jbibb1 2 #1 Posted March 31, 2021 I got lucky and found this D180 on FB marketplace and it came with a parts tractor. I looked up the model number on the parts tractor and it's a D180 too! I am curious what the parts tractor is worth, any input is greatly appreciated. I would love to hear anything you all have to say about what's the best route to these things 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pollack Pete 2,273 #2 Posted March 31, 2021 (edited) Worth exactly what you paid for the whole sheebang.I wouldn't worry about selling the parts tractor.Believe me..........you will eventually need parts off it.Those D parts are getting like hens teeth.Do a search here and you'll see what I mean.Spell c-o-u-p-l-i-n-g. Edited March 31, 2021 by Pollack Pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,622 #3 Posted March 31, 2021 (edited) D series engine to hydro couplers, steering components, muffler , engine parts the list goes on are hard to find and pricey. I would completely go over the "good" tractor to identify what it may need before i tried to get rid of parts tractor. For instance have you gotten the good tractor heated up and checked to see if she still had good power you may need parts for the hydro... For instance your good tractor appears to be missing an engine shroud. The are necessary for good cooling and are getting hard to find. Edited March 31, 2021 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 6,960 #4 Posted March 31, 2021 to the forum. I agree with the previous re plus. Consider keeping the parts tractor, as the D series is not as common as the other Wheel Horse tractors, and parts are harder to find. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,160 #5 Posted March 31, 2021 All the things mentioned above are spot-on re parts availability .... or lack thereof! But I'd like to also add some plusses for the "Big D" series - they are BEASTS, with incredible power and having that 3 point hitch adds a BIG plus in its versatility. Did you by chance get a mower deck in the deal? (I need a deck myself and while there will be one show up fairly often, but paying frt it kills almost any deal for me) Do take a good going over your new D, -- change oil in motor and hydro and just give it a good checking. Wiring should be given a close insp, if there are any safety switches left functioning either bypass them or inspect closely, they can cause a frying of the entire wiring. I just bought a D200 with fried wires that I traced back to the PTO safety sw and the Ammeter. I bypassed/removed all the safeties - only one was functional anyway - and added a voltmeter and rewired to a simple on/off/start. Consider replacing the ammeter with a simple voltmeter.... You should really enjoy that big boy --- I sure love mine! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jbibb1 2 #6 Posted April 1, 2021 Thank you all for the great input, I really appreciate it. I will start doing some inspections on the tractor very soon when I change all of the fluids. The first order of business after that will be making it start with the key again, now I have to jump the solenoid which gets old fast Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,160 #7 Posted April 1, 2021 Ok, heres one of the 'boogers' to work on right off the bat! The solenoid is well hidden behind a panel that you will almost certainly have to remove to get to. Its underneath the battery behind a panel with - IIRC - 4 bolts holding it. The solenoid should be a 3 wire, with the small conx the start one. Use your multimeter/tester and hook to that terminal and turn the key to start position, that should throw volts to that terminal.... if not then the switch itself may be bad or the wire itself bad. If yes, then the solenoid is prob bad, (they dont fail very often) The back of the sw should be lettered with - B,A,R,S,I - the S is the start wire and is a single wire. The switch is pretty bad about getting corroded and this is a likely source for your prob. (If you do need a sw, most any of the big chain auto parts houses have then for some $15) Same with the solenoid, its a common item at the parts store --- take yours with you to match up. The D200 I mentioned had this problem and I replaced the switch and had to also replace the start wire along with several others. Oh, and the connector for the 5 wires on the back of the switch when you get a short that plastic conx will melt, I have several of these, if you end up needing that............ In case youre wondering --- the letters on the switch are B- battery, A - access, R - regulator, S -starter, I - ignition. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jbibb1 2 #8 Posted April 1, 2021 Thank you very much for that info. I guess the PO had this issue for a while because he moved the solenoid out onto the frame rail so it's easy to get to. I will figure out which is the problem, probably the key switch and once that's fixed I will move the solenoid back to where it belongs. Thanks again for all of the great info Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,160 #9 Posted April 1, 2021 My solenoids are in the proper position, I just leave that panel OFF!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
