Jump to content
bo dawg

Cylinder of Ark 508 loader

Recommended Posts

bo dawg

Is it hard to pull apart to replace seals? Any tricks? Or things to watch for?

B537040E-6892-46F8-B339-CA7B40613042.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

I was told to never tighten a cylinder in a vise because it can bend the tube.

If you anchor the far end and take the retaining ring out you should be able to use the rod like a slide hammer to pull it apart. Have the ports open when you do it.

That retaining ring appears to be backwards. You want the sharp side facing out.

 

Garry 

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
22 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

never tighten a cylinder in a vise because it can bend the tube.

:text-yeahthat:                   Leave the cylinder attached to the loader and have a BIG drip pan under the ram. Tie lots of rags over the ports where the hoses were connected because as you move the ram you will be pressurizing the oil in the cylinder.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bo dawg
3 hours ago, 953 nut said:

:text-yeahthat:                   Leave the cylinder attached to the loader and have a BIG drip pan under the ram. Tie lots of rags over the ports where the hoses were connected because as you move the ram you will be pressurizing the oil in the cylinder.

I have the loader all tore down piece by piece to do some fixing and welding. I’ll have to pull it by hand. Thinking of doing it outside and not worry about the oil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart
9 hours ago, bo dawg said:

Thinking of doing it outside and not worry about the oil


:confusion-confused:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bo dawg
5 hours ago, pullstart said:


:confusion-confused:

 

yea I know, not the smartest thing to do, but I guess im not a big environmentalist. Lol. I'll try to catch most of it. Just dont want to have to clean up the garage floor.

Edited by bo dawg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Lee1977
2 hours ago, bo dawg said:

 

yea I know, not the smartest thing to do, but I guess im not a big environmentalist. Lol. I'll try to catch most of it. Just dont want to have to clean up the garage floor.

That small amount of oil is just going home.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bo dawg

I got the snap ring out but still cant get the end piece to budge for shaft to come out. tried to get snap ring off other end and it is stuck. Whats the best way to break free?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • edwroy
      By edwroy
      Needs some help. Purchased an ARK Loader - Model 550 Serial # 573 - anyone know what year this might be?
       
      Thanks,
       
      Edwroy
    • boovuc
      By boovuc
      Well the Grange Fair was a short visit!
       
      Started uninterrupted work on the loader at about 1:30 this afternoon. Finished at 8:20! It was worth it. After some cutting, grinding, filing and minimal cursing because I had no time constraints, I got it on. Thanks to my Karen who slid the tractor under the mount while I held the frame up. (Never made the stands. Used the brace arms to get it off the blocks). No leaks, no seeps, no noises, and full function of everything. Pump is very quiet and barely moves the vacuum gauge on the tractor. Much less work for the motor than my 48 inch mower deck. 
       
      I didn't put the rear weight on so I took it easy and made sure everything was primed in the lines. Plenty of down pressure and fast movement. A big thank you to Malmac, Scott, Wallfish and the others who offered advice and posted pics of their loaders. The biggest pains in putting this on a 520 since it wasn't factory designed for any of the Onan powered tractors was the pump mount and the lever release/lock Attach a matic that is used on the newer tractors and the 1991 520-H. (My 1992 416-8 didn't have the lever design). 
       
      It required cutting out a long skinny triangle from the thick metal original sub frame to allow alignment of the frame holes and shortening the actual lever. (The frame cut took three cutting disks and a good portion of a fourth). I also had some issues with the nut/bolt used on the front mounting bracket. The first frame hole on each side has VERY little room to start a nut. (Because of the gear reduction steering assembly). On the positive end, the factory brace arms leave plenty of clearance around the Onan and hood. My suction line to the pump will need moved since it is in harms way. I think the pump is OK where it is at with a guard to be made soon. I'll work it harder on Monday and really heat the oil up and check again for leaks or seeps again. I do have to weld a wallowed loader lift cylinder pin hole but even it isn't too bad. The others are real tight. Not bad for as old as it is and for 500 bucks.
       
      This was always a real want for me so please excuse my over exuberance. This makes the beginning of the work week a joy! It might take until noon at work tomorrow to wipe this grin off my face! 


    • chevyaddict83
      By chevyaddict83
      So, i ended up rebuilding curl pistons, worked great. Now, having lift issues. If i pull on the lift lever slightly, i still get the arms to go up. If i pull all the way back, the whole thing drops. If i leave it raised and fill the bucket, it stays up and dumps fine. Is it something in the control valve? Maybe an adjustment?

      Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk
    • prondzy
      By prondzy
      So i have an ark 508 loader on my c160. I was wondering if any of the other Ark FEL owners could tell me if there is a "float" postion in the spool valve?
    • JackC
      By JackC
      I acquired an ARK 550 loader for my D-200. After I got it installed and tried to use it, the bucket cylinders would not hold the bucket in position with weight in the bucket.  It appears that the cylinders need to be be rebuilt. I can move the cylinders and bucket up or down by pushing one way or the other. I assume the control valve is OK but don't know.
       
      I checked with a shop that does hydraulic repairs and it sounds like it would be about $100 per cylinder to rebuild them and two weeks because the shop is very busy.
       
      Does anyone have experience rebuilding these cylinders, have a link to a repair manual and know the parts and tool needed?
       
      Thanks,
      Jack.
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...