seuadr 488 #1 Posted March 12, 2021 Hey all - this year my drive isn't being used much because everyone is working from home - so, it went to mush a lot faster than it normally does. I decided to finally get the grader blade out and give it a go. the problem i am running into, is that when it starts to dig in, it will lift the front wheels right off the ground, which gives me the initial reaction of "i should put some weights on the front end" but i was wondering, should i accept that this is a limitation? is putting weights on the front to weigh it down going to mask when i'm trying to hard, or should i accept that the rear wheels will likely break loose before something in the frame does? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,163 #2 Posted March 12, 2021 23 minutes ago, seuadr said: Hey all - this year my drive isn't being used much because everyone is working from home - so, it went to mush a lot faster than it normally does. I decided to finally get the grader blade out and give it a go. the problem i am running into, is that when it starts to dig in, it will lift the front wheels right off the ground, which gives me the initial reaction of "i should put some weights on the front end" but i was wondering, should i accept that this is a limitation? is putting weights on the front to weigh it down going to mask when i'm trying to hard, or should i accept that the rear wheels will likely break loose before something in the frame does? Please help us out here. Mid-mount attached or rear axle attached? (or is this a front plow?) Manual lift or hydro lift? Attached via chain or with solid link. Pictures would help a lot! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #3 Posted March 13, 2021 (edited) 4 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Please help us out here. Mid-mount attached or rear axle attached? (or is this a front plow?) Manual lift or hydro lift? Attached via chain or with solid link. Pictures would help a lot! solid link, mid mount. hydro lift (it is 520H) it is the smaller, 40" one like this guy: works fine, but if it starts to bite in, the front end will start to lift when i'm going forward instead of it continuing to bite. i'm wondering if i am digging in too far. it is dark now but i can try and get some action shots tomorrow? Edited March 13, 2021 by seuadr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #4 Posted March 13, 2021 28 minutes ago, seuadr said: solid link, mid mount. hydro lift (it is 520H) it is the smaller, 40" one like this guy: works fine, but if it starts to bite in, the front end will start to lift when i'm going forward instead of it continuing to bite. i'm wondering if i am digging in too far. it is dark now but i can try and get some action shots tomorrow? Hydro lift/solid link is the biggest issue I would say, the guys with manual lift have the advantage using their arm for "down" pressure or to let it float, unless you use the mower lift arm or a chain it will continue to lift the front end off the ground a its not "floating". JMO. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #5 Posted March 13, 2021 Don't get me wrong, it works well, i am just wondering if i could add weight to the front to help it bite better, or if that is a bad idea (is the front lifting essentially a sign that i need to ease off and be more patient?) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #6 Posted March 13, 2021 1 minute ago, seuadr said: (is the front lifting essentially a sign that i need to ease off and be more patient?) I believe so, but you may try adding a bracket and weights like I did for clevis hitch attachments/furrow plowing 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #7 Posted March 13, 2021 That is exactly what i was looking at. I think my wheels should break loose before something breaks on yhe tractor but I don't know what kind of abuse that'll give the rock shaft and I don't want to damage it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,163 #8 Posted March 13, 2021 19 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said: Hydro lift/solid link is the biggest issue I would say, the guys with manual lift have the advantage using their arm for "down" pressure or to let it float, unless you use the mower lift arm or a chain it will continue to lift the front end off the ground a its not "floating". JMO. Agree. Alternatives are to go to chains, as @WVHillbilly520H noted, or to put slots in the lift link so the blade can float (if you finesse the control to stop it where you want) a bit but only in a certain range, say 2"? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #9 Posted March 13, 2021 Oh i kinda like the idea of a slot. I'll have to think on that one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,108 #10 Posted March 13, 2021 11 hours ago, seuadr said: i'm wondering if i am digging in too far. I have used the solid link on the mid-mount grader blade and hydro lift making several passes. Running with the blade turned to the right or left so the material isn't accumulating helps too. Hit the high spots first, next pass cut an inch deeper and so on. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 8,670 #11 Posted March 13, 2021 I run front and rear wheel weights on a Work Horse GT-1800 with 50” mid mount blade and it works like a champ. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,807 #12 Posted March 13, 2021 I think you’ll lose traction long before you break something. If something were to become damaged, I know of a welder within about an hour of ya if ever needed! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #13 Posted March 14, 2021 alright all, thanks for the input, guess i'll just keep on keepin on! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
