc

[kpinnc 12,062]

Filter location is odd, but the pedal clears.

 

Edited October 1, 2021 by kpinnc

[kpinnc 12,062]

Hose routing will be simple.

 

Edited October 1, 2021 by kpinnc