Here ~She~ goes again...

[ebinmaine 67,766]

Also got the no start condition assessed and repaired. 

Spark plug. 

 

 

 

Trina made and installed new super wicked heavy duty Heim Joint tie rods. 

She drilled out all four holes to 29/64 to accommodate the 7/16 studs. 

 

 

 

 

She also made up this super wicked incredible high tech oil director tool. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,281]

McTrinaguyver?

[ebinmaine 67,766]

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

McTrinaguyver?

 

 

More than you could possibly know

[ebinmaine 67,766]

On 11/26/2023 at 8:11 AM, 953 nut said:

You can check the battery voltage at rest and while running at half throttle. If there is an increase in voltage your charging system is good to go.

It has been some time since you were doing the wiring so I don't remember if you used a solenoid or what light socket you used. The generator light should have two wires coming from it and neither one will be grounded, the Cole-Hersee  PL 20 RC is the correct socket. If you used a solenoid and 103-990 ignition switch with a Starter/Generator the drawing below is the one you want to follow. 

 

 

 

I gave this post the once-over, twice. Then compared to the tractor. 

 

(Unfortunately??)  It looks correct. 

.....but that 🤬 lamp is constant on.  

 

 

So I obviously have more diagnostics to do. 

 

If anyone has bench tests or places to look I'm all ears. 

[ebinmaine 67,766]

I did get the proper ish engine oil drain pipe on. 

It exits the opposite side from normal but I'm limited to space here. 

If it doesn't clear the plow control I'll modify as needed.  

 

 

[Handy Don 12,281]

27 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I gave this post the once-over, twice. Then compared to the tractor. 

(Unfortunately??)  It looks correct. 

.....but that 🤬 lamp is constant on.  

Not familiar with this setup but very curious. 

I’m assuming the lamp is intended to replace the ammeter and, again assuming, it should be lit whenever the S/G is not charging?

[ebinmaine 67,766]

5 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Not familiar with this setup but very curious. 

I’m assuming the lamp is intended to replace the ammeter and, again assuming, it should be lit whenever the S/G is not charging?

That's logical 

[Lee1977 6,682]

 

Just a quick guess the, the wrong key switch or a bad key switch. The switch doesn't show what is on and what is grounded when off.

The only time I had trouble with a generator light was when I changed a 292 with a generator to a 302 with an alternator. Fire it up and the generator light would come on, rev it up the light would go off and everything was fine.

If electricity is giving a path, it will back feed. At a neighbor's house, the old 220 electric range had two screw in fuses up on the back between the controls. The ceiling light in the kitchen came on with the switch off if the range was turned on. I found one of the fuses blown causing the back feed. 

[ebinmaine 67,766]

We got the old girl out and plow hooked up the other day. 

Millie tractor was running fine.  

 

Trina started to move snow and got one pass before the engine made a noise and stopped. 

I'm hoping it has a sheared flywheel key.  

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,766]

On 1/31/2024 at 12:00 PM, ebinmaine said:

We got the old girl out and plow hooked up the other day. 

Millie tractor was running fine.  

 

Trina started to move snow and got one pass before the engine made a noise and stopped. 

I'm hoping it has a sheared flywheel key.  

 

 

 

Several weeks ago we took a quick look at the engine. 

With of us were thinking and hoping that the flywheel key was the culprit. 

This morning Trina removed whatever was needed to get the flywheel off. 

 

We have the rare but undesirable two piece flywheel key. 

 

 

While in there I noticed that the 4 bolts holding the engine half around the crankshaft were loose. 2 were leaking. 

We found some new Grade 8 bolts, installed them, and torqued to spec. 

 

We'll pop in a crankshaft seal on that end before reassembly.   

 

[ebinmaine 67,766]

This should look familiar.

Do you know what this is?

 

 

It might look like shrink wrap on a roll but in reality that is not true.

This is a small block Kohler crankshaft seal driver.

 

 

 

Got the flywheel cleaned out. It wasn't bad. Just a little dusty really.  

Hand wire brushed the threads. Oiled them too. 

Installed the nut and torqued it to 90 ft lbs. 

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Great to hear it was just the flywheel key.

 

it shouldbe happen, that you take a closer look on the loosen screws.

 

That confirms my Statement once more:

„nothing is for less, it allway’s have  its reason.“

👍

[ebinmaine 67,766]

The other day we were looking at a but of oil on the 3rd and 4th fin down from the cylinder head. 

We believe after poking around and wiping some areas down that the head gasket may have been losing a little out the S/G side. 

 

We removed the head, cleaned more, checked for more issues,  and reinstalled the head. Torqued down to 20+ ft lbs. Well see how it goes. 

 

This afternoon Trina got everything all back together. 

 

We gave it a quick triple check and fired Millie up. 

 

Seems OK so far. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,766]

I could use a little help with a diagnosis on the electrical system. 

This tractor runs and drives fine but isn't charging the battery. 

Can you folks give me some initial points to check and where to go from there? 

 

 

 

@squonk @953 nut @pfrederi

[squonk 41,171]

Make sure the little wire from the bottom of the regulator to the genny " A " terminal didn't fall off or burn.

[953 nut 55,393]

I don't remember where I copied this from years ago but it is a good starting point for testing the charging portion of a S/G unit.

Troubleshooting Charging:

1. With the engine running more than half throttle, measure the voltage at the A terminal, it should be 13 to 14.5 volts.  If it is 12.5 or less, ground the F terminal, if the voltage goes up to 13 to 14.5, most likely the problem is the regulator. Other possibilities are the wire from the F terminal to the voltage regulator, and the ground on the regulator not being good.  If the voltage at the A terminal is 14.5 to 17 volts when you ground the F terminal, the regulator cut-out section is probably not connecting the A terminal to the battery.  If the unit is measuring 13 to 14.5 volts at the A [without an external ground applied to the F terminal] terminal, the voltage measured at the battery should be within .1 or.2 volts of the voltage measured at the A terminal, if it is the system is working correctly.

[ebinmaine 67,766]

I did some reading.

I did some learning.

I did some checking.

I did some testing.

I did some cleaning.

 

Been fiddlin' around with Millie a lot of the day.

 

The S/G is "starting" and "generating" separately from the voltage regulator. 

The VR ground is good. It appears all wiring is OK. 

 

I  disconnected the dash light to retest making sure the fault wasn't in the lamp somehow.

 

I pulled the regulator from Trina's 857. They test DIFFERENT across the resistance. 

I can't honestly say I knew what the readings meant but one of them had a 78 to 80 and the other one had a 4... something.

One of the YouTube channels said that the max was about six to seven and it was the higher one that was in the tractor.

 

So I finished cleaning up the one from the 857 and put that in.

 

Success!!

 

After just a couple minutes at full throttle the battery had gone from 12.2 or 12.3 up to 12.8 ish.

The charge light on the dash is out. I'm gonna call that a win for now.

 

Only thing I had to change in the wiring was make this little jumper cable. I wrapped it right up on both ends and I'm hoping it'll be all right. Should be.

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,766]

After changing the VR back in August the BBT ran the tractor about for a few weeks. 

Then the battery went dead...

I had checked the output at 12.5 to 12.8 volts back then. 

I found an old thread about adjusting the mechanical regulator. 

Now it's putting out a nice healthy 13.8 to 13.9. 

 

[Handy Don 12,281]

22 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Now it's putting out a nice healthy 13.8 to 13.9. 

Sensitive little fellows to adjust, though, aren’t they!

[ebinmaine 67,766]

23 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Sensitive little fellows to adjust, though, aren’t they!

 

I read the stuff. I looked at the things. I twisted that sucker MAYBE  3/8 of a turn. Went from 12.2, 12.3 all the way to 16!!!

 

So I backed it down most of what I turned it and it seems pretty happy there. 

[Handy Don 12,281]

12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 I twisted that sucker MAYBE  3/8 of a turn. Went from 12.2, 12.3 all the way to 16!!!

So I backed it down most of what I turned it and it seems pretty happy there. 

Yep. I did the same, thinking what would ¼ turn do? From 12.1 (the battery voltage at the time) up to 17 (and a little hit on the governor!)

Yikes!

Like you, in the end probably only a few degrees from the original setting.

I also learned that it must be allowed to “settle” in the new adjustment through a few slow idle-to-WOT-to-idle cycles over a few minutes to be sure of the setting.