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Similar Content
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By Maxwell-8
So yesterday I picked-up a C175. She was rusting away as she was stored outside. She had a new to her Kohler K341. @squonk The previous owner indeed better had"LET AN ELECTRICIAN CHECK his SHORTS!" as bad wiring shorted the battery out, and exploded/melted. She has a Sundstrand hydro pump with a Filter, is that normal? By the pump I believe it's a 1980. But you never now for sure as it's made in Oevel. Due to the bad wiring, the engine was in no running condition. But don't think the K341 has many hours on it. The hydro I don't know if it works. She was hard to push. So i lift up one wheel, so we could roll here one one wheel and the diff prevented the trans from locking up.
So first things to do:
1) get the engine running
2) replace the steering wheel, but don't think removing it will be very hard as it's already split in two.
3) replace the axleseals, the oil leak caused a lot of sandbuild up as she was mainly used on for leveling out a horse track.
4) clean all the acid and remove all the old wiring to do a full rewiring
5) replace the plastic seat pan with a metal.
6)...
I'm looking forward on my first C.
It's also my first hydro, I don't know a lot about them and prefer actual gears. Simpler and need less maintenance (parts-shortage).
But since I couldn't find another project WH and me hearing a lot of good things about hydro's on the forum.. I finally took the shot.
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By RJ Hamner
Rebuilding a C160. everything worked prior to rebuild
Engine was fairly high time so machined .020 over and rebuilt
Finished rewiring and made sure all the circuits were in order
Starter would spin the engine. Made new coil wire and installed new spark plug
Starter won't turn the engine. Tried several times with and without spark plug Same results
Starter was what I took off the tractor prior to rebuild but can't say it is orininal
So.......Am I missing something or is a new starter going to be the answer?????
Thoughts? Ideas?
All help/input appreciated
BTW: Don't know if it means anything but the gear does not retract when key is moved back to ON
Bob
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By RJ Hamner
I was breaking down the engine getting it ready to go to the machine shop. Everything was pretty normal until it tried to remove the PTO race and the engine pulley. As I was setting up the "puller" I noticed the end of the crankshaft looked different but never gave it much thought. After a half a can of PB Blaster,destroying the engine pulley and turning the air in the shop blue I was able to get the crankshaft free. There was a LOT of baked on crud and grease and I thought that was the problem. Cleaned everything up and found the race would not slide on the crankshaft??? Got out the measuring tools and found the answer. The end of the crankshaft was expanded will past the 1.125".
I had another crankshaft so I looked at the PTO end. It almost looks like someone bored the end and inserted some kind of tapered shaft and/or beat the heck out of the end and swelled the last 1/2"-3/4" of the crankshaft.
Can anyone think of a reason???
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By andrewLL
Hi, and a happy Christmas to all.
Looking for some advice here, a couple of years ago a bought a cheap K341AS on fleebay, the chap I bought it from said it would not run right and I think he mentioned breathing fire from the carb. He replaced it on his black hood Wheelhorse with a ‘Chonda’ engine. Since then it has sat at the back of my garage but another recent fleebay purchase was a black hood C105 with new engine. So time to do something, but not tomorrow! Turkey, but no sprouts is the order of the day.
I thought as a start I should sort the engine out, but can’t easily test it until it can be mounted on the tractor. I have started to strip it down and the oil is quite clean so hopefully it was looked after. Now for a few questions:-
The engine is painted grey but normally Wheelhorse have a red engine, could this be a rebuilt engine?, I guess the tractor it came off was mid 80’s so a possibility.
When I took the head off it was all quite clean and only took a light brushing and some carb cleaner sprayed on to clean it up. However the top of the piston is stamped with .003 and the block with +3. What does this mean, I thought oversized pistons were plus ten, twenty and thirty thousandth. Has this engine been rebored?
Measuring the valve gaps they are .013” inlet (.008 - .010”) and .020” out (.017 - .019”) is this enough out of tolerance to cause problems? If so it should be an easy fix to get it going again.
i am thinking of just buying a cheap replacement carb having had problems with a carb on my Raider (K301) after two rebuild kits it still leaked petrol and a replacement carb sorted it all (apart from stopping when v hot, see another post of mine)
The bore of the cylinder is very clean and no scratches so hopefully no problems there.
What do you think?
i don’t seem able to upload pictures from my iPad, it says only allowed 30.7KB, what’s going on? How do I sort it?
Andrew
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By midpack
I have a K341 that gave up a rod a while back. talk about "Big Bang Theory..." anyway, I tore it down to see how bad it got inside and to my surprise other than the rod, and the very bottom of the piston skirts the inside looks great!
the crankpin looked like it might have taken some abuse but i used a white stone (lightly) and some polishing paper and it must have been debris from the rod or piston because it came right off.
i took some measurements and it does show some wear. the crankpin measures 1.498 to 1.499 (low limit is 1.499) and out of round a full .001 (spec calls for .0005 max)
the bore measures .002 out of the wear limits and is out of round about .005. going to need a new piston anyway and i can bore it at work . no problem there.
my question is, would you re-use the crank in that condition? I can't grind a crank at work... lol
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