convert Eaton 1100 to 8 speed

[David414 289]

I have a 312-h with an Eaton 1100 transmission. If the pump or transmission fails on the Eaton and the cost is to great to fix,  can I swap transmissions with an unidrive  8 speed gear transmission that I have?  What does the  transmission swap require? I understand that I would loose the hydro lift and would require a change to a manual lift. What parts are necessary to change to a manual lift from the hydro lift? Has anyone done this swap?

[squonk 41,164]

Used Eaton's can usually be had for $150-$300. I got one at the show in Pa for $100 a few years back.

 

[Ed Kennell 38,249]

What are the symptoms of the 1100 that make you worry that it will fail?

[David414 289]

 @Ed Kennell  I stripped the 312-h down to the frame for a complete re-build.  Placed the complete transmission/pump as removed from the tractor on a dolly for storage about 2-3  months ago. No leakage, perfectly dry. Today, I discovered much oil on the dolly and garage floor. Don't know why this happened as the dolly has not been moved or touched. The transmission is stored in its normal upright position, supported, with no pressure on the metal hydraulic lines. 

 

My question on the conversion from hydro to gear is one of can it be done, and what does it take to do it.

Thanks

[Ed Kennell 38,249]

There have been reports of unexplained burping of these transmissions while sitting in storage.      Another quirk is some require a long warm up before the lift will operate.   

Neither are a sign of a failing transmission.

 

I agree with Mike @squonk,  If it fails, look for a donor 1100 hydro instead of an 8 speed.

[JAinVA 4,619]

Yes you convert to an eight speed. You will need ,the clutch release gear. Then the clutch spring. Different engine pulley and belt. You 'l need  to get the lift system changed out in the hood stand. With all said you can convert but unless you have a 8 speed doner complete it can be expensive and frustrating. 

[Handy Don 12,244]

Biggest issue for the change is the cross-tractor shaft for the mid-tractor rockshaft. It has to be swapped out since the actuator ends for the hydro cylinder and for the manual lever are different. The internal arms to which the implements attach are on a collar that slides over the shaft. The collar is kept centered by two R clips and has a woodruff key to lock it to the shaft (not sure if there is a set or grub screw there). There are some threads here where people got them out easily and others where they either abandoned the effort or cut it up--the culprit is rust (nature's welding) and that there is no easy way to attach a press to force it.

 

After that?

Need a clutch pedal, the linkage, and the belt tension release pulley and spring, plus the shaft that runs through the tractor (because the shift tractors expect clutch on left).

Because the clutch displaces the brake on your hydro, you need that pedal and to re-do the brake linkage through the tractor as well.

Drive belt is a different length (trans pulleys are different sizes).

Hoodstand floorplate has to change for the shifters.

Left side cover has to be the one with the hole in it for the lift arm.

Remove the hydro lift control lever?

 

I concur with @JAinVA that a donor roller is far less trouble. I recently put the "topside" of a 518 onto the chassis of a 520 to get the hydro and lift. It takes some time but all in all it was ok.

 

Edited March 28, 2021 by Handy Don

[David414 289]

6 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

There have been reports of unexplained burping of these transmissions while sitting in storage.      Another quirk is some require a long warm up before the lift will operate.   

Neither are a sign of a failing transmission.

 

I agree with Mike @squonk,  If it fails, look for a donor 1100 hydro instead of an 8 speed.

Where does the oil "burp" from? Can't seem to find exactly where the oil is coming from, but it appears to be on the left side axle housing?

[Ed Kennell 38,249]

I never had it happen on any of my 1100s, but I believe it comes out the fill tube.       If yours is leaking at the axle, it probably simply needs the axle seal replaced.    This is an easy replacement  after you get the hub off.

[953 nut 55,329]

I presume the rubber hoses to the lift valve were left attached to the transaxle and tied up above the transaxle when stored. If not that may be the source of the leak.

[David414 289]

@953 nut  @roadapples @squonk @Ed Kennell  Good assumption but no, the hoses where removed and metal screw in plugs installed in the transaxle / pump to prevent any contamination. Sealed tight, no leaks. I don't think the oil leak is from an axle seal, as oil appears above the axle seal on the transaxle housing. When I get some time, I will have a closer inspection.

[squonk 41,164]

How about a pic of where the oil is? 

[clueless 3,005]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

How about a pic of where the oil is? 

Even if you have an 8 speed already I would think with everything else your going to need and time spent making the swap, repairing the Eaton or replacing it with a good working one would be money well spent. You already have it out of the tractor, clean it up and find out where it's leaking, unless it a crack or a hole in it it's most likely repairable and far easier than the swap. If it just been sitting there undisturbed for awhile and just started to leak recently I'm thinking more likely a seal or gasket.

[David414 289]

Not the best pictures but the oil is on the top of the axle housing (opposite the filter). Its very hard to tell where the oil is coming from as I don't have full access to inspect at this time. any thoughts?

[squonk 41,164]

My best guesses are seepage from drain plug and oil line flare connections. 

[Ed Kennell 38,249]

We need to pick it up , clean off all oil and sit it on a clean paper to find the leak.     

[Damien Walker 246]

I'd also check the two external steel pipes for rust: large diameter from transmission to pump and small diameter from filter back to the transmission. My filter return pipe burst on first usage after rebuild due to po neglect.....grass cuttings accumulated around the pipe and it was stored outside....the soggy mass doing the damage.

 

The filter return pipe appears to run at a fair pressure (obviously not in your case!) and in my case it was spraying out through the tiniest of holes.

 

I'd check the two pipes very carefully before you rebuild anyway....the filter return pipe is a @#$%^&*! to replace with the transmission in situ

[Handy Don 12,244]

9 hours ago, David414 said:

Not the best pictures but the oil is on the top of the axle housing (opposite the filter). Its very hard to tell where the oil is coming from as I don't have full access to inspect at this time. any thoughts?

 

 

Pretty sure that two bolts that hold the seat/fender support bracket to the transaxle go through into the transaxle. The are right at the top of the oil level when its full (some guys when filling their transaxle remove one of the bolts, add oil until it comes out of there, then replace the bolt and finish filling to avoid the slow fill via the dipstick tube). Anyway, if either of those bolts is in loosely and a full trans got moved around, some oil might well come out. It'd pool in the space between the bracket and trans casting and then ooze down the side in a way that might drive you crazy hunting for the source--I think.

Edited March 30, 2021 by Handy Don

[David414 289]

@953 nut @roadapples @squonk @Ed Kennell @Handy Don @Damien Walker

 

Gents, first of all thank you for the help and insights. Taking advice, I cleaned the transaxle and put on blocks, and leveled with shims in all four directions. No immediate location of oil leakage is apparent. This is my first experience with a hydro and wonder if, when the transaxle was on the dolly, it was not level, but tilted at least 3-4 inches to one side from level. Could this force  oil out somewhere after months of storage?

Also, between the hub and axle housing, on the axle,  there appears to be a spacer which is loose? Is this normal? 

The transaxle was leveled after the pictures taken. There is no pressure on the oil lines or bottom drain plug, all the weight is on the front and rear casting. I will inspect after 24 hours and see what happens.

Thanks,

[Ed Kennell 38,249]

3 hours ago, David414 said:

Also, between the hub and axle housing, on the axle,  there appears to be a spacer which is loose? Is this normal? 

 

No, got a picture?     Could it be the axle seal?

[David414 289]

15 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

 

No, got a picture?     Could it be the axle seal?

No leakage from this area.

[Ed Kennell 38,249]

Nope, not the seal.     Does the axle move in against the spacer.    Could be a PO put it there to act as a thrust washer.

[lynnmor 7,315]

That plastic washer between the hub and transmission is factory.

 

My 1100 peed again today, it is normal if stored for a long time where the temperature has wide swings.

[Ed Kennell 38,249]

22 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

That plastic washer between the hub and transmission is factory.

 

Do you know what year they started that  and what was the purpose ?        None of my old 1100s have a washer.

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,326]

I had a thought is it possible that the trans collected moisture which froze over the winter and it is now thawing some how causing the leakage. I have to check all of my tractors for moisture every spring ( they are stored in my shed after ever use) due to the moisture in the air that collects in the trans. Had to drain and clean and fill with new fluid more than one of the them.