big problem - no spark - wheel horse c-175

[wheeliepower 141]

hi,

 

I have a wheel horse c-175 with a big problem. It has no spark. I parked the tractor 3/4 year ago, everything went well back then.

 

Now i wanted to start the engine but there is no spark. I've already measured the ignition coil, it's ok.

 

I also don't know if the carburetor works. the spark plugs don't get wet when I try to start.

 

I already dismantled and cleaned the carburetor that could be an additional problem everything went great 3/4 year ago

 

I don't know, does anyone have an idea?

 

regards from germany

 

Manfred

 

 

 

 

I also saw this news about a similar problem

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 5, 2021 by wheeliepower

[953 nut 55,316]

The two most frequent causes of a loss of spark would be the PTO switch not being in the off position or corrosion on electrical connectors.

To verify that you ignition system is functional you can take a small jumper wire from the battery "+" terminal and connect it to the ignition coil "+" terminal. With this done there should be spark at the plugs.

[pfrederi 17,741]

Spray some carburetor  cleaner into the carb then crank.  If she fires you have a fuel problem.  if no fire the you have to clean the points and make sure you have 12volts at the coil.

[wheeliepower 141]

To verify that you ignition system is functional you can take a small jumper wire from the battery "+" terminal and connect it to the ignition coil "+" terminal. With this done there should be spark at the plugs  =>  that i did - no start engine

[wheeliepower 141]

I don't found a translate for this part => PTO switch not being in the off position

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

Pto = power take off.

Don't know your tractor model number so don't know which switch you have.

Click on the picture in the link for more

Garry

[pacer 3,173]

Wait -- if you/he jumped from + battery to + on coil and still has no spark then its an ignition problem - coil, points, cond, etc.

 

If this C175 has the KT17 twin, and I think it does, then its likely the coil - for some reason the KT17's like to eat coils.

[wheeliepower 141]

yes, it is a kohler kt-17 twin, model one

 

no spark if I connect the + battery withe the + from the coil with a cable directly

 

I have a check stick with a lamp, which I also have connected too between one spark plug and the spark cable, but there is no light too

 

surprising, when I used it 3/4 year ago, everything was still working. now I wanted to mow a meadow, nothing works anymore

 

Unfortunately in Germany wheel horse are very rare and I can't just try a part from a neighbor

 

I have to see if I still have an ignition coil to test

 

I have measured the resistances of the coil, they are OK (primary and secondary)

 

<<< sorry for my bad english, only my friend GOOGLE help me to translate  >>>

 

[pacer 3,173]

Manfred, you are doing OK with the translating...

The coil here in the states is readily available on the ebay with reasonable prices - $30-40. One of those sellers will probably offer overseas shipping, Check it out - Just put "Kohler KT17 Ignition coil kit " in search.

Edited May 5, 2021 by pacer

[wheeliepower 141]

us state to expensive (taxes + shipping)

 

I now have bought this  => https://www.ebay.de/itm/353445748276?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

I hope this works too

 

but why the coil, both windings are ok (even measured resistance)?

 

 

and the Pto = power take off,  I think,I don't have any more this switch 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

83 / 5000

 

 

 

Übersetzungsergebnisse

 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Have you cleaned your points??  Connect your test light to good ground and touch the other end to the small negative terminal on the coil.  When you crank the engine the light should flash on and off.  If it doesn't clean and reset the gap on your points....018"

Edited May 5, 2021 by pfrederi

[wheeliepower 141]

yes, I cleaned

 

If I clip on the test lamp (as you wrote ) and try to start the engine, the light stays on forever (see pic)

 

what do you mean with =>    "...........If it doesn't clean and reset the gap on your points"

 

 

Edited May 5, 2021 by wheeliepower

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

10 minutes ago, wheeliepower said:

If I clip on the test lamp (as you wrote ) and try to start the engine, the light stays on forever (see pic)

 

If you are actually connected to the NEGATIVE terminal of the coil, which is the same one that the points are connected to, when the points CLOSE the light MUST go out.

 

What this means is that your points are never closing if the light stays lit all the time.

 

Could be:

 

Points still dirty

Improper adjustment

Broken wire or bad connection from points to coil

 

You don't have to crank the starter for this test, just turn the key to " ON " and turn the flywheel by hand.

 

Edited May 5, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[wheeliepower 141]

so

 

I turn off the spark plugs, then I is easier to turn the flywheel from hand

 

I connected the lamp, I turn the key to "on"

 

the lamp shines

 

I turn the flywheel several turns but the lamp always shines

 

 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Take the cover off the points. Make sure they open and close as you turn the engine over.  Use a small file to clean them or some clean paper.  Gap should be .018 inches.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

2 minutes ago, wheeliepower said:

so

 

I turn off the spark plugs, then I is easier to turn the flywheel from hand

 

I connected the lamp, I turn the key to "on"

 

the lamp shines

 

I turn the flywheel several turns but the lamp always shines

 

 

 

Könnte sein:
Punkte noch schmutzig
Unsachgemäße Einstellung
Drahtbruch oder schlechte Verbindung von den Punkten zur Spule

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

8 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Gap should be .018 inches.

 

I believe should be 0.020 ?  Not much difference of course.

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,326]

@Tractorhead Can you help @wheeliepowerwith his problem , not sure how far away he is from your location.

[pfrederi 17,741]

22 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I believe should be 0.020 ?  Not much difference of course.

You are correct  however when i set the points with a timing light they usually seem to be a tad tighter than the .020 .. at least  on some engines...could be worn plungers.. 

Edited May 5, 2021 by pfrederi

[wheeliepower 141]

Engine runs

 

the arrow shows a point of contact where a piece of metal was pinched

 

no idea where does that part come from

 

no matter, wheelie is running

 

now adjust the carburetor tomorrow, I also suspected and dismantled completely

 

many thanks all the people here, who tried with me to solve the problem

 

regards from germany

 

manfred

 

 

Edited May 5, 2021 by wheeliepower

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Hallo Manfred, habe leider erst jetzt Nachricht bekommen zu Deinem Problem.

Aber schön dass er wieder läuft.👍

 

Zuerst mal ein herzliches   to  von mir.

Hast ja ein schickes Maschinchen.

 

Die Jungs meinten, daß Du deine Unterbrecherkontakte mal reinigen und einstellen solltest.

Btw. Bei längeren Standzeiten empfiehlt es sich, vorher den Vergaser leerlaufen zu lassen, damit er nicht zusetzt.

 

Beim Sprit solltest Du ab und zu mal einen Blei ersatz Zusatz verwenden,

denn unser Benzin hier in Deutschland ist immer mit mind.5% Ethanol versetzt.

Das mögen diese alten Motoren nicht unbedingt gern.

 

als weiteren Tipp

 

Tausche die Spritleitungen aus, denn die originalen lösen sich durch das ethanol im Benzin langsam auf.

Diese kleinen brösel schwemmt es Dir dann in den Vergaser und setzt den zu.

 

grüsse aus Bayern

 

 

Edit: (btw 0.020 meint 0,45-0,5 mm Unterbrecherabstand)

solltest Du Hilfestellung zum einstellen benötigen, melde Dich einfach

 

end edit:

Edited May 5, 2021 by Tractorhead

[wheeliepower 141]

hallo, ja ärgerlich das ganze

 

top gelaufen, dann vor einem 3/4 jahr abgestellt und jetzt wollte ich ihn aktivieren und dann das......

 

bleizusatz mach ich bei jeder tankfüllung rein

 

dachte erst mein problem ist der vergaser, deshalb hab ich den ganz zerlegt und gereinigt. jetzt muss ich mal schauen, wie ich das teil wieder anständig eingestellt bekomme

 

hatte die schwimmernadel auch draussen und die verstellschraube von den umdrehungen ungefähr wie es war wieder eingestellt

 

vielleicht muss ich mich nochmal bei dir melden, wegen einstellung. deutsch geht wesentlich besser, als das gehackte englisch

 

obwohl ich bei mail nachrichten auch die "nur" kleinschreibweise und die satzkurzform gern verwende, wie du siehst

 

grüße aus dem saarland

 

manfred

 

Edited May 5, 2021 by wheeliepower

[Tractorhead 9,064]

5 minutes ago, wheeliepower said:

hallo, ja ärgerlich das ganze

 

top gelaufen, dann vor einem 3/4 jahr abgestellt und jetzt wollte ich ihn aktivieren und dann das......

 

bleizusatz mach ich bei jeder tankfüllung rein

 

dachte erst mein problem ist der vergaser, deshalb hab ich den ganz zerlegt und gereinigt. jetzt muss ich mal schauen, wie ich das teil wieder anständig eingestellt bekomme

 

hatte die schwimmernadel auch draussen und die verstellschraube von den umdrehungen ungefähr wie es war wieder eingestellt

 

vielleicht muss ich mich nochmal bei dir melden, wegen einstellung. deutsch geht wesentlich besser, als das gehackte englisch

 

grüße aus dem saarland

 

manfred

 

Jederzeit gerne

 

btw. thanks all fellas to help him.

I hope it is ok here to handle that conversation in German, it is easier for him than in English.

 

Manfred asked how to setup the Carb to basic settings, because he disassembled the whole carb to clean

even main nozzle was completely out. 

Is there a howto for the Basic Carb settings available

[wheeliepower 141]

I have download the english manual for kohler engines 

 

now i just have to translate with hands and feet and google translate

Edited May 5, 2021 by wheeliepower

[pfrederi 17,741]