Stripping and painting

[Gregor 4,846]

Let's talk about painting. Again. I have quite a collection of parts to take to the stripper. I don't know much about this process, other than they bake everything (pretty hot I think), dip it in a solution of some kind, and rinse. Nothing is rusted deep. I am not afraid of losing any metal. I am wondering about the gas tank. Is this process a problem for the tank? I wouldn't think so, but I don't know for sure.

 

I hate to take the parts now, and have them sit for possibly weeks, waiting for the weather to get better. I don't want to do it, but I will turn my garage into a paint booth.......again. It is heated of course. I can roast a chicken in here if I want to. If it's damp and wet outside, will my heating the garage bring the humidity in here down to a doable level, or do I need a dehumidifier for that?  Thanks  Greg

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Not sure what the word/character limit is per reply but a full answer could exceed it.

 

Rust, dirt, grease, oil, silicones and lack of sanding/scuffing will ruin a paint job.

 

Coatings have a preferred temp/humidity range similar to your preferred range.

 

Wash well and then clean with solvents meant for paint prep.

Remove ALL rust, sand, grind, blast or electrolysis as needed.

No need to remove good paint/primer but the edges need to be feather edged and it might be easier to just remove all paint on small parts.

Clean again if there are any doubts, metal prep etch or use self etching primer.

Sanding primer will fill minor rust pits and sanding scratches.  Finish with 320-400.

Paint per label instructions.

 

Rust, and sheet metal work would take another reply. (or two, or three...)

 

I'd do one piece to practice, maybe the worst one and then we'd be here to help with any questions.  There's a ton of good info out there and on YouTube.  I love YouTube!

 

[Brockport Bill 1,668]

that's a great summary and detail Dennis - many thanks -- have some items at an auto body shop now but also doing some lesser items myself - terrific insights

[Brockport Bill 1,668]

is acetone or mineral spirits the correct approach for final cleaning? or do you suggest soap and water after one of those been used as cleaning agent?

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Most solvents are much better than no solvent, but might as well use something blended for paint prep.  Silicone waxes are especially problemsome.  Water and detergent to start but avoid water from there on unless a metal prep is going to be used.  Don't touch or contaminate in any way after cleaning or clean again, especially before priming again.  Not a bad idea just before painting unless you are certain it's clean.

[Brockport Bill 1,668]

you have used the term "solvent" for cleaning - or said "something blended" but for me a newbie could you be specific -- are acetone or mineral spirits ok and will they work - or what is the other item you suggest that's a solvent or something blended - and where do I get them? Thanks - your insights are super helpful

[squonk 41,155]

I've had good results stripping parts with white vinegar. I have a small plastic concrete mixing tub and pour about 4 gallons in it. It takes a while but the paint comes off. No nasty fumes. Garage smells like an Italian kitchen and I pour the left over vinegar on the burdock on the fence line! 

Edited March 19, 2021 by squonk

[squonk 41,155]

3 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said:

you have used the term "solvent" for cleaning - or said "something blended" but for me a newbie could you be specific -- are acetone or mineral spirits ok and will they work - or what is the other item you suggest that's a solvent or something blended - and where do I get them? Thanks - your insights are super helpful

Any auto parts store that sells paint will have the cleaning solvents

[Achto 27,605]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

If it's damp and wet outside, will my heating the garage bring the humidity in here down to a doable level, or do I need a dehumidifier for that? 

 

I prefer to heat the garage and paint when it is cold out side. My reason - I can adjust my dry times ( wait longer between coats if needed ) and there aren't any bugs that are going to fly into my wet paint & screw it up. If you can keep your garage 65 to 75 degrees with no more that 65% humidity, you will be fine. High humidity will slow dry times, but will not ruin a paint job. ( Unless you are spraying lacquer, which is almost impossible to get now days anyway )

 

A good practice for knowing when your paint is dry enough to recoat is to pick a spot that won't be seen after assembly & touch it. If the paint is sticky like tape but does not transfer color to your finger, then you are ready for another coat.

 

58 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said:

is acetone or mineral spirits the correct approach for final cleaning?

 

Acetone will work on bare metal but not to final clean any primed or painted surfaces. It will soften paint or primer. Mineral spirits is out all together as it leaves a residue. 

 

Duplicolor makes a wax & grease remover that works very well. Use it to wet a paper towel and wipe it on your part, then dry with a paper towel. I get it a O'Reilly's auto parts but here is a link so that you know what your looking for.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ECM543000-Single-Grease-Remover/dp/B00OF9M1XQ/ref=asc_df_B00OF9M1XQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241869369567&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1212894270333620866&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018899&hvtargid=pla-634273647096&psc=1

 

[pacer 3,173]

I "sand" blast everything (Black Diamond coal slag from TSC) Maybe 70-80% of parts inside the blast cabinet and large pieces outside in a grassy area and just let the 'sand' fall in the grass. This leaves a fine 'dust' on the piece/s which I wipe off with common mineral spirits from wally world (Acetone will evaporate very fast and is wasteful). When this 'flashes' off I apply a diluted coating of phosphoric acid, wiping this off with a lint free cloth - this stops the rust from returning. I then apply the paint........

 

This topic is sorta like "what red paint" "what kind of oil" -- there are many methods to apply paint and you'll just have to settle in on which sound good to you......

[Brockport Bill 1,668]

great info thanks

[Gregor 4,846]

16 minutes ago, Achto said:

I prefer to heat the garage and paint when it is cold out side. My reason - I can adjust my dry times ( wait longer between coats if needed ) and there aren't any bugs that are going to fly into my wet paint & screw it up. If you can keep your garage 65 to 75 degrees with no more that 65% humidity, you will be fine. High humidity will slow dry times, but will not ruin a paint job. ( Unless you are spraying lacquer, which is almost impossible to get now days anyway )

I like the idea of no bugs. Been there, done that.

I painted this with Lacquer from a can. BY FAR  The best finish I have ever got out of a rattle can.  Are you saying the humidity level for lacquer needs to be less than 65%?

 

Chinese Red from Menards. $3.50  2 coats of clear on top. 27 cans in stock at various stores within 40 miles of me.  I ALWAYS worry about humidity.

[seuadr 488]

1 minute ago, Gregor said:

I painted this with Lacquer from a can.

 

i came here, disappointed that there were no strippers, but you've redeemed the thread - damn that is a fine looking horse!

 

in all seriousness - i came here looking for stripping of paint as well, thanks for sharing!

[Achto 27,605]

2 minutes ago, Gregor said:

Are you saying the humidity level for lacquer needs to be less than 65%?

 

 Extreme humidity can make lacquer turn white & blotchy with poor gloss. I had this happen with black out of a gun on a hot humid day.

[Gregor 4,846]

After reading all this and thinking about it, I think maybe right now may be the very best time to paint. No bugs! The humidity outside right now is 59%. Not great but maybe not terrible???  I can run my heat up as high as I want, and I usually want a lot!

 

.   all for your help.

[pacer 3,173]

I'm really surprised that you can still get Lacquer!!! Years ago I LOVED to paint with it, and actually did a few really nice jobs. Best one was a 1959 Jaguar in GM's white I did for my wife ... that gal loved that car!!

 

It is a bit finicky about temp, humidity, viscosity, etc but as Gregor shows it can sure POP!

[Pullstart 62,912]

I’m just glad this is called “stripping and painting” and not “stripping then painting”!  I’d hate to get my skivvies all fumed up again!  

[JCM 9,177]

I will second what Dan   @Achto   said about wax and grease remover. I have used this type of product for over 20 years with great results.

[Gregor 4,846]

One more question about painting. I really like the finish of lacquer. Will it hold up to the heat of a single cylinder Kohler block and tin work? I tried google and got mixed results. They say do not paint a stove pipe.   Well, I wasn't going to paint the muffler. Just block and tin work.  Thanks  Greg

[Achto 27,605]

Personally I would not use lacquer at all. It does give a good finish but it is a lot of work to keep that finish. Lacquer is prone to fading and requires waxing to keep the shine. Single stage acrylic enamel is my paint of choice. Good gloss less up keep. If you are going to use lacquer it will be fine on the engine tins. Don't think that it will hold up on the cylinder fins of the block.

[Gregor 4,846]

7 minutes ago, Achto said:

Lacquer is prone to fading and requires waxing to keep the shine.

By the time that happens, it will be someone else's problem.

 

Thanks

[squonk 41,155]

I don't think  you can even buy lacquer anymore. It was being phased out over 18 years ago. Lacquer smells nice but is a PITA to keep nice. 

 

Another thought about painting now NO COTTON WOOD!  

[8ntruck 7,016]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

I don't think  you can even buy lacquer anymore. It was being phased out over 18 years ago. Lacquer smells nice but is a PITA to keep nice. 

 

Another thought about painting now NO COTTON WOOD!  

Unless you want a flocked finish!

[Gregor 4,846]

I took 42 pieces to the stripper. Everything from the hood and seat pan, to the front spindles, and rear hubs. We'll see how long that takes. More importantly how many $$$$$

[Crazyredhorse 295]

for stripping paint use aircraft paint stripper.get it at any auto paint shop.strong stuff gloves glasses a must comes in gallon cans.its a gel brush on let it strip hose off. 

Edited April 20, 2021 by Crazyredhorse