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seuadr

Mackissic mighty mack shredder on 520h

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D_Mac

Reminds me of the movie Fargo. Nice chipper scene in that movie.

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seuadr

Yay! my bearings came today!

 

I got both outboard bearings, a new drive pulley, the tapered bushing for the chipper wheel and a new clips and set screws.

PXL_20210608_143339051.jpg.f057b4486f10d2631c7ea88b6be38d5e.jpg

 

Also got a new knife kit

 

PXL_20210608_143438508.jpg.fc641b1795822623841524bdc5647969.jpg

 

soon as i get my oliver 550 steering sorted, i should be able to get this thing running!

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seuadr

finally had time to start to put this all back together. the bearings were on backorder, but, i have them now.

PXL_20210608_143339051.jpg.9e976b4cb8498aad8b0cc5928465458c.jpg

PXL_20210627_141831230.jpg.0d78cd17cfb8e3e5dd729b74ee7e9987.jpgPXL_20210627_141841999.jpg.7b97413d3890519806e81c1a6863810a.jpgPXL_20210627_141838638.jpg.f55c3b27a85d726f667d6192092eecbf.jpg

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ebinmaine

You know every once in awhile I remember that I told you I'd get the measurements off of my own input chute/ funnel...

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gwest_ca

Hope the hair pins holding the flail shafts in are temporary for assembly.

Have you seen the flail spacer drawing?

Flail spacing.jpg

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seuadr
5 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Hope the hair pins holding the flail shafts in are temporary for assembly.

Have you seen the flail spacer drawing?

Flail spacing.jpg

re: the pins - they are, yeah. i am debating putting in straight pins as the supplier said they no longer have a source for the tapered pins and suggested that i use straight ones, but i feel like i should have something a bit tougher than big box pins so was thinking about exploring the hardware store's pin section to see what they have that might work better.

 

in regards to the spacing, I believe that is how i have them, except that i am missing a couple of the narrower spacers from "row 3"  - i was actually considering seeing if i could cut to size some pipe for the purpose. I only have 1 bearing on right now, so i can remove the other side to take the rows on and off.

 

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ebinmaine

@seuadr

Any updates on this rebuild?

 

On 6/29/2021 at 1:16 PM, ebinmaine said:

You know every once in awhile I remember that I told you I'd get the measurements off of my own input chute/ funnel...

 

Did you ever get or do you still need these measurements?

 

 

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seuadr
On 5/14/2022 at 7:51 AM, ebinmaine said:

@seuadr

Any updates on this rebuild?

 

 

Did you ever get or do you still need these measurements?

 

 

i'm at a stage where i got the non chipper outboard bearing in, the shredder portion and the chipper wheel in, and i got side tracked by a bunch of other things and still need to get the other outboard bearing in.

i do not have those measurements, but, since it is still in pieces, while i need them, i don't need them anytime soon :D :D
 

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ebinmaine
6 hours ago, seuadr said:

I do not have those measurements, but, since it is still in pieces, while i need them, i don't need them anytime soon

This is good because as you can see it takes me a bit to remember to do things.   

😂

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seuadr
On 6/13/2022 at 7:25 PM, ebinmaine said:

This is good because as you can see it takes me a bit to remember to do things.   

😂

no worries!

i'm actually a little concerned about the fitment of the shaft and kinda thinking about taking it to have the balance checked

 

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, seuadr said:

no worries!

i'm actually a little concerned about the fitment of the shaft and kinda thinking about taking it to have the balance checked

 

How do you mean? Is it worn excessively on one side or something?

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seuadr
41 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

How do you mean? Is it worn excessively on one side or something?

no but in cutting the bearing off the one side i scored the shaft a bit deeper than i'd like - it is beyond the bearing surface, but, i'm a little worried about it

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ebinmaine
5 minutes ago, seuadr said:

no but in cutting the bearing off the one side i scored the shaft a bit deeper than i'd like - it is beyond the bearing surface, but, i'm a little worried about it

I can see your point of concern there.

 

Couple different sides of the same coin...

I know from experience operating my own that it spends and exorbitant amount of time chipping shredding vibrating chopping bopping shaking and generally bouncing all around which makes me wonder how much a little Nick in the shaft is going to matter.

 

Then again, because Mackissic is still in business I would be very prone to sending a picture or two over to them to see what they think

 

With the hammers in there bouncing around at an infinite number of angles it's possible that the rotational balance might not be that much of an issue to them.

It's also possible that it's even more important to balance the Center shaft because of that very reason.

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sjoemie himself
47 minutes ago, seuadr said:

deeper than i'd like

Depends on how deep the nick is but as long as you did'nt cut the shaft nearly in half I would'nt be too concerned about it.

The balance issue can be neglected IMHO since the shaft is in the center of the rotating mass. If for instance one blade of the chipper on the perimeter of the chipper wheel would be missing that would have some serious effect on the balance of the wheel.

 

If you scored the shaft pretty deep that could cause a problem with the structural integrity of the shaft sooner than it resulting in a balance issue.

Have any pics of said shaft? 

 

@ebinmaine sorry for hacking your thread :hide:

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, sjoemie himself said:

Depends on how deep the nick is but as long as you did'nt cut the shaft nearly in half I would'nt be too concerned about it.

The balance issue can be neglected IMHO since the shaft is in the center of the rotating mass. If for instance one blade of the chipper on the perimeter of the chipper wheel would be missing that would have some serious effect on the balance of the wheel.

 

If you scored the shaft pretty deep that could cause a problem with the structural integrity of the shaft sooner than it resulting in a balance issue.

Have any pics of said shaft? 

 

@ebinmaine sorry for hacking your thread :hide:

 

Not my thread brother man. The OP and me both have Mackissic chippers.

 

That said, never ever worry about hijacking or messing around one of my threads. I'll take all the information I can get and sort out what I don't want or need. Especially comedy. Got to have a good time.

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ebinmaine

@seuadr

I found this thread while hunting information so I can disassemble my own chipper shredder to adjust the blade. 

How's the project going?

 

@gwest_ca 

Garry if you have any quick advice or comments on removal and replacement of the knife please feel free to chime in. 

I did read the part about using penetrating oil and picking out the Allen bolt heads ...

 

 

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seuadr
22 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

@seuadr

I found this thread while hunting information so I can disassemble my own chipper shredder to adjust the blade. 

How's the project going?

 

@gwest_ca 

Garry if you have any quick advice or comments on removal and replacement of the knife please feel free to chime in. 

I did read the part about using penetrating oil and picking out the Allen bolt heads ...

 

 

i'm actually looking to get it buttoned up over the next couple of weeks, as we've got a lot of dead limb cleanup and pathways to make on the new property. we moved in to our new house in december.

 

downside is, i lost my shop, but that is temporary.

 

as far as removing the blade bolts, the chipper i have was really rusted and i ended up drilling the head off, then using a smaller bit and an easy out. one wouldn't even come out with that, so i ended up taking it to a machine shop. they re-did all 3 holes with new thread inserts (stainless he said, because it would help with them in the future)

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gwest_ca

I heat the heads with a map gas torch to release the Loctite on the threads sometimes twice. First one burns out the debris in the hex hole which is mostly pine pitch.

I use a 1/2" manual impact driver to loosen and tighten the screws.

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seuadr
11 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

I heat the heads with a map gas torch to release the Loctite on the threads sometimes twice. First one burns out the debris in the hex hole which is mostly pine pitch.

I use a 1/2" manual impact driver to loosen and tighten the screws.

how close do you need to get the "go/nogo" gauge when checking the blade?

I'm not really clear on how to use it (Mackissic sent me one.. maybe a measurement would be easier for me..)

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ebinmaine
7 hours ago, seuadr said:

maybe a measurement would be easier for me..)

I'd second that. 

 

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8ntruck

In regards to the nick in the shaft, the direction of the nick makes a difference.  One that is parallel to the axis of the shaft would not worry me as much as one that ran around the shaft.  A groove running around the shaft will grow fatigue cracks in the shaft much, much quicker than a groove in line with the axis of the shaft.

 

As Eric points out that shaft takes a beating when in use.  

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seuadr
13 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

In regards to the nick in the shaft, the direction of the nick makes a difference.  One that is parallel to the axis of the shaft would not worry me as much as one that ran around the shaft.  A groove running around the shaft will grow fatigue cracks in the shaft much, much quicker than a groove in line with the axis of the shaft.

 

As Eric points out that shaft takes a beating when in use.  

 this is uh, at about a 45 with the closest end being in the direction of rotation. i packed it with quicksteel and then sanded it down after it was cured.

it is well outside the bearing race so, it is probably OK, it is just someone GAVE me that attachment and i don't wanna ruin it because of negligence.

 

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gwest_ca
On 5/15/2023 at 9:57 AM, seuadr said:

how close do you need to get the "go/nogo" gauge when checking the blade?

I'm not really clear on how to use it (Mackissic sent me one.. maybe a measurement would be easier for me..)

The anvil in the chute is what gets adjusted. I used a piece of 1/16" x the length of the knife aluminum flat stock as a gauge. The hard part is getting the anvil screw heads cleaned out to take an Allen wrench. Heat helps soften the pitch and wood residue from the holes. It took me hours.

Placed the aluminum between the knife and the anvil - held it tight and tighten the nuts on the screws.

 

I suspect the early DR chippers and shreaders were supplied by Mackissic. Their replacement knives and flails may be a more economical option.

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seuadr
2 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

The hard part is getting the anvil screw heads cleaned out to take an Allen wrench. Heat helps soften the pitch and wood residue from the holes.

"Fortunately" mine are brand new. (i use quotes, because they are brand new because i had to have them machined) :D

 

 

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ebinmaine

@seuadr and @gwest_ca along with whoever else...

Thanks for sharing your wisdom and experience here.   

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