Jeff-C175 7,202 #1 Posted April 16, 2021 I ran a quick search and did not find an answer. For those of you who have used Terry's labels in your restorations, how did you accomplish removal of the old labels? I don't believe they will simply peel off. If they can and do peel, I'm SURE they will leave residue. Have any of you discovered which 'solvent' works best? I have them all and would like to use the best one FIRST! I typically hit them with a heat gun first ... anyone tried that also? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #2 Posted April 16, 2021 I use a heat gun (type for paint removal) and a plastic scrapper. Xylene to remove residue 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #3 Posted April 16, 2021 2 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Xylene Actually, that's the ONLY solvent I don't have handy at the moment! I JUST ran out last weekend... need to restock. I'll try Naphtha first. Ciao! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,600 #4 Posted April 16, 2021 Heat gun and a bit of gas on a rag for the remaining glue... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #5 Posted April 16, 2021 11 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: Heat gun and a bit of gas on a rag for the remaining glue... Not at the same time... 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #6 Posted April 16, 2021 35 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: Heat gun and a bit of gas on a rag for the remaining glue... Probably not OSHA approved but then again some of my NOS military vehicle parts were done in cosmoline. Instructions said to wash it off in MOGAS (Motor Gasoline for you civies) 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,173 #7 Posted April 16, 2021 I use a cup twisted wire wheel on an angle grinder, still have to get the residue glue off and I use acetone there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,155 #8 Posted April 16, 2021 Pinstripe eraser wheel 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranger 1,750 #9 Posted April 16, 2021 (edited) You can buy a product especially for removing the residue. I have a bottle somewhere. I’ll have a look tomorrow and post a pic of it. It came from the local agricultural dealer. I use a heat gun to remove the decals and then the solvent. I suppose WD40 would work also. The worst part to remove seems to be where part of the decal has been missing for a while, the glue seems to harden, get dirt in it, and take forever to shift. Doug. Edited April 16, 2021 by ranger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #10 Posted April 16, 2021 Well, I can tell you that I'm not using Gasoline! I just tried on the belt routing label on the deck cover. Heated it up to about 130° picked at the corner with my coke spoon... errrrrr, with my finger nail and got the corner lifted easily. S L O W L Y peeled it off and 99% of the adhesive came off with the label. The previously mentioned part that was hard and exposed from the label shrinking over the years came off quite easily with the Naphtha. Wet a small cloth rag with it, rub the residue and let it sit for a couple minutes. Rub with the rag. Some comes off easily. Let sit for another minute or two and rub again. Voila! clean as a whistle! (are whistles really clean? Think of that bacteria! OMG, how did we survive our childhoods? ) By the way, I believe that Charcoal Lighter Fluid is Naphtha and should work also. 13 minutes ago, ranger said: a product especially for removing the residue Not "Goo Gone" ? I never had much luck with that. Usually leaves a slimy gooey residue that is HARDER to get off! Another trick that I learnt somewhere along the line, but would not work for this... it's great for removing the residue left on your wife's 'chachki' glass ware when the price labels are peeled, is to take a piece of duct tape, Adhere to the residue, pull... repeat... the residue sticks to the duct tape and comes right off. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,604 #11 Posted April 17, 2021 6 hours ago, squonk said: Pinstripe eraser wheel This is my favorite way to remove decals. 4 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said: I believe that Charcoal Lighter Fluid is Naphtha and should work also. Followed by cleaning the residual with simple charcoal lighter fluid. Lighter fluid will usually take decal residue off without damaging the paint. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #12 Posted April 17, 2021 1 hour ago, Achto said: my favorite way to remove decals I'll have to get one of those. I'd like to re-do the pinstripes on my wife's car, that should get an easy "OK" to buy the tool! I took the two CAUTION decals off the deck. They were a little more difficult because they were pretty beat up. Lots of scratches through them that made them come off in lots of pieces. But it wasn't too difficult really. Yes, I did a 'sniff test' between the charcoal lighter and the Naphtha and I do believe they are one and the same. At least that's what my nose says. The fine print on the lighter fluid bottle was too small to read. Then I started getting hungry for burgers... Funny how that works! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,320 #13 Posted April 17, 2021 8 hours ago, Achto said: cleaning the residual with simple charcoal lighter fluid. Lighter fluid will usually take decal residue off without damaging the paint. I have always used rubbing alcohol to clean up any petroleum or other solvent residue before painting or placing a new decal. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #14 Posted April 17, 2021 3 minutes ago, 953 nut said: rubbing alcohol Pick up some 'Denatured Alcohol" next time. It's a stronger alcohol. I use a two step... Naphta first, then alcohol. Naphtha doesn't leave any residue, by itself it would be good enough by itself though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelhorseBob 1,549 #15 Posted April 18, 2021 (edited) A little heat and the decals will peal off. Residue is another matter. I used acetone. Goo gone and or goof off we’re useless. Edited April 18, 2021 by WheelhorseBob 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #16 Posted April 18, 2021 48 minutes ago, WheelhorseBob said: little heat I've found that the key is a LITTLE heat. Get it too hot and the adhesive separates from the label and stays on the part. It seems as though 120 is about the best temp, the adhesive comes off with the vinyl. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cschannuth 3,816 #17 Posted April 18, 2021 On 4/16/2021 at 1:42 PM, Jeff-C175 said: Actually, that's the ONLY solvent I don't have handy at the moment! I JUST ran out last weekend... need to restock. I'll try Naphtha first. Ciao! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cschannuth 3,816 #18 Posted April 18, 2021 In a pinch my wife’s hair dryer works well for removing labels also. Don’t ask me, or her, how I know, please. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #19 Posted April 18, 2021 2 hours ago, cschannuth said: In a pinch my wife’s hair dryer works well for removing labels also. Don’t ask me, or her, how I know, please. I think a hair dryer might be better than a heat gun because it's not TOO hot. I used my weakest heat gun and had to be careful to not overheat. I won't tell! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
haydendavid380 759 #20 Posted April 24, 2021 I'd add that the plastic razor blades they make now are mighty helpful as well. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,912 #21 Posted April 27, 2021 I don’t know how I missed this thread so far, but I didn’t see this. When heating, warm the back of the panel so it melts the sticky parts away from the surface. It does wonders 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #22 Posted April 27, 2021 3 hours ago, pullstart said: warm the back of the panel so it melts the sticky parts away from the surface. It does wonders I found that out myself. If you heat from the front, the vinyl gets too soft and will stretch and tear. Heating from the back, as you say, more or less eliminates this. Plus, you can use your hand on the surface of the label to judge the temperature. If you can't hold for 2-3 seconds, it's TOO HOT! (about 130° or so) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites