seuadr 488 #1 Posted March 15, 2021 this is kind of horse related and you guys are by far the most responsive and knowledgeable group i frequent so i'm going to ask here: I have a K301 from a different (but still red?) tractor maker - it has the "wide" K301. i have a thread about it in the "other brands" section - long to the short is, it exploded after someone "rebuilt it" and likely put the oil hole on the wrong side. unfortunately, it also took a chunk of the cylinder out with it. now - i know that the larger K series motors are pretty popular for horses, and what i'm hoping for is the possibility of swapping a block from a different source (like maybe a horse?) and rebuilding - but the crank in question is larger in diameter than "normal" and i know next to nothing about rebuilding. does the diameter of the external part of the crank matter for block size? like do i need a different bearing plate or something? perhaps i could pull that off the old block? i'm assuming at this point i can/will need to reuse the current crank in the new block (i'm going to have to find a machine ship to check it out, cause, i don't really know what i'm looking at) is this a thing? am i even asking the right question? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R. L. Addison 299 #2 Posted March 15, 2021 Kohler engines have three numbers that may be significant in identifying the features of the engine. 1. model number - K identifies engine series 30 thirty cubic inches, 1 number of cylinders Suffix numbers are very important, A determines a smaller base that is different from an engine that may have a bigger base, (undesignated) example K301, K301S (starter), K 301AS (small base & starter), K301AQS (Q designating quiet pkg. , whatever that consists of, part of it being balance gears). 2. serial number This could give a hint of time built and may or may not be important. 3. spec. (specification) number - This number also gives detail information for parts, crankshaft (pto) details, gear reduction unit, fuel type, (gasoline propane etc.) ignition and information for parts. The only difference determining the interchangability is whether it is a small base block or large. the rod splash dipper is shorter than the big base engine and could be a disaster id they are mixed. As far as using your old crankshaft, it will depend on three things, condition, condition, condition. Wheel Horse used 1" & 1 1/8 pto crankshaft diameters, but you would have to have the correct end for your purpose. Depending on how big the missing piece of the cylinder is I have seen them run with small pieces missing. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #3 Posted March 15, 2021 R.L., thanks for the info! i have: model number: K301S spec number: 47601D interestingly enough, i think that the gravely shaft is also 1 1/8th, but is like a 3" shaft. I had the long dipper with the big pan. i'm not so sure on reusing the block - there is about an 1 1/2" chunk missing: someone suggested that i consider having it sleeved, but, by the time i get it to a machine shop, get them to sleeve it, then buy the rebuild kit and have the crank checked/turned i'm in repower money territory and that is a tough call. on the other hand, if i can find a block that is good and within spec i would still need the crank checked but maybe i could get away with new rings, piston and rod? might be a bit cheaper. i dunno. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,328 #4 Posted March 15, 2021 2 hours ago, seuadr said: does the diameter of the external part of the crank matter for block size? like do i need a different bearing plate or something? Crankshaft beatings will be the same for all 301s. Having the cylinder sleeved would be more than twice what it cost having another block bored. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 887 #5 Posted March 16, 2021 I was going to have mine sleeved back to standard but he would not do it because of the broken out piece on the bottom of the cylinder. Afraid more would break off when the sleeve is pressed in. Another machinist may have another opinion. Went .040 over and is still runnming with the chunk gone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #6 Posted March 16, 2021 Wow, how big a chunk? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 887 #7 Posted March 16, 2021 Looks somewhat similar to what your picture shows. It has had that chunk gone since the mid 80's and was used farily heavily back then. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #8 Posted March 16, 2021 huh. i wouldn't have guessed that was an option. guess i should find a machinist around here to check it out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites