DennisThornton 4,769 #26 Posted March 29, 2021 9 hours ago, Handy Don said: It is amazing how much electrical resistance a bit of rust or corrosion can cause. I've become a devotee of dielectric grease applied to connections after I clean them. Same with batteries. I use: NOT wire brushes and then I cover my nice clean terminals and cable clamps inside and out with petroleum jelly (or whatever grease I have near by...) Packed into and around the nuts as well. Never had a corroded battery connection since I've been doing that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
krystolo 504 #27 Posted March 29, 2021 Folks, I’m not feeling good about the oil on the spark plug. The brief reading I’ve done doesn’t sound promising. the oil was just changed. Maybe overfilled it? What are some benign causes that I can rule out? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,059 #28 Posted March 29, 2021 2 hours ago, Handy Don said: @gwest_ca, did this apply to regulators made for three wire or were they built as 2-wire regulators. To me, this wiring looks like it could overdrive the coil. This applies to the large 3-wire regulators. Long time ago I dug into one because an AC terminal was rusted off. When I got inside discovered the one needing replacement was connected to the DC+ terminal just inside the potting. So I just joined the wires outside the regulator and it has worked great for 40 years. This can only be done with one of the AC terminals. If the wrong one is rusted off it will not work. Then I discover a 2-wire regulator was used on the 1982 models. 3-wires going to a 2-wire regulator joined just like I had done it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,251 #29 Posted March 29, 2021 Got it, I think, @gwest_ca So in testing for resistance, there would be 0 Ω between the DC terminal and the AC terminal that were joined inside anyway, if I am following you correctly. Given that @krystolo's tests didn't show that either of the AC to DC pairs had 0 Ω, it doesn't appear that his current regulator meets your conditions--either it was built differently or else the "bad" side on his is the one that might have had the AC and DC ganged together. So no joy here, right? So can he implement a short term workaround by connecting one stator AC lead to the "good" side of the regulator and the other stator lead to ground (keeping the DC connection to the ignition B terminal in place and, of course, having a battery installed)? To me, this lets the stator continue to generate AC that one side of the regulator will turn into regulated DC at half of the normal capacity. This does assume that the regulator portion of the unit is still functional and the internal problem is just a burned out diode. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,059 #30 Posted March 29, 2021 Here is an old thread on the large regulators. It is a good read and 91 pages Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
krystolo 504 #31 Posted March 29, 2021 @gwest_ca Thank you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
krystolo 504 #32 Posted April 6, 2021 Does anyone know the part number for the rectifier? Poking around on ebay, and I see a few, but they look a little different than the one on my tractor now. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites