1054 loader build

[ricksrj58 273]

Started to install the loader I bought and did not like the way it was mounted or made.here is what I have done so far. 3x3 tube for the uprights and they will be hydraulic tanks,4 inch channel bolted to the frame.

[953 nut 55,112]

49 minutes ago, ricksrj58 said:

4 inch channel bolted to the frame.

You need a substantial sub-frame that will transfer the weight and forces to your axles. Bolting the crossmember to the frame will result in a bent frame.

I will take some pictures of the subframe on my GT-14 tomorrow and post them.

[roadapples 6,983]

Won't  that be a lot of strain on the tractor frame? All I've seen had a sub frame. Just wondering...

    Richard types faster than me

Edited March 22, 2021 by roadapples

[Pullstart 62,807]

I’d say that’s a good start, but far from strong enough as Richard and Jay have mentioned.  Keep going! 

[TJ5208 1,824]

You lift a load it bend completely down that will be something nice job and good luck

[Tractorhead 9,064]

I love constructions, even constructions of FEL‘s because i built 2 FEL myself,

but please accept the advices you get from the fellas here and work urgently with a Subframe.

I built my first FEL on a 212 - yes a Sheet Metal machine and nobody believes this would work.

 

It did, but it also give me a heavy wear on the Frontaxle, because i didn‘t work with a Counterweight.

for simple and easy tasks it may be useful, but if you have a loader, you be use it as a loader.

- trust me, i know where i‘m talking about.

 

I doubt the frame itself will bent that fast depending on used load,

but the Screws they hold your Rearaxle together with the Frame will quit quickly.

This tractas are definitely well built, but they be not built for such on top loads.

 

you also bring the load 2:1 or maybe more directly to your Frontaxle.

That means if you pick up a load with 30 Kilos, 60 Kilos will last on your Frontaxle.

The result is a quick wear on frontaxle followed by hard steering because of the wear and load.

 

With a Subframe you be able to reduce that load on the front axle,

especially when it go behind the rearaxle with a Counterweight box,

so you be able to reduce a lot of the load from the frontaxle more to the Rear.

 

this loadbalancing can be made so much easier and you have more fun with it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[953 nut 55,112]

21 hours ago, 953 nut said:

I will take some pictures of the subframe on my GT-14 tomorrow and post them.

The transmission is out of my GT-14 so you can get a good look at the rear of the subframe. The rear portion of the subframe attaches to both rear axle housings and the front of the frame. The front portion of the subframe attaches to the front of the frame and is tied into the uprights of the loader. The portion of the frame that is parallel to the frame are angle iron 2.5 X 2 -1/4" thick (heavier than your 1054's frame. The cross beam is 3 X 2.5 - !/4 wall tubing.

Your 1054 frame has four holes (two on each side) that would be ideal for mounting the front portion.

The forces applied to the subframe are transferred to the front and rear axles without compromising the integrity of the tractor frame.

How you attach your loader is up to you, we are just attempting to save you from having a twisted frame.

 

[ricksrj58 273]

Thank you for confirming my thoughts,we figured we might have to connect it to the rear axle and I did start to fab up a front mount already. The pics are great,thank you. 

[ricksrj58 273]

Have not made any real progress yet other than making tabs and pins for the loader arms and cylinders

[ricksrj58 273]

I am thinking because my tractor has only the original hitch,I will extend the subframe back past the tranny and set the weight box on it and also clamp it to the axle tubes with the sub frame clamps.