Gregor 4,846 #26 Posted March 12, 2021 10 hours ago, Old312-8 said: I know what did it, it was the fuel diaphram arm. Dropped the pan to find the arm, got the arm and the dipper. I’ll pull the rod and piston tomorrow, I’m doing a carburetor as well. Another vote for electric fuel pump. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,155 #27 Posted March 12, 2021 Those dippers break off more than you think. Dye check or magna-flux every rod you pull out of an Kohler. You'd be scared to use the rod again. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,321 #28 Posted March 12, 2021 12 minutes ago, squonk said: magna-flux every rod you pull out of an Kohler. The rods are aluminum Mike, can't be magna fluxed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,155 #29 Posted March 12, 2021 13 minutes ago, 953 nut said: The rods are aluminum Mike, can't be magna fluxed. That's why I said dye checked too 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,336 #30 Posted March 12, 2021 11 hours ago, 8ntruck said: Yup. But when you get it set right, you will have less in that Wheel Horse than in a new box store machine. You will have a whole lot more tractor than a new box store tractor too. I work on Cubs every day and I wouldn't give you a penny for each one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,336 #31 Posted March 12, 2021 (edited) The word stamped out is used alot! Edited March 12, 2021 by The Tuul Crib Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,336 #32 Posted March 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Gregor said: Another vote for electric fuel pump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,828 #33 Posted March 12, 2021 1 hour ago, squonk said: Those dippers break off more than you think. Yah but why is what I don't get? Just bad castings? Guys running concrete in the pan? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,155 #34 Posted March 12, 2021 Hairline cracks right out of the foundry, Casting flaws, Porous and contaminated aluminum. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #35 Posted March 12, 2021 I wish Kohler had used oil slingers like the ones found in the Briggs 320000 series iron block motors! It's a steel piece that is held to the rod end cap with the two connecting rod bolts. FYI Zach Kerber makes a billet rod with a screw in oil slinger and replaceable insert bearings. That might be a nice upgrade during a rebuild. Bill 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,828 #36 Posted March 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Bill D said: I wish Kohler had used oil slingers like the ones found in the Briggs 320000 series iron block motors! It's a steel piece that is held to the rod end cap with the two connecting rod bolts. FYI Zach Kerber makes a billet rod with a screw in oil slinger and replaceable insert bearings. That might be a nice upgrade during a rebuild. Bill Interesting to know if one is building a hi perf. or pulling motor. @Greentored 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old312-8 11 #37 Posted March 13, 2021 I tore down the engine today. 2 questions. Do these have rod bearings? If so, they were non-existent. If the factory rod fit just fine do I get a standard or +10? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #38 Posted March 13, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, Bill D said: I wish Kohler had used oil slingers like the ones found in the Briggs 320000 series iron block motors! It's a steel piece that is held to the rod end cap with the two connecting rod bolts. My 7 HP Tecumseh also had an oil slinger bolted to the rod. I don't believe there are any bearings on the rod. As far as size goes, there is really no way to know for sure without measuring it. You say it's a very low hour motor, so I would guess it is standard. But guessing on something like this, is a really bad idea. BTW what happened to those pics? Edited March 13, 2021 by Gregor 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old312-8 11 #39 Posted March 13, 2021 I found a few of em online, I’ll buy a standard to put on, and a +10 for emergencies. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,321 #40 Posted March 13, 2021 26 minutes ago, Old312-8 said: I tore down the engine today. 2 questions. Do these have rod bearings? If so, they were non-existent. If the factory rod fit just fine do I get a standard or +10? Don't buy any parts until your machine shop tells you what you need. Get a stick of GREEN Plastigage to see how the old rod was fitting. Chances are the old rod was standard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old312-8 11 #41 Posted March 13, 2021 The rod was standard, and it fit pretty snugly. No play at all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old312-8 11 #42 Posted March 13, 2021 It was just the slinger that broke, and at 200 hours, the rod couldn’t have worn that much. I won’t need any further than a +0.10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seuadr 488 #43 Posted March 16, 2021 On 3/12/2021 at 7:05 PM, Old312-8 said: I tore down the engine today. 2 questions. Do these have rod bearings? If so, they were non-existent. If the factory rod fit just fine do I get a standard or +10? Nope, they count on thr rod being aluminum and an oil hole. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,214 #44 Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) On 3/12/2021 at 6:23 PM, WHX24 said: Interesting to know if one is building a hi perf. or pulling motor. @Greentored That was a serious consideration when I built the engine in Hoss, but kept the oem rod since I only buzz it to 4000. The inserts are a GREAT idea, and there are guys who can machine the oem rods out for use in them. As for the dippers, yes, the steel bolt on dippers Briggs uses would seem to be a lot more trustworthy. Seems I remember someone making a billet rod for the 5hp Briggs- it actually had a small hole drilled in the dipper and a tiny 'scoop' carved into it to actually force oil to the rod journal. THAT, along with an actual insert, would pretty much end these 'busted rod' issues, as 99% of the time it is due to lack of lube and a binding big end. Edited March 16, 2021 by Greentored 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,764 #45 Posted March 21, 2021 Maybe, when you lost the fuel arm, it got stuck under the oil flipper when you ran the engine. That is all it would take. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites