seuadr 488 #76 Posted April 3, 2021 Hood clearance might be tight.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #77 Posted April 3, 2021 ok. well, now i have the demystification wiring diagram in hand and it is time to go figure out the wires! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #78 Posted April 4, 2021 Decided to add a pop of color to the air cleaner housing. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #79 Posted April 4, 2021 So i installed the foot control kit: But it fits! Even lined up with the existing holes! Muffler clearance is snug Tins mostly fitted in place PTO sits at the same spacing/height Working out the wiring, routing and hooking up, etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #80 Posted April 10, 2021 All back together, except yhe remote filter mount (probably going somewhere under the frame like on the snow chucker) Definitely snug! Think I may need to slide the hood forward a half inch or so ultimately. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #81 Posted April 11, 2021 Finally settled on a location for the remote filter: If i measured correctly i should clear my winter chains by an inch: If they don't there is enough room for me to fashion a guard. In fact, i may do that anyhow - i kind of like that idea. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #82 Posted April 11, 2021 well, i got her to fire over, but there is a safety that is out somewhere, as i am not getting spark unless i run the line directly to the coil (which of course means i can't shut it off!) the relay with the yellow wire to the coil it seems ok - the coil side is showing 40 ohms, but the relay isn't closing hence no spark. looking at the 520's schematic it looks like neutral, seat and pto switch are in the circuit for the coil on that relay (brown wire) the neutral switch is closing when it should, i get continuity from it when i click it in place and lose it when i move it back out of place - the seat switch has not been hooked up since long before i got the tractor so i'm guessing that i need to check the PTO switch. the cylinder head temp switch looks like it runs to the idiot lights, but, i don't see it going anywhere else - unless it provides ground for all of the relays? anybody know on that one? i could pretty easily try grounding that line out to the engine and see if that is the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,244 #83 Posted April 11, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, seuadr said: the cylinder head temp switch looks like it runs to the idiot lights, but, i don't see it going anywhere else - unless it provides ground for all of the relays? anybody know on that one? i could pretty easily try grounding that line out to the engine and see if that is the problem Yes, indicators only for these. I'd start at the neutral detect switch & wiring (as you did) and then the "start" side of the PTO switch and wiring. Those are there to prevent start of a tractor that is "in gear" or has PTO engaged. Edited April 11, 2021 by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,244 #84 Posted April 11, 2021 21 hours ago, seuadr said: I agree on the snug fit! Red on the inner flywheel screen is a cool idea. May copy that next time I open up my P218! Isn't that the oil dipstick/fill tube hiding under the front-side muffler? Guess you will be waiting for a cool tractor before checking the oil (or wearing welding gloves)! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #85 Posted April 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: I agree on the snug fit! Red on the inner flywheel screen is a cool idea. May copy that next time I open up my P218! Isn't that the oil dipstick/fill tube hiding under the front-side muffler? Guess you will be waiting for a cool tractor before checking the oil (or wearing welding gloves)! yeah, it is :/ i had to orient it that way as the starter is on the opposite corner. seems kind of odd, but, at least with the pressure cutoff switch i know i won't run it out of oil i guess? on the bright side, the oil safety works the way i'd hoped it would - even with the start/kill circuit bypassed by powering straight to the coil, there was no spark at the points for several turns of the motor. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #86 Posted April 12, 2021 so my dumbass didn't reconnect the red line from the R/R to the ignition. because of the cobbled wiring, some of the things i expected to have power did, and some didn't - hurray frankenwiring! both that solved, she runs! Ran it for 5 mins and changed the oil and filter, next i plan on buttoning it up belts and covers are still off) and then pulling it outside to run for probably an hour or so and then i'll do it again. one of the things i noticed is that the rear muffler is noticeably cooler than the front - that'll be the next thing i need to check in to - i'm not sure if it is an ignition issue (the plugs and wires are new, but the coil is not) so i'll swap wires on the coil and see if the front muffler is now cooler - if not, i guess i need to dig into why it might be running cooler, and/or if that is a problem? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
