Steering wheel

[Gregor 4,846]

I soaked this wheel for 3 days, and had a bearing puller on it for 3 days, it didn't budge. I have other wheels, but this is a 2 spoke wheel, and I wanted to save it if I could. When I was working on my C-141, I had the same problem, but there was no way to put a puller on that wheel. I subsequently ended up breaking it. At that time someone (I don't remember who) suggested cutting the shaft and then putting it back together again. That's what I did this time. I don't know what you call these do-hickeys, but I got one. I drilled a small divet at each of the 4 set screw points, to give it a little extra bite, since there is no key way in the shaft. Once everything is back on, I can slide the shaft in, and join it. The stop at the bottom, and the collar at the top of the shaft, I'm thinking will hold it together. If not, plan B.

 

[WHX?? 48,815]

That's called a lovejoy coupling. Usually use in power transmission applications where some "give" or flex shock loading is desired. Also sometimes forgiving for slight misalignment. Should be ok for what you are doing with it but might introduce a bit of wheel slop down the road. Couldn't take the wheel to a H press? 

[Gregor 4,846]

8 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

Couldn't take the wheel to a H press? 

Maybe somewhere, but if you drive to the middle of nowhere, then go another 20 miles, that's where I live.

[WHX?? 48,815]

4 minutes ago, Gregor said:

drive to the middle of nowhere, then go another 20 miles, that's where I live.

YYYep... I hear ya.... same boat here.  Probably why half my disposable income goes to tools! 

[roadapples 6,983]

Could  have just used a piece of 3/4" ID pipe...

[Gregor 4,846]

2 hours ago, roadapples said:

Could  have just used a piece of 3/4" ID pipe...

Everything I could find was pretty sloppy. In the end, I may have to do that though.

[WHX?? 48,815]

@Ed KennellI think used some nifty couplings once. 

[Ed Kennell 38,175]

15 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

@Ed KennellI think used some nifty couplings once. 

 

Yeah, I have cut several shafts and rejoined them with rigid shaft couplings.     I would not recommend a Lovejoy or any flexible coupling.    This shaft is only  supported by  a bearing at each end and requires a rigid shaft in between.       A flexible coupling would be used to connect two shafts that are  supported by two bearings each.    I am concerned this arrangement will cause excess wear in the lower bearing block and possibly binding due to misalignment.   3/4"  rigid shaft couplings can be bought for $10-$15  dollars.     I typically weld to the lower half and bolt thru the upper half for easy disassembly.

 

 

[Gregor 4,846]

One rigid shaft coupling ordered from McMaster Carr.

[Lee1977 6,659]

I had my friend to make my coupling I also added three inches height to the steering wheel on my 312-8.  I also added height to the 520-H  when we fixed the wollared steering wheel on it.

 

[Damien Walker 246]

All of this is painfully familiar....it is bad enough trying to persuade the roll pin out, let alone removing the wheel from the shaft.

 

In my experience, the only sure way to do it is to use a hydraulic press:

 On the C-Series 3 spoke wheels, the centre cap comes off fairly easily (pick at it with a sharp instrument) and then you can drill through the plastic in the centre of the wheel, enabling you to get a drift on to the top end of the shaft. If you support it properly, the rear of plastic hub is easily strong enough to withstand the press pressure (20tons, not that I used that much!). Supporting the  wheel, shaft AND dashboard in the press is not so easy however. My most recent job was fitting power steering and so I needed to cut the shaft anyway....so I did, making the press operation trivial. I intended to epoxy the centre cap back on but it clicked back into position and doesn't appear to want to come back out too easily, so I think I will leave it 'loose'....I think they are staked in position originally. No doubt I will notice it missing just after I have gone over it with the mower....

 

If cutting the shaft, as recommended above, I would suggest rejoining the two halves with a straight 3/4" bore tube.....and I imagine such a thing would available from the same store that sold the flexible coupling discussed earlier! Of course, if you have access to a lathe, it would be a trivial job. One roll pin on either end and it should be as good as new, though I would be tempted to use plain shank bolts which should be rather more easily removed in the future.

 

I'm about to do some remedial work on my C175 and will report back if I have anything to add.

[Ed Kennell 38,175]

4 minutes ago, Damien Walker said:

plain shank bolts which should be rather more easily removed in the future.

 

                                          Exactly