OldWorkHorse 3,045 #26 Posted March 26, 2021 (edited) 7 hours ago, 8ntruck said: CJ hubs I got was 82.5mm center bore, And they clear the WH hubs center ring just fine. Edited March 26, 2021 by OldWorkHorse 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #27 Posted March 26, 2021 Taller tires are out. While I may be able to raise the seat pan a bit, the running/foot boards won't clear. Just as well. It's a decision I won't have to worry about. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #28 Posted March 27, 2021 I had to chuckle a little while ago. I have my C-141, and my 656 in the garage. My wife came out for something, and commented on the wheels of the C-141. Said she didn't like the antique white color. She preferred the white, white that is on the 656. I told her not to worry, they were getting changed. I didn't tell her, I ordered $1000 worth of tires and wheels this morning. I hope she hates that antique white A LOT! 2 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,916 #29 Posted March 27, 2021 On 3/26/2021 at 6:00 AM, Gregor said: Taller tires are out. While I may be able to raise the seat pan a bit, the running/foot boards won't clear. Just as well. It's a decision I won't have to worry about. Could you convert to stirrup foot rests? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #30 Posted March 27, 2021 2 minutes ago, pullstart said: Could you convert to stirrup foot rests? Possibly. Don't want to change the look, that much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #31 Posted March 30, 2021 My wife got the credit card bill with the new tires and wheels on it. I got some "Honey Do Jobs" to do, me thinks 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #32 Posted March 30, 2021 Just now, Gregor said: I got some "Honey Do Jobs" to do Me thinks for a couple YEARS! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,659 #33 Posted March 30, 2021 21 minutes ago, Gregor said: My wife got the credit card bill with the new tires and wheels on it. Well it was nice having you on the site while you were around anyway... 1 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giddyap 1,569 #34 Posted April 1, 2021 Here is my C-81 I recently sold to illustrate the mods mentioned in this post to accomodate 25x10-12 tall tires. The raised seat pan also pivots up and back to access a tool box that replaced the wrap around gas tank and the cut out running boards. I dropped the front of the hood 2 inches to give the tractor a new profile. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #35 Posted April 1, 2021 I am a hairs breath away from ordering wheels and tires for one of the MF 14's. It WILL accommodate larger rears with no modification. I don't think it would even need wheel spacers. How many times can a wife kill a guy, anyway? There ought-ta be a law. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #36 Posted April 1, 2021 (edited) 9 minutes ago, giddyap said: Here is my C-81 I recently sold to illustrate the mods mentioned in this post to accomodate 25x10-12 tall tires. The raised seat pan also pivots up and back to access a tool box that replaced the wrap around gas tank and the cut out running boards. I dropped the front of the hood 2 inches to give the tractor a new profile. You forgot to mention the spotting scope for the artillery! Looks great! I like the 'rake' on the hood. Edited April 1, 2021 by Jeff-C175 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giddyap 1,569 #37 Posted April 1, 2021 ebinmaine was a great help when I needed spacers. He assured me the 1/2" studs were not a problem. The bore needed to be 82.5 mm and without a lip or NO hubcentric. I bought 2 pair of 1.5 " for a total of 3" on each side. The ad did not mention nuts so I asked to confirm complete with nuts since they were in the photo. And they came with the nuts. 2pcs 1.5" 5x4.5 to 5x4.5 1/2"x20 Wheel Spacers Adapters For Ford Mustang Jeep (ebay seller sealight_led) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Warning:Unsupervised 81 #38 Posted July 23, 2022 Fwiw: I run 23x10.5x12 Carlisles on a 414-8 but I still use oem bolts. So far no studs/spacers, no tractor mods to get them under its pan! Tires are mounted on 1987 Deutz Allis 914 (Simplicity) rims. I have like an an inch between gas tank/ mount and my tires inner wall. Not tried to remove deck since installed but' may have to remove one wheel or lift tractor up to remove its deck but idk? Fyi- My 42" decks off a late 70's C105-8 & clears everything? I rarely drop it so it dont bother me to do it but others may be bothered by this or some decks may not fit even? I have two long bolts (about 3.5") I stick through the back side of my hub just to hang wheels up till 2 bolts are in. Then I remove them. I've looked for reg studs but no one makes wheel studs this size? Even our speciality bolt centers cant get them. Sucks! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,659 #39 Posted July 24, 2022 2 hours ago, 123GO said: no one makes wheel studs this size? What size stud exactly? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,021 #40 Posted July 24, 2022 The hubs on a Wheel Horse are threaded. Press in studs would require drilling/reaming the holes in the hub for a proper press fit. The Wheel Horse hubs might be too thin for a standard automotive press in stud. If that is the case, the knurl on the stud would be exposed on the mounting surface side of the hub. That could prevent the wheel from seating properly on the hub, which results in broken wheels and studs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Warning:Unsupervised 81 #41 Posted July 24, 2022 (edited) 16 minutes ago, 8ntruck said: The hubs on a Wheel Horse are threaded. Press in studs would require drilling/reaming the holes in the hub for a proper press fit. The Wheel Horse hubs might be too thin for a standard automotive press in stud. If that is the case, the knurl on the stud would be exposed on the mounting surface side of the hub. That could prevent the wheel from seating properly on the hub, which results in broken wheels and studs. They make studs with one side that screws into a hub. They just didnt have them small enough for it. But yes most are pressed in & threaded on one end. I wouldn't press one in these hubs. Here's some.. https://www.truckandtrailer.parts/M-1265--Wheel-Stud-Spoke-Wheel-RH_p_18561.html?amp=1 Edited July 24, 2022 by 123GO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,659 #42 Posted July 24, 2022 22 minutes ago, 123GO said: They make studs with one side that screws into a hub. They just didnt have them small enough for it. But yes most are pressed in & threaded on one end. I wouldn't press one in these hubs. Here's some.. https://www.truckandtrailer.parts/M-1265--Wheel-Stud-Spoke-Wheel-RH_p_18561.html?amp=1 Why not just use 7/16 x 1½ bolts like several of us have? 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Warning:Unsupervised 81 #43 Posted July 24, 2022 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: What size stud exactly? That would be the same lug bolt threads we have on one end & any thread as big or bigger on the other end. Been a few yrs since I looked for those but 7/16-20 thread size maybe? Guessing? Sorry' dont hold me to that but same size lug we have. It dont matter what thread the outside nut is but you want it as big or bigger. See other sizes in link above if you ever locate the right size post it because they'd be appreciated by WH owners no doubt about it. I just never located the right size yrs back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Warning:Unsupervised 81 #44 Posted July 24, 2022 (edited) Why dont I use bolts? Oh that was over 10yrs ago & mines still factory. I wouldn't pay the extra nickle for bolts or studs either way..lol I didnt even pay for the two long bolts I use to hold my wheels up till I get a bolt in tight on mine. Im to tight for that even...lol Just saying their may be other options out there? Most screw in studs were in trailers from my understanding? They just screw in the front of the hub & your done messing with it all forever cause its like a car hub from then on. Nice if you can ever find them. Me pay for bolts? Are you nuts?..lmao Edited July 24, 2022 by 123GO 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob J. 1,942 #45 Posted July 24, 2022 I put 7/16” harden bolts in all my horses then use an acorn style lug nut. Much easier to do maintenance if tires are required to come off. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob J. 1,942 #46 Posted July 24, 2022 https://www.ebay.com/itm/143606388783 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,659 #47 Posted July 24, 2022 6 hours ago, 123GO said: Just saying their may be other options out there? They just screw in the BACK of the hub & your done messing with it all forever cause its like a car hub from then on. Note the above word adjustment... For the Herd Trina and I keep and maintain I buy many things in bulk. One of the things we do to ALL the Horses we build or work on is change the rear hubs over to studs and nuts as we reassemble. 7/16-20 x 1½ or 1¼ Grade 8 bolts. Standard inexpensive lug nuts. The bolts are US made and come from a Massachusetts vendor. Bolt Depot. Grade 8 is the same price as 5 so why not... I buy in quantities of 100 or more and have been known to resell to other Redsquare folks when they're looking to perform the same upgrade. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob J. 1,942 #48 Posted July 24, 2022 As far as wheel spacers I have one horse (B-80) with a set of them on. It widened the stance nicely. I used tuner lugs for the spacers and spacers came with the acorn style lug nuts. The B-80 is used to haul me around mostly so I’m not worried about strength. I’d do however believe it to be fairly strong. I have a C-100 I’m setting up as a puller. I will opt for the widest wheel I can get and no spacers for that. All other horses have hardened bolts and standard acorn style lug nuts. It makes it so much easier when it’s time to put the wheels back on for me. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Warning:Unsupervised 81 #49 Posted July 26, 2022 Yes bolts are fine, the main diff on bolts vs studs (if found) is a screw in stud won't spin around so there's no need to have an extra wrench on the backside to keep the bolt from spinning around. Longer bolt and nut on backside of hub to lock bolt in place works okay but the bolt can still spin occasionally making you get the wrench. Stud makes it like a car hub so only one tool is needed and then you can stop doin reach arounds..lol. If the 7/16-20 studs are actually located, the studs are the way to go and why cars/trucks/trailers etc are always made with them instead of people crawling under cars with a wrench holding each bolt still to pull a wheel off. "There are other ways of doin things", just say'n...lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,659 #50 Posted July 26, 2022 1 hour ago, 123GO said: Yes bolts are fine, the main diff on bolts vs studs (if found) is a screw in stud won't spin around so there's no need to have an extra wrench on the backside to keep the bolt from spinning around. Longer bolt and nut on backside of hub to lock bolt in place works okay but the bolt can still spin occasionally making you get the wrench. Stud makes it like a car hub so only one tool is needed and then you can stop doin reach arounds..lol. If the 7/16-20 studs are actually located, the studs are the way to go and why cars/trucks/trailers etc are always made with them instead of people crawling under cars with a wrench holding each bolt still to pull a wheel off. "There are other ways of doin things", just say'n...lol Not to be argumentative. I'm looking for a little education here. What kind of bolts are you using? And how are you installing them? When I use bolts in a Wheel Horse rear hub I use the exact same 7/16-20 thread that the original outside bolt-in lugs are. I put them in from the back and torque them to spec, on the strong side. After that all the motion is done from the front side of the hub. The bolt head NEVER moves. Unless I'm missing something.... I don't see how the bolt could spin. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites