Achto 27,509 #26 Posted March 22, 2021 2 hours ago, Gregor said: But I don't know what the law says. Looks like IL requires brakes on trailers above 3000lb GVW. https://codes.findlaw.com/il/chapter-625-vehicles/il-st-sect-625-5-12-301.html 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #27 Posted March 25, 2021 I am still fighting the wiring on this truck. I think I have the brakes figured out, and have a controller on order. But I have no tail/running lights. I did years ago, when I was pulling my boat, but I loss them some how. I have checked all fuses, and relays, pertaining to trailer lights. They are all good. In this 7 pin plug, there are 7 wires of course; Right turn (brown) Left turn (red) Brake (blue) Aux or back up (yellow center pin) Ground (white) 12VDC (Black) I believe this wire keeps the battery on the trailer charged. Hot when the key is on Tail/running lights (green) This is the one with no power What I am contemplating is this. Cutting the green wire back a few inches from the plug. Tapping into the Black wire,(which is ALWAYS hot) and connecting to the green. I know that this will have my tail/running lights on, any time the truck is on, and the trailer hooked up. I am OK with that. I am wondering if adding the load of the 2 tail lights, and 9 clearance lights, will the 12 V still keep the battery charged. I plan to switch all the bulb on the trailer to LED, which should decrease the load, considerably. Another option in simply going back to the old days, and tapping into one of the trucks tail lights, and power the running lights on the camper that way. Your Thoughts? Thanks Greg P.S. I have to get this figured out by June 25 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,199 #28 Posted March 25, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Gregor said: still fighting Anything in these threads help? https://www.titantalk.com/threads/trailer-running-lights-2012-titan.157525/ https://www.titantalk.com/threads/2010-t-all-trailer-lights-except-for-running-lights-work.148530/ Edited March 25, 2021 by Jeff-C175 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #29 Posted March 25, 2021 I have checked all fuses pertaining to the trailer lights, but I haven't much to do today, so, I may bring the truck back in and recheck. I have nothing to lose. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,199 #30 Posted March 25, 2021 8 minutes ago, Gregor said: checked all fuses pertaining to the trailer lights Even that one in the relatively inaccessible fuse box up under the cowl on the passenger side? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,509 #31 Posted March 25, 2021 Not sure how Nissan did their color coding. Usually brown is tail light, green (ditch) is right directional, yellow (center line) is left directional, blue is trailer brakes. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #32 Posted March 25, 2021 2 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said: Even that one in the relatively inaccessible fuse box up under the cowl on the passenger side? I did NOW! I didn't even see those before. 28 more fuses. How many fuses can one vehicle have? Relatively inaccessible is putting it mildly. Thank God and Matco for my 11" needle nose pliers. F4, 10 amp fuse was blown. Replaced it, I now have power to the plug. all for your help. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,199 #33 Posted March 25, 2021 21 minutes ago, Gregor said: Relatively inaccessible is putting it mildly You're welcome! I love my long needle nose too, but don't try to 'twist' anything with them! Only grabbing and pulling... no twisting! (they WILL break!) So maybe you don't want to know about the two that are hidden and undocumented under the dash by the steering column, hidden behind another wire harness? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #34 Posted March 25, 2021 LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #35 Posted April 2, 2021 Still messin' with my trailer brakes. I have the brake controller installed. Prodigy P2. According to the Prodigy P2 set up instructions, I need to adjust the output of the controller, to the point, that it will actually lock up my trailers brakes, at 25MPH. I tried, it won't. Called Prodigy. They said the brakes on my trailer needed to be adjusted, or replaced. I pulled the hubs to inspect them, and the shoes look fine. I did adjust them up to the point where the is slight drag, on a jacked up, free spinning tire. Tried again. I have the Prodigy P2 adjusted as high as it will go. While it will definitely slow the truck down, it's never going to lock up the brakes. I have a full 12V coming out of the 7 pin plug for brakes. Maybe, once gain, I am worried about nothing. The trailer is 2800 # dry. I don't think my truck will have any trouble stopping it, I just like to have things working as they are suppose to work. Any trailer brake experts out there? Any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,509 #36 Posted April 2, 2021 I'm not familiar with the auto sensing set up on the Prodigy P2. When you push the manual brake lever on the controller, does it go to full brake right away or does it progress to full brake? Either way, I would think that the tires would be easy to lock up on that light of a trailer. It also looks like the mounting position of the controller is important in order for it to work properly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #37 Posted April 2, 2021 I can slide it fast or slow. It's never going to lock up the brakes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,038 #38 Posted April 2, 2021 Could be weak magnets. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #39 Posted April 2, 2021 12 minutes ago, squonk said: Could be weak magnets. I guess so. But the camper is on 3 years old. Anything is possible though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,302 #40 Posted April 2, 2021 When you tested the voltage, did you do it with the trailer unplugged? The 12 volts mean nothing with no load. A better test is to check the amp draw which should be about 8 amps per axle. Magnets should have a resistance of about 3.5 ohms or half that if testing both magnets on an axle at the same time. Many trailers have inadequate brake wiring causing considerable voltage drop at the magnets, consider using at least 10 gauge from the plug to the magnets for both the power and ground. You should check the voltage by probing the wire at the magnet connection before going to the trouble of rewiring. If the wire passes thru the axle, it is difficult to run heavier wires inside and it is only trouble anyway because of insulation wear and shorts, just cut it and run the wires outside. In addition to electrical problems, know that electric brakes need up to a thousand miles to get the brake shoes bedded in and full braking power is realized. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #41 Posted April 3, 2021 35 minutes ago, lynnmor said: A better test is to check the amp draw which should be about 8 amps per axle. I'll try that. Thanks 36 minutes ago, lynnmor said: need up to a thousand miles to get the brake shoes bedded in I seriously doubt it has that many miles on it. The previous owner often pulled it with his dads truck, which didn't have trailer brakes, wired in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,803 #42 Posted April 3, 2021 On 3/25/2021 at 7:09 AM, Gregor said: I have to get this figured out by June 25 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #43 Posted April 4, 2021 (edited) Oops Edited April 4, 2021 by seuadr I don't read so good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites