Rusty rear rims

[krystolo 504]

I took my old wheels in to have the new tires put on, and the shop just called and said they are so rusty, they won't hold air.  The new tires are 10.5 vs the 8.0 that were previously mounted.  Otherwise size is the same.

 

Does this make sense? Anyone got a pair of rear rims for a C160?

 

Thanks!

[rjg854 11,387]

Is it just the beads that are rusted so they won't hold air? Or are the rims themselves rusted through?

The beads can be cleaned up so they'll seal.

The rims may possibly be welded to fix them.

[krystolo 504]

1 minute ago, rjg854 said:

Is it just the beads that are rusted so they won't hold air? Or are the rims themselves rusted through?

The beads can be cleaned up so they'll seal.

The rims may possibly be welded to fix them.

I"m going to need to get more information.  He mentioned that he had put some sort of additive, and something about beads...  I'm sorry, some of the jargon just doesn't stick in my brain.  Need to brush up on  my wheel and tire knowledge.  LOL

[krystolo 504]

I don't have a pic of the inside.

 

[rjg854 11,387]

It will be interesting to see what the issues are once you get the rims back.

[Maxwell-8 4,277]

12 minutes ago, rjg854 said:

The beads can be cleaned up so they'll seal.

9/10 the metal at the beads are rusted and they leak air, i put the naked rim on my horse, lift her up and let the rim spin, meanwhile use some sandpaper, steel brush or the grinder to remove the rust.

 

@krystolo the bottom of the rim in your pic, the bead is probably leaking there.

Edited April 29, 2021 by Maxwell-8

[pfrederi 17,741]

Tube it!!!

[SylvanLakeWH 25,600]

5 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Tube it!!!

[ebinmaine 67,623]

Another vote for TUBES. 

 

Trina and I have painted a few sets of rims front and rear. 

I've gone to using tubes in ALL my new tire installs. 

 

 

24 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

put the naked rim on my horse, lift her up and let the rim spin, meanwhile use some sandpaper, steel brush or the grinder to remove the rust

 

I've done this as well. 

 

Works good. Keeps the wheel moving so you don't have to. 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,623]

44 minutes ago, krystolo said:

Anyone got a pair of rear rims for a C160

Odds are near zero you need new rims. 

[D_Mac 8,623]

Put tubes in and call it a day.

[pacer 3,173]

Yep, just tube em --- but, DO clean the rims of as much rust as possible and maybe shoot something on to retard/slow that rust - primer, phosphoric acid, etc. I've run across a few rusted through. (usually tires been filled with improper liquid)

[Achto 27,604]

If there are no through holes in the rim. I'll cast another vote for clean the inside of the rim up, shoot a little paint on them, and tube the tire.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

11 minutes ago, pacer said:

primer, phosphoric acid, etc

 

After sanding, POR 15 system...  cleaner/degreaser , metal prep , POR15

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-40909-Gloss-Black-Stop/dp/B077J66P27/

 

If there's a lot of pitting then use "BEAD SEALER" (which is what the shop was probably talking about) 

 

 

But, if you tube them, you don't need the bead sealer, but still want to clean and paint the inside to prevent the toob from 'venting'.

 

Edited April 29, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[tom2p 2,394]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Odds are near zero you need new rims. 

 

Edited April 30, 2021 by tom2p

[ohiofarmer 3,276]

I like the spin the rim idea with sandpaper, but my buddy Red Green came up with something similar and of course geared to a lazy person. It seems that someone put some Fix A Flat in a rear tire. That stuff was invented by Satan to torture humanity. If you try to sand it or grind it off, you look like a coal miner.

  I have a gravel pile that i use to fill in the wear spots in the driveway, and old Red just puts the rusty wheel on the Raider 10 and against the #57 limestone and uses a jack to raise the rear of the tractor off the ground a bit.Oh, there might be some manipulation of holding the opposite wheel to regulate the spin of the rusty one, but Red just finds a chunk of wood for that.

 Then Red went to the kid's sand box and chased the cats away. He put some sand in the wheelbarrow and brought it to the gravel pile to shine the wheels a bit smoother. Ol' Red's a pretty nice guy, but for some reason after he is here, i can never find my duct tape

Edited April 30, 2021 by ohiofarmer

[ebinmaine 67,623]

3 minutes ago, ohiofarmer said:

lazy person

 

I've told a good many people a good many times over the years...

 

There's a fine line between laziness and efficiency and I ride that line really really tight.

 

[Pullstart 62,912]

Something I don’t think I’ve seen in this thread yet @krystolo, is the use of JB Weld or other epoxy type filler.  Once you clean up the wheel lip, fill the holes and then get some sand paper and elbow grease and smooth them out   The shape of various size fingers matches most any radius and use the filler sparingly... it goes on (in an extra layer if needed) much easier than taking off.

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

11 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

After sanding, POR 15 system...  cleaner/degreaser , metal prep , POR15

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-40909-Gloss-Black-Stop/dp/B077J66P27/

 

If there's a lot of pitting then use "BEAD SEALER" (which is what the shop was probably talking about) 

 

 

But, if you tube them, you don't need the bead sealer, but still want to clean and paint the inside to prevent the toob from 'venting'.

 

I use POR-15 on the inside of all the rims that I bead blast and paint.Expensive,but worth it.At least in my opinion.And the tires mount very easily back on the nice shiny rim.

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

12 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Something I don’t think I’ve seen in this thread yet @krystolo, is the use of JB Weld or other epoxy type filler.  Once you clean up the wheel lip, fill the holes and then get some sand paper and elbow grease and smooth them out   The shape of various size fingers matches most any radius and use the filler sparingly... it goes on (in an extra layer if needed) much easier than taking off.

Yup.Have used the JB Weld on extremely pitted rims in the bead sealing area.I usually buy the JB kit every trip to the local hardware store or Tractor Supply.The Squaw here says I ought to buy stock in the JB Weld company.Great stuff.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

57 minutes ago, Pollack Pete said:

Expensive,but worth it.

 

That small kit is about $25 or less.  It should be enough to easily do two rear wheels.  Not really that much more than painting them.

 

And it is TOUGH stuff!  I've got a buddy that used it to repair a badly cracked plastic bumper cover with some chunks missing.  After roughing it up on the inside and prepping, he bedded fiberglas mesh with the POR 15.  Spanned right across the missing chunks with the mesh.  A couple more coats on the outside over the missing areas.  It's no 'trailer queen' to be sure, but it doesn't look half bad and has held up for several years now.  I'm thinking of trying that on a rust through spot on the Monte Carlo.  And the Monte is already black!  Might not even have to paint!  

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

23 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

That small kit is about $25 or less.  It should be enough to easily do two rear wheels.  Not really that much more than painting them.

 

And it is TOUGH stuff!  I've got a buddy that used it to repair a badly cracked plastic bumper cover with some chunks missing.  After roughing it up on the inside and prepping, he bedded fiberglas mesh with the POR 15.  Spanned right across the missing chunks with the mesh.  A couple more coats on the outside over the missing areas.  It's no 'trailer queen' to be sure, but it doesn't look half bad and has held up for several years now.  I'm thinking of trying that on a rust through spot on the Monte Carlo.  And the Monte is already black!  Might not even have to paint!  

I buy it by the quart.About 55 to 60 bucks.I do the undersides of all my mower decks with it too.Have a brand X MTD lawn tractor  that I bought new in 1997.The last 10 yrs or so,after discovering the Wheel Horse hobby,I only use it in the Fall to pull my Cyclone rake.I remove and pressure wash the deck every 2 yrs and paint the underside with POR15.This deck has zero rust or rot through. And,after 2 seasons of leaf pick-up,some of the POR15 paint is still on it.Great stuff.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

2 hours ago, pullstart said:

sand paper and elbow grease and smooth them out

 

I bet if you apply it by the afore mentioned method of spinning the wheel, you might not even need sandpaper!  Kinda like a pottery wheel!  JB Weld on gloved finger...

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

20 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I bet if you apply it by the afore mentioned method of spinning the wheel, you might not even need sandpaper!  Kinda like a pottery wheel!  JB Weld on gloved finger...

 

By the way, POR has a thicker version of the paint that comes in a tube and this might be a good candidate for patching up pitted bead areas on wheels:

 

It comes in black AND white too...

 

    https://por15.com/collections/all/products/patch

 

In fact, many people are not aware that you can get the regular POR 15 in OTHER than Gloss Black.  Limited range though.

 

 

 

Edited April 30, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[oliver2-44 9,760]

I've smoothed some horrible rusted rims with JB Weld.  Spin them on the tractor as mentioned above, and clean them with a wire brush on a grinder. Apply JB weld. When dry spin rim on tractor and use a file to smooth it, then paint.

 

But a tube sure works good and allows you to add water to the wheel for weight, which is handy since you use you blade and do a lot of pushing and pulling