You Never Forget The First One-Carb Info Needed

[Bentoolong 94]

C-101 that is. I got this recently from @ACman and I'm trying to get it back running and driving. My first WH. So far I like what I've seen.

 

I'm going through a a lot of electrical issues presently. New Solenoid and I'm thinking the ignition switch is shot as well.

 

I have schematics and the service manual.

 

It turns over and has compression. I haven't heard it run or even pop yet. Working on that.

A PO used to long of screws on the air filter pan and it was loose on the carb so that was resolved by filling the gap with caulk. I've cleaned most of that up. Do the 3 screws have lock washers on them typically?

 

Don't let the fancy seat fool you, it doesn't all look that good. Not a lot of paint left on the exterior.

 

I'm sort of treating this tractor as a teaching tool so I'm thinking about taking the PTO apart just to see what's in there.

 

Do you put a little grease on the bearings?

 

I have around 1/16" of space between the pulleys and the clutch when disengaged. I see that I am missing a spring.

I do notice that when I engage the PTO it actually pulls the engine back a little. That doesn't seem right even though this has the shaker frame motor mount.

Should I loosen the clutch a little?

 

What is the process for adjusting the PTO clutch. I've looked through the manuals but ultimately it may come down to just trying it even if I don't have and load on it.

 

Did I read that the motor pulley needs to be 1/16". from the motor. Mine is more like 1/2".

 

Thanks for having me over.

 

Model# 91-10K801-0469

Edited April 28, 2021 by Bentoolong

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,045]

Here is how the ignition switch should function. Click on the picture in the link

Pto spring. Click on the picture in the link

Garry

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

Better think about a carb rebuild.I wouldn't even try to run it with a carb that looks like THAT.

[Lee1977 6,659]

There may be nothing wrong with the drive pulley and clutch disk. Take a good straight edge and check the alinement with the transmission pulley. It may be it has to be that way. 

I know that some don't have the off set and the set screw is in the pulley groove.  If the pulleys line up it will be fine as it is.

[Pullstart 62,882]

Congrats on the acquisition Mark! Looks like a fun project!  Nice seat! 

[Bentoolong 94]

45 minutes ago, Pollack Pete said:

Better think about a carb rebuild.I wouldn't even try to run it with a carb that looks like THAT.

PP,

I'd like to get a pop out of it before I commit to a carb rebuild. I've never heard this run and I have no idea why it was abandoned so I'm taking small steps as far as work and $$$ goes.

[Bentoolong 94]

39 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

There may be nothing wrong with the drive pulley and clutch disk. Take a good straight edge and check the alinement with the transmission pulley. It may be it has to be that way. 

I know that some don't have the off set and the set screw is in the pulley groove.  If the pulleys line up it will be fine as it is.

I don't expect anything wrong. I'd just like to open it up and take a look.

Lube?

[lynnmor 7,306]

5 hours ago, Bentoolong said:

 

 

Do we need to revive the Ugly Seat Contest?

[Herder 2,354]

Your right!  I haven't forgotten my first WH, still have it 20 years latter.  Still love it.  C-160.

 

[oldlineman 1,481]

Yep that was my first 1979 c-101 still going strong plowing snow now not mowing any more. You can see it in my avatar and my daughter also acquired in 1979 both keepers.  Bob

Edited April 24, 2021 by oldlineman

[Bentoolong 94]

1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

 

Do we need to revive the Ugly Seat Contest?

If there is such a thing I’d like to enter.

[Achto 27,576]

7 hours ago, Bentoolong said:

Do the 3 screws have lock washers on them typically?

 

I use lock washers plus blue Loctite. You do not want those screws coming loose. If one falls out it will go through the card and into the cylinder. Then - the out come is not good.

 

4 hours ago, Bentoolong said:

I'd like to get a pop out of it before I commit to a carb rebuild.

 

After you get spark. A little gas in a spray bottle works well for squirting into the carb to see if it will pop. When your ready to rebuild the carb, I suggest using a Kohler rebuild kit. I have not had good luck with the aftermarket kits. Here is the part number for the Kohler kit, 2575701S

 

 

[Gregor 4,846]

7 hours ago, Bentoolong said:

Do the 3 screws have lock washers on them typically?

On my tractors they have lock washers AND loctite. I have seen screws sucked into the carburetor before. Not again.

[Gregor 4,846]

47 minutes ago, Achto said:

Here is the part number for the Kohler kit, 2575701S

 

Do you have a part number and supplier for a 12 HP?

[Achto 27,576]

3 minutes ago, Gregor said:

Do you have a part number and supplier for a 12 HP?

 

Carb kits for a Kohler with a Carter carb are all the same 4hp - 16hp.

 

Here is one source for them.

http://www.psep.biz/store/kohler_carburetor_parts.htm

 

A Google search for the Kohler part number I posted will bring up many sources.

[Gregor 4,846]

49 minutes ago, Achto said:

Carb kits for a Kohler with a Carter carb are all the same 4hp - 16hp.

Yeah, sorry. I thought you were talking about an engine rebuild kit. I should have read closer.

[Achto 27,576]

11 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I thought you were talking about an engine rebuild kit

 

I got ya. Same site different category.   Wide range of prices depending on OEM or aftermarket

 

http://www.psep.biz/store/kohler_rebuild_kits.htm

 

Choose your part number from the above site but place you order on the site below.

 

https://www.psep1.biz/

 

 

 

 

[Bentoolong 94]

Thought I'd better circle back and give an update.

 

I dealt with a lot of wiring issues. Mainly just bad connections and one wire that was rubbed through.

I have the new solenoid installed and I'm expecting a new key switch any day.

 

After wiring around the key switch, I have spark!!!. Check that box.

 

On to the carb. I pulled the bowl off a few days ago and found a lot of varnish on the float and the needle stuck. I got a lot of the varnish off and put it back together.

After getting spark I remove the bowl and the O ring fell into pieces. OK, now I'm looking at a rebuild kit. 

 

The carb/motor block gasket was sacrificed when I removed the carb. I see some rather thin gaskets online but I see some thick ones as well. I assume the thicker ones are better and would help prevent vapor lock.

 

Should I look for a thicker gasket?

 

Does anyone have luck with the after market (cheap) rebuild kits?

 

Does anyone soak the entire carb in something prior to disassembly? Something like Simpler Green. Getting the crud off the outside.

 

I don't have a ultrasonic cleaner available.

 

Ben Too Long

 

 

 

 

[pfrederi 17,739]

I buy cheap cans of aerosol carb cleaner at Wally World.  That will clean up the outside and inside when yo have it opened up...(I would suggest plastic gloves not sure about what is in that stuff,) 

[Gregor 4,846]

Honestly. That carb needs a couple days soak in Berrymans, and put through a sonic cleaner. You will never get it clean with a can of carb spray, and Q-tips.

 

I would actually put on a China carb, rather than use that, as it is. Just my opinion.

 

Gasket Partstree  271030-S   $4.83

Edited April 28, 2021 by Gregor

[pfrederi 17,739]

Obviously berrymans would be better ( i use it but I have a whole bunch of things with old carbs) but if you only have one carb to clean that is a waste. Time and patience and some compressed air you can get pretty well cleaned up the run it with some carb cleaner added to the gas for awhile

[Bentoolong 94]

So people have had good experiences with the cheaper aftermarket carbs? Bolts right up?

I'm sure these old carbs have some life left in them unless the shafts get real worn.

Maybe I'll shop for an after market and save the original.

 

Mark

 

 

[pfrederi 17,739]

Just now, Bentoolong said:

So people have had good experiences with the cheaper aftermarket carbs? Bolts right up?

I'm sure these old carbs have some life left in them unless the shafts get real worn.

Maybe I'll shop for an after market and save the original.

 

Mark

 

 

Some get Lucky, some do not with Chinese carbs.  Search here there are plenty of threads about them...

[Gregor 4,846]

If you take your carb to a mower shop, they may clean it for you, at less cost than a new carb.

[Bentoolong 94]

I have an aftermarket ordered but I realize now that there is no ball connector for the throttle shaft. I asked online and they said there is a wire connector(?). 

 

How do people connect the throttle?

 

I may just get an overhaul kit ordered as well in case.

 

Mark