WheelHorse520H 708 #201 Posted August 19, 2021 3 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: Best of my recollection, my 1194 520H was like this in the area of the PTO engagement linkage... 1. Engine block. 2. muffler mounting bracket 3. PTO linkage bracket/ no spacer such as I see in your pic. I believe it was between #1 and #2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #202 Posted August 19, 2021 Just now, WheelHorse520H said: I believe it was between #1 and #2 I guess that is totally possible... I would see how the muffler/ exhaust lines up after hand snugging the bolts in the pipe flanges to the heads, then see if it looks like you have a space to fill between the engine block and muffler bracket. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #203 Posted August 19, 2021 2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: I guess that is totally possible... I would see how the muffler/ exhaust lines up after hand snugging the bolts in the pipe flanges to the heads, then see if it looks like you have a space to fill between the engine block and muffler bracket. I’ll check there, I’ll loosen the PTO bolts and see if there is room. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #204 Posted August 20, 2021 I found where the piece goes, it’s a little cover over a hole in the engine block. Photos below. I have a ripped gasket for it so I used some gas safe sealant and it seems good. Got it all back together and it has spark but it won’t start. I don’t know what is going on, used an eye dropper and dropped gas into the carb but it still won’t start. PLEASE HELP. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,308 #205 Posted August 20, 2021 29 minutes ago, WheelHorse520H said: I found where the piece goes, it’s a little cover over a hole in the engine block. Photos below. I have a ripped gasket for it so I used some gas safe sealant and it seems good. Got it all back together and it has spark but it won’t start. I don’t know what is going on, used an eye dropper and dropped gas into the carb but it still won’t start. PLEASE HELP. Is this an older engine that once had points and it was converted to electronic? The points would have been mounted there. Pull a spark plug and check for sparking while cranking. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #206 Posted August 20, 2021 11 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Is this an older engine that once had points and it was converted to electronic? The points would have been mounted there. I don’t think so, but I could be wrong. 13 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Pull a spark plug and check for sparking while cranking. I will try that. But just curious does using a spark tester make any difference? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,308 #207 Posted August 20, 2021 1 hour ago, WheelHorse520H said: I will try that. But just curious does using a spark tester make any difference? A spark tester might give a better idea of the intensity of the spark, but a spark plug will show if a spark is present. Since it takes higher voltage to spark under compression, the gap on the test plug can be opened a bit to better test for ample voltage. I keep an old but good plug around for test purposes, it can be any plug that fits the ignition wire. Be sure to ground the base of the plug against a metal engine part. I have a meter that tests spark that hasn't been used in 50 years, a spark plug is good enough. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #208 Posted August 20, 2021 The tester said it has spark but resting the plug on metal did not have spark, does it need to be held there or does having it rest there good? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,308 #209 Posted August 20, 2021 42 minutes ago, WheelHorse520H said: The tester said it has spark but resting the plug on metal did not have spark, does it need to be held there or does having it rest there good? As long as it is touching bare metal it will work. A very bad plug can leak the spark down the center electrode where you may not see it, a new or known good plug is best. I avoid spark testers preferring actual conditions. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #210 Posted August 20, 2021 1 minute ago, lynnmor said: As long as it is touching bare metal it will work. A very bad plug can leak the spark down the center electrode where you may not see it, a new or known good plug is best. I avoid spark testers preferring actual conditions. I am actually about to leave to get new plugs anyway just because of how old these are. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,308 #211 Posted August 20, 2021 NGK plugs are the best, in recent years Champion has some poor threading. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #212 Posted August 20, 2021 Does it matter if they are unused but I bought them years ago? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,308 #213 Posted August 20, 2021 1 hour ago, WheelHorse520H said: Does it matter if they are unused but I bought them years ago? Spark plugs will last almost forever if they aren’t exposed to something that caused them to corrode. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #214 Posted August 20, 2021 I got new plugs and have verified, there is spark. It seems there is a fuel delivery issue. The fuel filter is getting some fuel but not a lot. Not enough to start I believe. I think the fuel pump is to blame. However I am not sure which way the fuel shut off goes to have fuel flowing. I believe it is when the screw is out all the way, correct? This is strange, it started fine before I tore it down. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,226 #215 Posted August 20, 2021 (edited) Is the pulse hose connected to the pump and block? Edited August 20, 2021 by Ed Kennell Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #216 Posted August 20, 2021 Just now, Ed Kennell said: If this is a pulse pump, is the hose connected? It was when I put it together and it appears to pump just slowly. I think since I took the carb apart it may need to be filled since it completely drained. Thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #217 Posted August 20, 2021 It may take 20 to 30 seconds of cranking with that pulse pump to fill the bowl... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #218 Posted August 20, 2021 Ok, I am going to fill the line that goes from the filter (after the filter just to be clear) to the carb so I can start it and let it fill the bowl on its own. Thanks for the input. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,433 #219 Posted August 21, 2021 Isn't that the useless plate that sits right behind the PTO on the engine. Older Onans with points mounted there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #220 Posted August 21, 2021 1 minute ago, Tuneup said: Isn't that the useless plate that sits right behind the PTO on the engine. Older Onans with points mounted there. Yes, in the first photo of post 204 you can see the drive belt in the bottom of the photo. The thing about the points is what @lynnmor said. I never knew the p220 had points, I thought it was always electronic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,433 #221 Posted August 21, 2021 1 hour ago, WheelHorse520H said: Yes, in the first photo of post 204 you can see the drive belt in the bottom of the photo. The thing about the points is what @lynnmor said. I never knew the p220 had points, I thought it was always electronic. The 220 was always electronic but the block came from the older series which had a points module - at least that has always been my belief... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #222 Posted August 21, 2021 4 minutes ago, Tuneup said: The 220 was always electronic but the block came from the older series which had a points module - at least that has always been my belief... Interesting. Thanks for the info. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #223 Posted August 21, 2021 I took off the top of the carb and filled it with fresh gas I got today and it still won’t start. @Horse Newbie I’ve been cranking it like crazy to pump fuel up but it still won’t start. I am not sure @lynnmor if I have spark. With the plug out and against bare metal there is a spark but I know that you said it is harder to get a spark when it’s under compression. I am at a loss, I have no clue what is happening. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #224 Posted August 21, 2021 @WheelHorse520H Has anybody mentioned safety switches? I know my 1994 520H wouldn't crank one day and I had to put my motion lever (right side of steering wheel) in exact neutral. But now I remember it would not even turn over, not turn over but not fire. Don't fret and be patient, you just ain't figured it out yet...you'll get it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse520H 708 #225 Posted August 21, 2021 2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: @WheelHorse520H Has anybody mentioned safety switches? I know my 1994 520H wouldn't crank one day and I had to put my motion lever (right side of steering wheel) in exact neutral. But now I remember it would not even turn over, not turn over but not fire. Don't fret and be patient, you just ain't figured it out yet...you'll get it. I’ll bypass them and try it but I am pretty sure I have spark, the motion lever on the 88 is in the middle. It appears to be flooding what on the carb should I adjust? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites