Briggs question

[Ed Kennell 38,114]

I worked on the National sickle mower a bit today.  Pulled the tin on the 3HP briggs (only 3 bolts) and cleaned the flywheel and the coil.  Put it back together and still no spark.

I would like to pull the flywheel to check the key and the points.    Am I correct in thinking the aluminum housing that contains the ratchet for the pullstart is also the nut that holds the flywheel on?     Does this thing screw off and is it a right hand thread?       And yes, I am Briggs ignorant.

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040]

Does this thing screw off and is it a right hand thread?  Yes.

There is a special socket to grab the ears on the housing which is nice to have so it gets torqued to spec when it goes back on.

There is a hole in the end of the square drive that should get a few drops of oil. There is a wick inside to feed oil to the crankshaft because it is always turning when running.

Do you know the model number? We should have the service manual.

 

Garry

[ranger 1,748]

The aluminium  ‘nut’ which the recoil starter engages is the thing that secures the flywheel. Just about every Briggs engine with points I’ve had ignition problems with has been the plastic pin that opens the points, it had seized in the open position. I made a tool to loosen and re-tighten the special nut to the correct torque. If it’s not tightened enough you can end up with a sheared aluminium key.

Edited April 18, 2021 by ranger

[JoeM 7,873]

I have used big channel locks to remove that nut.

[Ed Kennell 38,114]

34 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Do you know the model number?

I'll get it tomorrow Garry.    

 

35 minutes ago, ranger said:

I made a tool to loosen and re-tighten the special nut to the correct torque

Great, I'll make one.   Any idea what the Tq is on a 3HP?

[WHX?? 48,813]

53 minutes ago, JoeM said:

I have used big channel locks to remove that nut.

I use a small BFH ....  Torque setting for me is one big tap followed by three small taps... 

Get or make that  tool Ed yer gonna need it to dollar bill those points after it sets for abit. These machines have a tendency to set & the points get a little corrosion on them and off comes the fly wheel again. 

 As mentioned in your other thread ditch the points. 

Briggs and Stratton Ignintion Coils and Replacement Parts (psep.biz)

 

Oh yes rightsy tightly lefty loosey on it. 

Edited April 18, 2021 by WHX24

[Ed Kennell 38,114]

18 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

 As mentioned in your other thread ditch the points.

I'll probably end up there, but I gotta see what I have under the flywheel.       Also still having visions of the sickle mounted on the tiller plow frame, but it's too nice to cut up.

[JoeM 7,873]

11 hours ago, WHX24 said:

I use a small BFH

Your need to get a set of these! Kind of like the swiss army knuckle buster of adjustable wrenches. 

 

[ranger 1,748]

Beware hitting the ‘threaded ears’ with a hammer, you can easily distort them, and then find the screws that hold the mesh screen won’t then fit. The tools aren’t that expensive to buy, or difficult to make. If you don’t have access to a lathe / mill, find a piece of tube that fits, cut the slots with an angle grinder, or hacksaw / file, drill a cross hole for a tommy bar, and go from there. If no suitable tube available, find something roughly the same size as the centre and weld ‘Fingers’ on to engage the ears. Or find an old socket, cut the slots, you’ll then be able to use a torque wrench to re-tighten. You may not use it often, but it’s there if you need it!

 

Doug.

 

[Ed Kennell 38,114]

31 minutes ago, ranger said:

find a piece of tube that fits, cut the slots with an angle grinder

No lathe, but I do weld.      My plan exactly to cut the slots on the correct size pipe and weld on a nut.      Thanks Doug.

[JoeM 7,873]

Ed I got a 3hp briggs engine on a snow thrower, might work if yours is not good. Could be had for some trading. It has the pointless ignition in it. The rotor that throws the snow is a little out of kilter and vibrates a bit. I found that carb to be fussy too!

 

[305 380]

that special tool is Briggs 19244 or Primeline 7-05247.   Briggs calls it a clutch wrench and Primeline a ratchet remover

 

about $12

[JustinW.73 224]

Before I had the tool I used a 7/16” open end wrench and a small hammer. Never broke, chipped, cracked, or deformed and ears and I’ve taken several off. They aren’t that tight usually so you don’t need to go full Hercules.