Seat Spring Customization

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

My seat wasn’t cutting it on support so I had added a set of later 5” Springs.

Well, then the seat pushed me forwards and very uncomfortable!

so I cut them down to 3”.

Edited March 16, 2021 by oldman

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Nice.  Why the plate?  And I trust the seat switch still works.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

15 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

Nice.  Why the plate?  And I trust the seat switch still works.

that's a rubber mat, "conveyor belt" to protect the metal under the old Springs.

The switch works, but I don't like it, can't run the engine while off the tractor, not good for tune-ups and stuff.

So, I unplugged it and put a loop of wire in, a "bypass".

[briankd 817]

10 minutes ago, oldman said:

The switch works, but I don't like it, can't run the engine while off the tractor, not good for tune-ups and stuff.

So, I unplugged it and put a loop of wire in, a "bypass"

yep I can't stand them switches I done away with all mine every time get off seat it dies. I'm the only one using it anyway . them dam green and yellow things have to push a button to even back up .

rewired whole tractor done away with clutch- pto- seat switches . my though if you don't have any common sense you shouldn't be operating  it anyway    

[lynnmor 7,308]

The seat switch shouldn't kill the engine if the PTO and motion levers are in the disengaged position, unless you have a model that is wired different than most.  Check your wiring diagram, you may be blaming the wrong switch.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

Yes, I went through the harness, it’s the switch doing what it is designed to do, kill the engine when open. The light representing the switch circuit has always stayed on, been all through the circuit, never solved that one yet!

 

Edited March 17, 2021 by oldman

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

1 hour ago, briankd said:

yep I can't stand them switches I done away with all mine every time get off seat it dies. I'm the only one using it anyway . them dam green and yellow things have to push a button to even back up .

rewired whole tractor done away with clutch- pto- seat switches . my though if you don't have any common sense you shouldn't be operating  it anyway    

Agreed

[Handy Don 12,237]

14 hours ago, oldman said:

Yes, I went through the harness, it’s the switch doing what it is designed to do, kill the engine when open. The light representing the switch circuit has always stayed on, been all through the circuit, never solved that one yet!

 

The usual setup is for the power to the coil to keep the motor running to be via either: 

1) a closed-when-disengaged PTO switch or 

2) a closed-when-seated seat switch or

3) BOTH at the same time!

 

I agree with @lynnmor that your problem might be that one side of the dual PTO switch isn't doing its job to keep the engine running while it is disengaged regardless of seat status.

[lynnmor 7,308]

I think he is working on a tractor with a magneto ignition, the safety switches and ignition are used to kill the engine by supplying a ground not to supply power to the coil.  Correct me if I am wrong.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

I think he is working on a tractor with a magneto ignition, the safety switches and ignition are used to kill the engine by supplying a ground not to supply power to the coil.  Correct me if I am wrong.

Yes, it’s a magneto, no coil. The seat switch will send the spark to ground if weight lifts off the switch.

The switch goes bad quickly as the seat & plunger become at odds, misaligned and wears the switch down. Then raising the switch to make contact enough eventually destroys the switch.

So a jumper is put into the seat switch circuit. That sends the seat light warning circuit to ground and screws up the on board circuitry!

Add in the remaining and excessive safety switches and it becomes a nightmare!

The on board circuit cannot be removed as the spark will just ground out and she won’t run!

Wonderful set up!

I imagine the whole pile of “safety crap” can be totally bypassed to allow the spark to fire accordingly?

However, I have spark and can redirect the brake light circuit to utilize the no longer needed seat  warning light. Without the jumper in the seat switch circuit the parking brake warning light will remain on full time! hence the bypass to turn off the brake warning light, it’s a catch 22!

Other option is another new seat switch and little motherboard to fire the warning lights. Rare and expensive!

Right now I can just swap the lettering on the parking brake and seat switch with a small decal overlay.

So, having a small decal made to do the labeling swap 

 

 

 

 

Here is the label, notice the parking brake lettering on top and seat switch lettering just below it?

Swap those with a matching decal overlay.

 

(The constant parking brake light if jumper is left out of the circuit now missing the seat switch)

 

The seat warning light with the worn seat switch in the plug/harness and the circuit run to ground by the switch, no engine spark.

 

The same two lights with the seat switch in the plug/harness and the parking brake on.

 

This why I want to keep the jumper/bypass in the seat switch circuit to cancel the parking brake light. Then the seat switch warning light will still activate whenever the parking brake is used.

One problem solved (constant brake light)

Second problem solved (functioning brake light circuit via the seat warning light) 

This whole nightmare has been discussed repeatedly on the forum. I have another post going on the whole circuit (312-8 seat switch) but just thought to enter it in here too.

I like the circuit board working even if only "rigged" as all the other warning lights work correctly. Otherwise would just bypass the whole mess!

Edited March 17, 2021 by oldman

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

20 hours ago, lynnmor said:

The seat switch shouldn't kill the engine if the PTO and motion levers are in the disengaged position, unless you have a model that is wired different than most.  Check your wiring diagram, you may be blaming the wrong switch.

Right now just want the circuit salvaged enough to be functional and no hassle with the poorly engineered seat switch, nor the possibility of a failing PTO switch not permitting the run circuit to the seat circuit.