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iam206

Newbi with a Bronco 14 and lots of questions

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iam206

Hello Gentlemen, (yes I assumed your gender)

New to the garden tractor world. I made a few purchases this spring. First is, and what is relevant to this forum, is a 71 Bronco 14.

Ill see what I can do to figure out how to post pic..

It is in running condition, but will need some attention. first it needs a carb cleaning and then the ignition system addressed. so I will need to pick some brains around here as to where I can find info on here as to a thread on how to go about that.

I looked threw the owners manual section and didn't see my model tractor so any help with that would also be appreciated. 

 

I bought a front "a frame" plow blade for it, little unsure if I got the right set up. I think I am missing some bracketry to attach to the hydraulic lift I did get a rear bracket for the axle though, so I will need some info on that and how it hooks to the hydro. 

 

I am missing the rear lift bracket and a cable, but don't know what I am looking for in a bracket??? I want to run a box blade of some sort on the rear. I plan to dig up and re-stone my driveway this spring.

 

I ran it around the yard some today, The motor ran decent, has some backfiring on occasion and a slight miss, hence my need to address that, but overall good test drive. Learning the controls. The drive belt to the hydro trans is quite noisy when engaged so, I need to investigate that and do general maintenance to pulleys ect. . The steering is a little loose at the rack and pinion area so a fix is needed for that, I am also suffering from a lack of braking system. the pedal moves the hydro drive lever back to the neutral position, but is it supposed to have an actual brake??? the hydro lever is quite sensitive around neutral also, like the neutral creeps forward so i pull back slightly and it takes off in reverse. Don't know if I am explaining that properly.

 

I am also i need or a repair idea on one of the hydraulic lines to the front of the lift piston. it was repaired with a piece of coper and is leaking. so I need the fitting replaced at the piston and a hydraulic hose, or a cleaver repair idea.

 

So yea, it runs and drives, but needs attention to almost everything :

 

I think I have enough questions for my first post on here. so try not to beat me up too much. :P

 

Thanks,

David.

 

 

 

The sears 12 is the other tractor I bought. but that is another story for a different forum. :)

 

 

 

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8ntruck

:text-welcomeconfetti: to the forum.  Lots of good folks here who are willing to help.  If you've got questions ask away.  Somebody will be along who has seen whatever problem you have and has solved it.

 

A carb rebuild on a Kohler is very easy.  I use spray carb cleaner and torch tip cleaners (gently!).  Takes less than an hour, unless the carb is really filthy and needs soaking.  My local hardware store stocks the rebuild kits for the carb for somewhere between 10 and 20 bucks.  One thing you will want to check on the carb is for excessive play between the throtitle shaft and the carb body.  If it is loose, it can be repaired with brionce bushings typically available in the small parts drawers in the hardware store.

 

Something else you should consider is changing the fluids in the engine and transmission.  New air and transmission filters are a good idea too.  A trip around the tractor with a grease gun won't hurt either.  Doing this gives you a known starting point for your maintenance.

 

While this is primarily a Wheel Horse site, we also enjoy other brands.  Go ahead and post about your Sears in the alternate brands section of the forum.

 

Good luck and have fun.

Edited by 8ntruck
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iam206

Thanks for the welcome.

Yes, I need to do the oil and trans fluid and filter. thats on the list for the weekend. along with pulling the carb apart to give it a clean.

Didnt know we had an "Alternitive brands" section, awesome.

Thanks,

David.

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ebinmaine
3 hours ago, iam206 said:

Thanks for the welcome.

Yes, I need to do the oil and trans fluid and filter. thats on the list for the weekend. along with pulling the carb apart to give it a clean.

Didnt know we had an "Alternitive brands" section, awesome.

Thanks,

David.

Welcome David. 

We love our Horses and most others. 

"Other Brands" for the Sears. Lots of folks here for help if all kinds. 

 

Do a site search for baseline or base line to see what others here do for new to them tractors. 

 

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SylvanLakeWH

:text-welcomeconfetti:

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Pollack Pete

Love it.Looks like a good project.Also love the Sears tractor.Have fun with your new toy.

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gwest_ca

Welcome to the forum.

The ID plate can be seen under the dash in the 2nd photo you posted. Post those numbers and will add them to the list.

This link will take you to 21 files on the model 1-0420. There was also a model 1-0421 in 1971.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=1-0420&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

 

Garry

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953 nut
6 hours ago, iam206 said:

I need to do the oil and trans fluid and filter.

:WRS:                                         :text-coolphotos:

Your transmission may have 10 W 30 motor oil or ATF in it.  Check the color of the fluid on the dip stick, if amber it is 10 W 30, if red it is ATF. the filter you need is the NAPA 1410 or Wix 51410. To drain the fluid it is best to jack up the front end of the :wh: so all the old stuff will be removed.

6 hours ago, iam206 said:

missing the rear lift bracket and a cable, but don't know what I am looking for in a bracket?

 

6 hours ago, iam206 said:

I need the fitting replaced at the piston and a hydraulic hose,

Lowell @wheelhorseman can fix you up with a new proper hose and the rear lift, give him a call.  https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/

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953 nut
6 hours ago, iam206 said:

I am also suffering from a lack of braking system. the pedal moves the hydro drive lever back to the neutral position, but is it supposed to have an actual brake??? the hydro lever is quite sensitive around neutral also, like the neutral creeps forward so i pull back slightly and it takes off in reverse.

The Sundstrand has no mechanical braking system, the hydro stops the tractor from moving when in neutral. The Hydro lever being sensitive around neutral is commonplace. There is a spring loaded friction device on the motion controller that can be adjusted to take care of that, see page 22 (part 1) of the manual below. This manual will tell you how to set the neutral adjustment too.

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/

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Pullstart

:text-welcomeconfetti: David, nice Bronco!  
 

It seems you have been dealt what you need as far as your maintenance items.  I can only suggest when you give it a grease job, jack up the frame under the engine so you can relieve the pressure on the front axle pin, spindles, etc.  that’ll allow the grease to get where it needs to be.  I can also suggest (though it seems you get this already) that we really like pictures!

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Ed Kennell

:text-welcomeconfetti: to the :rs:  David.        Thank you for saving a great not so common Wheel Horse.       It looks like the boys have given you some great advice.

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iam206

Hey guys, thanks for all the posts and great info. I will filter threw the stuff when I get home.

I did power wash it so I will get pics of it atleast free of grease.

Lol.

I'll try to keep up with my progress on it.

Thanks again guys!!!!

David.

Edited by iam206
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roadapples

Change those fuel lines while you're at it. Ethanol eats them from the inside and will give you fits with your carburetor. And:WRS:

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oliver2-44

Here's a checklist I've been developing as I get a new to me tractor and go through it.   I don't automatically do everything. it's sort of a progressive thing as I find problems or wear areas. 

1056 Minor Overhaul Checklist.ods

 

When you get to looking at your loose steering, post some pictures.   I'm amazed at the little details the guys here spot in a picture.  When you have it jacked up to grease the front end (and the weight off everything) is a good time to wiggle everying on the front end to check for play/wear.   

 

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Ed Kennell
6 hours ago, Achto said:

:WRS:  A few friends and I did a resto on a Bronco 14 last winter for a friend of ours. Here are some pictures of the end result.

 

 

IMG_20200509_090356915-min.jpg.c77c0db7d657b37df3e900e2eddab8e9.jpg

 

    Ha Dan, got any close ups of that blade angle lever arrangement....unique  custom.       Is that a short plow framw on a long frame tractor?

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Achto
1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

  Ha Dan, got any close ups of that blade angle lever arrangement....unique  custom.       Is that a short plow framw on a long frame tractor?

 

It's a custom set up for sure. Needed to accommodate for a limited reach. The plow frame was originally for a short frame tractor. It was stretched to fit this Bronco 14, pivot handle placement was moved, and a custom cable set up to pull the lock pin. When finished, it worked very smoothly.

IMG_20200410_102011727-min.jpg.8b54aaf12e85f683a0acc8ad01438a56.jpg

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IMG_20200415_175301421-min.jpg.188a3025bcf448ecd76c845152dcdae0.jpg 

IMG_20200410_175952181-min.jpg.207ba541956b4453cecc641e3c65b94b.jpg

Edited by Achto
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Mike in NC

Welcome!  I am glad to see another Bronco 14!!

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iam206

Soooo, I have been looking for hitches and stuff, got a question.

 

If I find and install one of these clevis  hitches...

Can I run a box blade like this one???

Or a cultivator?

 

Since I have no hitch and no cable, what do I need and from what donor tractors?

 

Thanks,

David.

 

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ClevisHitch.gif

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R Scheer

I'd check with Lowell at Wheel Horse Parts and More.  I purchased his hitch kit, well made and had all pieces required.

 

Otherwise you can post on the classified section of the forum.

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953 nut
2 hours ago, iam206 said:

I have been looking for hitches and stuff, got a question.

 

If I find and install one of these clevis  hitches...

Can I run a box blade like this one???

Or a cultivator?

 

Since I have no hitch and no cable, what do I need and from what donor tractors?

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/              Lowell has everything you need, take a look.

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Searcher60
27 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/              Lowell has everything you need, take a look.

 

Is the Brinly style hitch like shown in his picture considered superior to the cast iron genuine Wheel Horse hitch? Or, is the Wheel Horse hitch superior? Thanks.

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Achto
1 hour ago, Searcher60 said:

Is the Brinly style hitch like shown in his picture considered superior to the cast iron genuine Wheel Horse hitch? Or, is the Wheel Horse hitch superior?

 

The Wheel Horse slot hitch is designed for the use of Implements that were sold by Wheel Horse. A Brinly sleeve hitch will allow you to use a wider variety of implements. Both are equally strong in my opinion.

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iam206
18 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

The Wheel Horse slot hitch is designed for the use of Implements that were sold by Wheel Horse. A Brinly sleeve hitch will allow you to use a wider variety of implements. Both are equally strong in my opinion.

OK, trying to understand. Was what I pictured not a wheel horse hitch?

...and a Brinly hitch is bigger? 

 

Thanks,

David.

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