Maxwell-8 4,277 #26 Posted May 5, 2021 7 hours ago, squonk said: A life-saver, i have hurt my back pretty bad last time i picked up a Kohler, they are some heavy cast-iron boys! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #27 Posted May 6, 2021 When I tore down the 301, I of course removed the balance gears. The little needles from the bearings fell into the block, and I was fishin them out with a small magnet. Lo and behold I came up with, what looks like another cam shaft shim. Is it possible there were 2 shims on the cam shaft, or did this more than likely come from one of the balance gears? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,155 #28 Posted May 6, 2021 The balance gears have a similar shim. Might even bee the same part #. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #29 Posted May 7, 2021 I have always bought my rebuild kits at isavetractors. It seems they are out of pistons. They will not sell the kit, minus the piston. (that seems weird) At any rate, is there another dependable supplier for rebuild kits, anyone would recommend? I am not a big ebay person. Thanks Greg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,155 #30 Posted May 8, 2021 On 5/5/2021 at 8:01 AM, ebinmaine said: That's the one piece of the puzzle I don't have here and I wouldn't mind having an engine OFF of the rolling table. What did you have to do to the engine stand specifically? Pics of the engine stand mount. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,610 #31 Posted May 9, 2021 17 hours ago, squonk said: Pics of the engine stand mount Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #32 Posted June 9, 2021 So after 35 days I have the block back for my K301. A paragraph in the Kohler manual has me confused, yet again. I find no notch on the connecting rod, or piston, or a fly. I don't see one on the old piston and rod either? HELP? Thanks Greg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #33 Posted June 9, 2021 On 5/9/2021 at 6:26 AM, ebinmaine said: Thanks! Here is a picture of my engine stand mount 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #34 Posted June 9, 2021 On after market pistons they sometimes do not have the notch or FLY. The stamping for oversize amount goes to the flywheel. side 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #35 Posted June 13, 2021 The K-301 for he C-125 lives and breathes. I'm not going to tell you I simply hooked everything up, bumped the key, and it purred like a kitten, that would be a lie. I don't know how a guy can get the initial governor adjustment off THAT far, but I managed to. I also decided to install an electric fuel pump. I may change it to pulse later. The rebuilt carb seems to work perfectly, but I know better than to brag too soon. I have been bit before. Now that I have it running, the tractor wants to creep in reverse, even with the parking bake set. I think this might have been an on going problem with the PO as the brake pedal was broken off. Seems to me you would have to stomp pretty hard to break one of those. I'm gonna have to figure out how to adjust the Eaton trans. First one of these I have had. Right now I am pretty happy with it. Check back in a week. K301 lives.mp4 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Searcher60 209 #36 Posted June 14, 2021 On 5/5/2021 at 9:57 AM, pfrederi said: I would think so. Maybe yuo could hook up an electric motor to the PTO pulley and spin it fast enough. Some say you can get an accurate test if you can crank the engine over backwards. To me not worth the effort. A leakdown test is better as it gives you a clues as to the cause of the lack of compression.. I would think an accurate compression test could easily be done by just increasing the exhaust valve clearance to exceed the lift of the ACR, or, just bend the ACR tang down. I would just open the exhaust valve clearance say an extra .015. That should disable the ACR. Leak down test is better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,235 #37 Posted June 14, 2021 4 hours ago, Gregor said: I'm gonna have to figure out how to adjust the Eaton trans. First one of these I have had. Dang it, @Gregor, you got the 301 to purr. Adjusting the Eaton to behave (the manual's guidance is excellent) is a walk in the park by comparison! My only hint, since this thing has been apart and maybe messed with, is to be sure that the motion control components are unobstructed over their full range of travel and resolve any conflicts before starting the adjusting. Nice work! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,433 #38 Posted June 15, 2021 I have the Eaton 7 and loosen the cam bolt just a bit. With the engine warm, the lever in neutral and at mowing RPM, I adjust the nut to the midpoint until it stays still and stays quiet. Tighten the bolt gradually. This has worked well for the linkage on my 516H. Yours, I expect, is similar. Linkage appears identical to my 520 non-runner. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites