Damien Walker 246 #26 Posted March 25, 2021 35 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Big difference is that I believe Oldman's unit is magneto-fired while the P218 is battery driven. Fundamental difference is that on magneto you ground the coil to stop the motor and on battery, you open the circuit. Very different switching requirements. Oh yes I agree on the detail but the philosophy is fundamentally the same and both systems likely to be badly screwed by bad contacts, corrosion, water ingress etc. Replacement of the dubious items appears to have fixed it for both of us. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,195 #27 Posted March 25, 2021 Isolating the circuits I usually do with markers in several colors. The switching sequence of all the micro-switches with relation to the components involved were all fine. (The Wire Harness has an issue I suspect around in the pink circuit, directly related to the parking brake +) I have a decal to place over the control sections to list Seat on top and Parking right below it. This will do for now as it'll function that way, the Seat light I could care less I will track down a harness and put it in the "to do box" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Damien Walker 246 #28 Posted March 25, 2021 47 minutes ago, oldman said: Isolating the circuits I usually do with markers in several colors. The switching sequence of all the micro-switches with relation to the components involved were all fine. (The Wire Harness has an issue I suspect around in the pink circuit, directly related to the parking brake +) I have a decal to place over the control sections to list Seat on top and Parking right below it. This will do for now as it'll function that way, the Seat light I could care less I will track down a harness and put it in the "to do box" Other than the connector issues I have mentioned, my harness appears generally ok, though I have noticed with a few of the wires, the copper has turned black. This caused by the copper oxidising but the cause is debated as I recall. Heat can cause it, but I would have thought oxidation is unlikely inside an insulating sleeve. I reckon it's probably chemical caused by a reaction with the insulation. Anyone out there know? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,195 #29 Posted March 25, 2021 I do know that poor conductivity can lead to an ark, over time, if left loose, the ark gets worse. This causes a lot of issues and I’ve seen blackened wires. I’ve had entire start circuits fry as a result of bad components, example being (faulty ammeter) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KAA 1973 71 #30 Posted March 25, 2021 18 hours ago, gwest_ca said: What model and year is this tractor? Looks like the black wires with white stripes are piggy-backed on the tan and a wire that is badly faded on the ignition pto switch. There are double wires on the models with battery ignition to control the circuit board. Garry 1989 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,119 #31 Posted March 25, 2021 Looks like faded insulation colors is a problem Share this post Link to post Share on other sites