Charging stator

[Gregor 4,847]

Just read the J B Weld package. Good to 550 degrees. That should do it

 

[Tractorhead 9,065]

I would apply a high temp paint.

like brake caliper paint, also available in clear.

 

resists up to 350*C typically.

Edited April 21, 2021 by Tractorhead

[bc.gold 3,403]

The Stamford generator head uses class "H" insulated wire.

 

[Tractorhead 9,065]

I use normally this

 

 

That Wire is offered for High power Transformers and Alternators , my wirediameter depends on my needs.

The last coil i rewound with a Wire i removed from an old Transformer, what works also.

question is how long it will work - another question is how much current it must deliver.

 

is it permanently on limit or not.

[Gregor 4,847]

The more you guys talk, the less I understand. Maybe I am in over my head trying to re-wind these coils. I am just going to go on using what I have. If they blow up in 6 months, so be it. They weren't working when I got them, so I'm not out much, but a little wire and time. And just think of the frustration I would have missed out on. Priceless!

[Tractorhead 9,065]

A try will give you the best feedback over the time.

 

Some things here discussed are about the theory mostly needed for high current or hard loaded Alternators,

others ( use what you have) is simple practice.

I tried in the past recoil few Alternators, some works better, few don‘t.

When it last for you needs - all is fine.

At a youngster i have to recoil my Zündapp KS50WC TT Alternator, also with a reused Wire from an old Transformer.

This Alternator runs pretty nice ( i converted a 6V to 12V System) even long after i have sold this Motocycle 6Years later.

 

if your coils work longer you be fine, if not, look what was the cause and redo.

Any experiment here can just improve your knowledge and feeling if it was good or not.

Damages will be in worst case end up with a damaged while overloaded coil, what results in a internal short and no charge.

A defect coil will normally not hurt your Rectifier/ regulator.

So it is allway‘s worth a try.

 

that simple 👍

 

[bc.gold 3,403]

23 minutes ago, Gregor said:

The more you guys talk, the less I understand. Maybe I am in over my head trying to re-wind these coils. I am just going to go on using what I have. If they blow up in 6 months, so be it. They weren't working when I got them, so I'm not out much, but a little wire and time. And just think of the frustration I would have missed out on. Priceless!

 

The only thing wrong with what your doing is trying to reinvent the wheel, JB weld is a great epoxy with a high temperature rating but I question its ability to dissipate heat.

 

The motor varnish you need is available from McMaster Carr.

[bc.gold 3,403]

If your tractor in addition to battery an electric pto and lights the demand on the alternator will more than double.

Edited April 21, 2021 by bc.gold

[Gregor 4,847]

2 minutes ago, bc.gold said:

The motor varnish you need is available from McMaster Carr.

I will check it out. Thanks

2 minutes ago, bc.gold said:

If your tractor in addition to battery an electric pto and lights the demand on the alternator will more than double.

No lights, no PTO. This is a temporary motor until I get my 8 HP Genny block,  back from the shop. Just a spare motor.

 

I decided to install the original stator, and give it a try. The motor turned over twice, and stopped. I couldn't spin  it with a vice grip. (been here before. On y Tecky) The flywheel was rubbing on the stator. Of course there is no adjustment. The stator is where it is, and that's that. Well, a flap disc on a 4 1/2" grinder will adjust it. Remember, it's a flap disc, not a cutting torch. Good or bad, the motor spins now.

I just haven't had the nerve to try it yet. I am having a or 6.

[Tractorhead 9,065]

Have a beer for me too 👍🍺

[Gregor 4,847]

2800 RPM 12.9 ACV  5.8 DCV  The higher the RPM, the lower the voltage. That confuses me. But it is what it is.

[Gregor 4,847]

@TractorheadI remember on my Tecky, I had to take one of the AC stator wires to ground. Is that true in this case also?

 

1700 RPM  13.4    9.7

Edited April 21, 2021 by Gregor

[bc.gold 3,403]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

2800 RPM 12.9 ACV  5.8 DCV  The higher the RPM, the lower the voltage. That confuses me. But it is what it is.

 Was there a larger magnet on the flywheel, this one would have triggered the ignition coil, i have a 5 hp Briggs with a hybrid system that fires the ignition coil in addition to putting out 120 volts ac. Just enough power for one light bulb.

 

Your original stater has much less coils than the one you rewound.

 

If you have access to the shop manual this will give you the specs for that particular alternator.

[Gregor 4,847]

I bought this motor as is. All I know is that it is an 8 HP Kohler. There was no tag on it. I have no spec or serial #. I don't know what it came off of, but it was green. All magnets were the same size. 

[Gregor 4,847]

I may have figured out my problem. Maybe. I am using my grand kids toy truck battery, to power the battery ignition. I am using my bench battery, to crank the motor. But there is NO battery hooked up to the charging system at all. Maybe that would make a difference.

[Tractorhead 9,065]

Good morning Gentleman,

to verify the stator itself while Engine is running,

keep it just loaded with an ohms load like a Car bulb to see what it sent out in Voltage and Amps.

that is simply the easiest and best measuring.

 

Who measures, measures crap - we learned several moons ago. 😁

 

Measuring on a regulator without battery, depending on type of regulator.

it can be happen that without a battery it oscillated wild arround, what can bring the measured result to crap.

At least you will know so by measure after regulator, if it will work (stop overcharge) or not.

it seems it will do, so it’s time to connect a Battery and you should be fine. 👍

 

 

Congrat‘s.

 

To answer your question if one of the leads must points to ground, that is depending to you rectifier/ regulator.

Some need it some doesn‘t.

The cheapo regulators they are cheaply available and mostly used for pit bikes Honda Monkey types

are Ground depending and need a segmented coil for the regulator.

That means 1 or 2 Posts must be an pickup attached before final end of Coil.

but this can be work with 2 antiparallel diodes also.

 

 

Btw in the link on the Pict you can find some good info‘s,

He is also a good guy in rework Motocycle Alternators.

 

 

 

Edited April 22, 2021 by Tractorhead

[Gregor 4,847]

My grand kids toy truck battery is 12 V, 9.5 Ah. Is it safe to use this battery to crank the motor, or will I ruin the battery?

[Tractorhead 9,065]

Depending on CCA Value that is called sometimes Shortcut Current or Cold Cranking Amps.

Should be above 80A for a try.

 

if you have a spare Car battery something between 50-80A, it will work also.

Your limit is than the Regulator, if your stator coil delivers more Amps than the regulator will handle,

the regulator can heat up quick so mount it on any Metal Surface with good heat dissapation

and check it‘s temp while charging.

Edited April 22, 2021 by Tractorhead

[Gregor 4,847]

Here's what I did.

I went and got me a motorcycle battery.  12V, 210 CCA  It was 12.4 VDC when I got it. I hooked up some lights, and ran it down to 11.6VDC

Put it in the tractor, hooked everything up, including voltage regulator.

Battery voltage with out engine running, 11.7 VDC

Engine @ 3200 RPM, 13.3 VAC from stator.

Voltage across battery, 12.4 VDC

Turn off engine, battery voltage, 11.7VDC

I think it's working.

 

For future reference, I will know NOT to check a charging system, without a battery hooked to it.  And the cigarette lighter works too !

 

Side note.  This tractor has a generator warning light on it. It stays lit, while the tractor is running. I assume that may have something to do with the fact, that this is suppose to have a generator (Genny motor) in it, not an AC stator. Would that be correct?

 

Edited April 22, 2021 by Gregor