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D_Mac

Ok, So I bought this tonight... Now what??

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squonk

That's because it doesn't run and who knows if the trans is any good. I think that belt is 1/2" x either 28 or 29"

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squonk
14 hours ago, D_Mac said:

I dont drive to the deli I walk there !! Do you know the belt size ? 

If you drove you could carry more back! 

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D_Mac

Ok so my plans for bringing it over to a friends house fell through this morning. I did pick up the tires and got them mounted on the rims. Figured I would put some paint on them since they were off. Not my best work but better then before. I had to get 16 x 6.5 - 8 for it. Kinda wide. Tires I took off were 16 x 5.5 - 8. Was told that size was no longer made. Waiting on a steering wheel from @76c12091520h. Be a lot easier to move around. Price just went up !

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WHX??

Can never go by the tire size that were on it. Who knows what a PO did. Orginals would have been 16/6.50-8 with a sawtooth tread. WH molded in the side. See pic below. 

Replacement tires are like a box of chocolates that my wife eats..... you never know if they are gonna go on high or wide till she eats them. :lol:  Those do look a little wide and ballonish but not terrible. 

Good luck replacing the steering wheel you might need it.

Odd that it was broke like that. You know there are steel bars under that covering... just how does a PO abuse it that bad to break them?!?!  Just picked up the same tractor in '66 flavor with the same broken wheel.

20210320_171539.jpg

Edited by WHX24
speeling
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ohiofarmer

You don't really have to know a great deal about those engines to get a rough idea of its condition. Take out nine bolts to pull the head. It will not be hard to tell if the valves are sealing well enough to have compression. You can examine the bore and try to move the piston around the bore with finger pressure to see if it descends down its stroke and remains tight as it  travels. For all you know now, it could be just a chunk of carbon that broke free and is hammering around making the noise that makes them think that engine is shot.

I got a roller 1075 for free when I picked up a couple of decks. I hooked up a belt to it and the wheels turned. A 99 dollar Predator turned the wheels and she makes a great yard tractor for a dedicated sprayer.

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D_Mac

The tires I replaced i believe to have been original. The said Wheel Horse on the side of them. 

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WHX??

You just threw a monkey wrench in here Mac ... do those tires have WH molded into the sides? Yes you said they do. I only collect pre 67 and all of the '65  ones I have had come thru were 16/6.50's  I have never saw that size on the many 65s I have had come through my stable.

Interesting but going back in time would have thought  the Ponds would have used the same molded tires in 16/6.5 from let's say to early 64/65 through  maybe 1970? Surely the same rims that 6.5's would have come from the factory wirh?

   Guess I'm not going to call your pics fake. Another reason we like our pics here thank you sir.

Keep in mind here early 60's here on out were the boom years for :wh:. and they did that by keeping their manufacturing costs low and sales up due to using the same parts throughout those years.

True that tire size is long obsolete. You got me thinkin here and  doing some more research here. Keep in mind that is a special tractor you have ther since first year made. 

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D_Mac

Yes they did say " Wheel Horse" on the fronts. I would take a picture but I dont have them anymore. When I seen the Wheel Horse on the fronts I looked at the rears and the rears no not say Wheel Horse. They are labeled Goodyear. My nieces husbands family own a auto recycling place ... AKA Junkyard. He ordered the tires for me and mounted them on the rims. I can see if he still has them. I have no history on the machine to know if they are original tires and wheels to that tractor

Edited by D_Mac

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rjg854

All of the tractors I've had that were in the 60's had 16x5.50x8 tires on them. Branded :wh:   I've got a few of them as back-ups.  I like the saw-toothed tire because they seem to hold the roller chains on them better.

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OldWorkHorse
11 hours ago, D_Mac said:

The tires I replaced i believe to have been original. The said Wheel Horse on the side of them. 

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20210329_141531.jpg

Got the same ones on my 1257! Had to re read tire size like 2x never seen the 5.50-8

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D_Mac

Here they are

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WHX??

Just checked my 876 and by golly they are 16/5.50s ! I have a dozen mid sixties tractors most with original tires and all but this one have 16/6.50s.

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pfrederi

Interesting by 68 all the charger /electros had 16 x 5.50 .    Parts manual for an 856 shows 16 5.50 x8 with a wheel part number 5635 same part number on Commando 8's and Charger electros. 

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D_Mac

Well back to the drawing board. My friend who was supposed to help me go over this thing tomorrow had to put it off another week. I am going to need the space in my garage so I am thinking of turning it into yard art. Since I have to leave it outside why not ?? I may find room in my shed if I move things around. I also went to install the steering wheel replacement that I got from @76c12091520h. Thank You. Got the roll pin out but can not get the wheel off the shaft. Guess I am going to have to get a gear puller and try that. Any tips on removing a steering wheel? More I think about it, the less I want to install that Briggs on it. Guess I will keep it as yard art until I find a Kohler or someone makes an offer I cant refuse

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Pullstart

Don, you have quite a few friends right here that are willing to help.  You just need to be the hands and the eyes.  @WHX24 can surely correct me if I’m wrong, but as don’t know of a starter/generator equipped tractor having a push button.  I’d start with basics.  Trace wiring, it sounds wrong off the bat.  It might function still, but has been modified.  When the key is on, does the coil have power?  Where do the wires go from the push button?  I assume one is either the key switch or the battery.  Where does the other go?

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WHX??

The push button starter is not correct as it should have the 4988 70 amp start switch. They are still available from a couple of sources. 

My guess is a PO had the switch go out which is common for a 55 yo tractor and just used a push switch which will work if there is a separate switch to send 12 volts to the coil. 

Wiring on this tractor is wicked simple and a diagram in the manual. 

Tractor 1965 875 & 1075 OM IPL Wiring #245-246.pdf

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WHX??
10 hours ago, D_Mac said:

Any tips on removing a steering wheel

Getting the pin out is half the battle so you are almost there. 

Only two options to get it off .....first is to take the shaft to a press but the whole tractor may have to come apart UNLESS the lower pinion is pined on instead of welded. If it is pinned you can endeavor to remove that and get it off then the entire shaft can be removed out through the top with removal of the under dash collar. IPL does show a roll pin.

 Best to do this with the gas tank out. If the lower pinion is welded on to plan B.

 

Remove the remaining plastic around the center hub. from here you can either try grinding or using a cut off wheel to remove the center. You can also try a wheel puller with an appropriate bearing collar. A heat wrench may have to come into play here so be carful to protect the tractor. 

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D_Mac

I know you guys help me out a lot. I never would have got as far as I did on that Lambert project with out all your help. That being said I really dont want another project. I have said before... I used to repair leather goods ... shoes... luggage....zippers... My tool box is full of those tools. They dont help me much fixing tractors. I have a basic socket set , wrenches, and screw drivers. they only get me so far and I am ok with that. You all know even the simple projects can trip you up. Like today I am off to buy a gear puller to try and get this steering wheel off just so it will be easier to roll in and out of the garage. I dont have a multimeter to test any electrical .. I suppose I can buy one as well, but right now I dont have the time or the patience for another project. I am happy I bought this because I now have a deck for the 857. The deck is off being patched... because I cant do that either...when I get it back I can and will paint it get new decals and I will have it for the 857. I am happy with that 857.. Looks and runs great. I have room for one and thats the one I want...for now. So I paid 125 for the package. I have another 125 in the tires.. tubes.. steering wheel. Ill hold it for a bit, maybe an engine will pop up. If I can find room in my shed I will hold it longer. If any one is looking for a project just let me know.

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D_Mac
10 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

Getting the pin out is half the battle so you are almost there. 

Only two options to get it off .....first is to take the shaft to a press but the whole tractor may have to come apart UNLESS the lower pinion is pined on instead of welded. If it is pinned you can endeavor to remove that and get it off then the entire shaft can be removed out through the top with removal of the under dash collar. IPL does show a roll pin.

 Best to do this with the gas tank out. If the lower pinion is welded on to plan B.

 

Remove the remaining plastic around the center hub. from here you can either try grinding or using a cut off wheel to remove the center. You can also try a wheel puller with an appropriate bearing collar. A heat wrench may have to come into play here so be carful to protect the tractor. 

LOL see what I mean... just to pull the steering wheel you mentioned all these tools I do not have. So maybe just borrow a friends grinder and grind the thing off?

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seuadr
On 3/29/2021 at 3:19 PM, squonk said:

Fastenal sucks. I wouldn't trust them to ship a box of Bongo Monkeys to the Congo! 

for what it is worth, i've had nothing but good luck with them - probably a lot of it depends on how much of a hurry you are in, and how good the local guys are.

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squonk

Bust the plastic, borrow a grinder. Get a cut off wheel that fits the grinder. Easy. I thought when you bought those tires they were going to be for the other tractor.? I will have an 8HP Kohler at the end of June if the show happens. Maybe sooner if it gets canceled.

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squonk
7 minutes ago, seuadr said:

for what it is worth, i've had nothing but good luck with them - probably a lot of it depends on how much of a hurry you are in, and how good the local guys are.

I had to ship a tiller a few years back. The manager said the tow motor guy only works half days. I was there at the wrong half. She said I could use their towmotor to unload it. Yeah Right! No other person there (3 guys) could do it. Had to come back the next day (had to take time off from work to do it.) I have needed simple fasteners. They have no clue over the phone. You have to go into see if they even have it. The place I retired from had a Fastenal acct. When I started there they were to outfit my van with tools. Most of the stuff they sent was junk.

Edited by squonk

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seuadr
2 minutes ago, squonk said:

I had to ship a tiller a few years back. The manager said the tow motor guy only works half days. I was there at the wrong half. She said I could use their towmotor to unload it. Yeah Right! No other person there (3 guys) could do it. Had to come back the next day (had to take time off from work to do it.) I have needed simple fasteners. They have no clue over the phone. You have to go into see if they even have it. The place I retired from had a Fastenal acct. When I started there they were to outfit my van with tools. Most of the stuff they sent was junk.

fair enough, only thing i've used them for was shipping stuff. they aren't always fast, but they've been economical. usually stuff is small enough i can man-handle it if needed attachments, motors, etc. 

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WHX??

@rjg854 @squonk Why don't you just make him that offer that he can't refuse and go save it!! :occasion-xmas:

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rjg854

I would but he keeps dumping money into it and he still doesn't even know if it'll run so he's adding money to it that he really can't get out of it.

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