876 trans

[Gregor 4,847]

I ordered a gasket for the trans. I'm afraid I will have no choice except to split it, and replace the gasket. It's leaking quite a lot. Sure glad I didn't put those new seals in yet. I should have left the hitch as it was. The pin in the 656 is also stuck, but the hitch will move up and down with a little help. I'm leaving that one alone.

[pfrederi 17,866]

You said you drilled into the pin have you passed the split point of the transmission housing??

[Gregor 4,847]

13 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

You said you drilled into the pin have you passed the split point of the transmission housing??

From the right side, yes.

[Gregor 4,847]

If my plan fails tomorrow, I will have to slice the pin at the seam. I did manage to get the roll pin out of the brake lever, but the lever itself seems to have no plans on going anywhere soon.  If I stand this thing up, on its left side, I think I can utilize a couple of bolts holes for a chain, and lift the right half off with my hoist. I won't do any of this, until the new gasket gets here. Besides the gasket, fluid, maybe a filter, is there anything else I need to have on hand for this job?

[oliver2-44 9,853]

When you split the hydro inspect the suction screen. Maybe someone had a picture of this to help

[Gregor 4,847]

I was looking at the parts diagram for the trans. I noticed a small seal on the shaft for the brake lever. I see Wheel Horse Parts and More has the seal. I am going to order one. I would lsom lke to order a couple of PTO pulleys that go on the PTO pedal and mechanism. It is a V pulley, about 3" in diameter I think. I have never been able to find a part # for this, WHP and M, has several V pulleys, but they do not give dimensions. Anyone know the #  ?   Thanks   Greg

[pfrederi 17,866]

This would go easier if you removed the hydro unit first 5 bolts (2 have to come out anyway to split the case) and a bit of wiggle it pulls straight out.    Before you start hoisting you will have to work all the way around the case at the seam with a putty knife or other sharp object then pry with a pry bar, chisel, screw driver to break them free, over the last 50+ years they tend to get stuck together.  Hoist isn't really necessary they case isn't that heavy

[pfrederi 17,866]

2 hours ago, Gregor said:

I was looking at the parts diagram for the trans. I noticed a small seal on the shaft for the brake lever. I see Wheel Horse Parts and More has the seal. I am going to order one. I would lsom lke to order a couple of PTO pulleys that go on the PTO pedal and mechanism. It is a V pulley, about 3" in diameter I think. I have never been able to find a part # for this, WHP and M, has several V pulleys, but they do not give dimensions. Anyone know the #  ?   Thanks   Greg

 

 

The brake shaft seal WH 5959 is CR SKF 4911

 

Pulley is 1623 comes with the deck  Center black pulley in picture

[Gregor 4,847]

37 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

This would go easier if you removed the hydro unit first

I see what you are saying about the hydro unit, but I think in my case, it's best to keep things as simple as possible.  The exploded view, really doesn't show much. Maybe it's just as simple as replacing that gasket also, I don't know. The exploded view shows a Fitting - Filer. Key # 35, part # 5991. I don't quite get that either.

I also think I am going to cut the seam with my small angle grinder and cut off wheel. It will cut 10 times faster, and I don't believe the little extra gap will be a problem. Unless someone tells me not to.

[pfrederi 17,866]

The Whole hydro pump motor comes off in one piece as i said 5 bolts .  You have to replace the gasket.  Also then you can remove the strainer for cleaning. WH#5992.  WH#5991 is the fitting the hydro filter threads on to.  I have never had a problem with one that required its removal.

 

I have only cut through the housing to free the hitch pin with a sawzall.  i woudl grues if your cut off wheel was thin it would be OK.

[Gregor 4,847]

It seems the Ponds have made a mistake. There are (2) KEY # 35 in the drawing. I think one of them should be 36. A strainer, as you describe. I guess I may as well jump in with both feet. The worst that can happen is I will have to find another 876, or anything with the same trans.  Wouldn't that be terrible.

 

 

 

My sawzall blade is .066. My cut off wheel is .056. I should have been using it the whole time.

 

The brake lever has refused to vacate the premises. It may be a case of cutting it off, and replacing it, or possibly making one. It looks pretty simple

[pfrederi 17,866]

The brake lever can stay till you split the case.  try a flange/bearing puller.  Or just some heat (since you are getting a new seal anyway) and pair of big pliers to twist the lever back and forth

[Gregor 4,847]

3 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

The brake lever can stay till you split the case.  try a flange/bearing puller.  Or just some heat (since you are getting a new seal anyway) and pair of big pliers to twist the lever back and forth

Had a small jaw puller on it, didn't work. I don't have a bearing splitter that small. NO MORE HEAT FOR ME !

I better go look at Amazon for a small bearing splitter.

[pfrederi 17,866]

After you drive out the pin work it with vice grips. It will move freely toll it stops then really push on it it is highly unlikely you will break the inside

[Gregor 4,847]

I did tap on it LIGHTLY with a hammer. SOMETHING moved, but it wasn't the lever. The pin is out.

[pfrederi 17,866]

The lever should move freely up and down over about a 5 inch range then stop.  When it stops the tap on the vice grips...

[Gregor 4,847]

My bad. It was the lever. It's off now.  Thanks

 

It's headed to the car wash.

[Gregor 4,847]

Here is my plan.

Remove the hydraulic pump unit, set the whole thing on it's left side, remove bolts and the right side case. Then shoot myself ! Maybe.

Even if it never works again, it will be a clean door stop with new gaskets, and seals. I looked all through the diagram, I didn't see any other gaskets or seals to be concerned about.

If you ever feel the need to slice one of these shafts out, DON"T. But if you are determined, use your 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cut off wheel. I cut this in less than a minute. Wheels are cheaper, ($20 for a 25 pack) actually thinner than a sawzall blade, an sooooo much faster.

Now would be a good time to my floor. I have made a he!! of a mess in here the last couple of days.

Edited March 24, 2021 by Gregor

[pfrederi 17,866]

You are going to need the WH# 5999 case gasket and the hydro motor to Transaxle gasket 5955 and the brake shaft seal  Lowell has all.  While yo have it apart examine the parking brake I will bet it is ground down.  You can build it up with weld and file grind smooth. Area of yellow line it should be straight across.  Clean the strainer with solvent and gentle compressed air.  Be careful they are very hard to impossible to find in good shape.

 

 

[Gregor 4,847]

6 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Lowell has all

Lowell ?

 

[pfrederi 17,866]

12 minutes ago, Gregor said:

Lowell ?

 

Wheel horse parts and more i though you had ordered the seal from him already

[Gregor 4,847]

Yes I did. I didn't know his name was Lowell. All parts are ordered from him. Seals, gaskets, and pulleys. Thanks for the #'s BTW.

[Gregor 4,847]

I received 1 gasket, and the brake lever seal for my trans. I assume the other gasket will follow shortly. At least I hope. I decided to split the trans, and make a pictorial archive of it. Someone may find it useful some day.

I know that to you guys who do trans and motors every other week, all this comes second nature. But to us newbies, having a motor start up and purr is a pretty satisfying feeling, after you have just overhauled your first one. Same with a trans, it can be intimidating, the first time.

I used my hoist and a chain to lift it on my cart. I don't know what the torque value of those bolts for the hydro unit, and trans case, but my 20V cordless rattle gun, wouldn't touch them. A 1/2" corded impact did though. After the pump and hydro unit were removed, I stuffed a towel into the hole to keep out as much debris as possible while scraping the gasket, and cleaning the surface.

The screen filter was removed, soaked, and blew out GENTLY with air. I understand these are hard to come by at times. There seems to be a small magnet on the outer end. It had tiny metal shavings on it. I used a bigger, better magnet to remove as much as possible.

The hydro unit is on the floor. It seemed very determined to get there, and I aided it all I could.

After the gasket surface was cleaned up, I used my hoist to lift it to my workmate, with the split table. Very handy for this sort of thing. When I lifted it, a LOT more oil came out, even though I thought I had drained it pretty  good. You might want to be prepared for this. I re-positioned my chain so I was only lifting on the top half of the case, after removing all bolts, just to keep a little pull on it. With putty knives, scrapers, and screwdrivers, it did finally separate, but it wasn't quick about it.I slowly lifted the top half, keeping an eye out for shims, bearings, keys, or anything else that might come tumbling out. Nothing did. I guess I was expecting a lot more than there was. I'm sure on an 8 speed, there would be. I'm equally sure if this was an 8 speed, I wouldn't be doing this.All the bearings look and feel fine, as far as I can tell.

The brake lever seems to have very minimal wear. This is probably because part of the linkage was gone, and used very little.

Now I just have to clean the gasket surfaces, rinse out everything well with brake clean or something, and re-assemble. I will spray the gasket with Permatex Copper, unless someone tells me not too.  Once I got it apart, I stood looking at it for a bit, wondering WHY I took it apart.

Oh yeah. I cooked the gasket trying to get that pin out. Yes you can cook the gasket with just a propane torch.  I did give the pin a few whacks with a hammer and punch, it didn't move. I kind-a figured divide and conquer right? Nope. I quit rather than risk breaking the casting. Like I said before, if this tractor NEVER has a hitch, I can live with it. If I want to pull something, I have 7 more tractors, with hitches. A  question. Is there a specific torque value for these bolts, or just tighten them up to the point of almost breaking? Whatever that is.

[Gregor 4,847]

After I got the trans split, I cleaned up all the gasket surfaces.

The 2 small holes in yellow, are oil passages. I plugged them up with a small bit of cloth. Don't forget to remove them !

I put a small tie wrap on the parking brake shaft. I don't know if it's even possible for it to fall back into the trans, and I didn't want to find out.

At some point, I forgot to take pictures between the hydro unit on the floor, and having it back on the trans. Oh well.  I even mixed up some bondo, and filled the holes and space I created, trying to get this this thing apart. I am no body and fender man though. I looked up the torque value for a 3/8 - 16 bolt. It said 15 ft. lbs.  That seemed like nothing to me, so I used my 20V cordless, and rattles them on. That may be right, or it may be wrong, but they are all tight. With lock nuts where needed, and red locktite on everything.

 

It's all cleaned up, polished up, and waiting for the mother ship to come back from the stripper, so it too can be prepped, painted, and everything reassembled.

 

 

This was a pretty simple, straight forward job, with no ugly surprises. But, like I said before, trans work, any trans work, can be intimidating to a first timer.

 

 to all for your help !  Greg